Tried that. Test light lights up and whatnot- no spark. Well, nothing consistent or full if at all- I say that because it definitely felt like I heard some combustion going on while cranking once, maybe twice. But I've yet to see spark from the coil with my own eyes when testing.
Some tips from the Pertronix site: The position in which the Ignitor red wire is attached to is not supplying sufficient voltage. The air gap between the module and magnet sleeve is too great. The ground wire inside the distributor is not connected. The wire connections are not tight. The polarity is not correct.
I have been running Pertronix in my roadster for six years trouble free. Recently installed in my coupe without any trouble. I always suggest using the Pertronix Coil and do not run a ballast resister.
FYI, found this on the net, it might help. Keeping in mind a Pertonix Igniter just replaces a points set, and the coil still functions the same due to a collapsing magnetic field, I.e. the current thru the Igniter is interupted. So you can test the Igniter to see if it is functioning. " Remove the distributor cap without removing the plug wires to gain access to the PeTronix parts. Connect one end of a 36-inch jumper wire to the battery negative terminal. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to the Ignitor module base plate. Inspect the Ignitor wiring connections and look for damage. Pay particular attention to the ground wire inside the distributor for proper connection. Repair or replace any improperly connected or damaged wires. Unplug the red Ignitor module wire. Connect the red Ignitor module lead to the battery positive terminal using a jumper wire if required. Attach the black lead of the multimeter to the Ignitor module black wire. Attach the red lead of the multimeter to the battery positive terminal. Rotate the center magnetic sleeve of the distributor shaft by hand or by cranking the engine. The multimeter should show a fluctuation between battery voltage and zero volts. A constant voltage reading indicates a failed module or improperly installed Hall Effect shutter wheel. Measure the clearance between the center magnetic sleeve and the Hall Effect shutter wheel using a .030-inch brass feeler gauge. If the clearance is greater than .030 inches, the shutter wheel must be adjusted. Loosen the shutter wheel mount using a flat-head screwdriver and reposition the wheel to a .030-inch air gap. Tighten the hold down screws and double check the clearance. Repeat Step Three after adjustments have been made. Disconnect and remove the digital multimeter. Disconnect and remove all jumper wires. Connect the Ignitor leads in their original locations. Install the distributor cap and fasten it down securely."
The Perty model 1168ls doesnt have air gaps or shutter wheels or magnet sleeves. One question I have, however, is with the ground wire inside the distributor. I do not have one. I did just clean the metal inside the dist. housing where the breaker plate screws (for the dist cap metal snap straps) go through. I also ran a ground wire from the metal distributor body to the block.
Where is the shutter wheel or whatever is supposed to pass the window on the module? I don't have one in hand, but some part may be missing, unless, you already slid it over the shaft that activates the points. Blues4U test uses the wires you have, testing connected to black. All points do is ground coil to block/bat - intermittently. The P module does the same thing electronically when some type of wheel passes in front of window on module. Is the window hidden under the white label w/numbers? Like I said, I do not have one in hand to compare.
The diagnostic procedure I posted above should work with your unit. On that model the system is triggered by the lobes on the distributor cam. It works by opening and closing the primary circuit through the coil to ground. When it's closed the coil saturates, when it opens the field collapses and induces a spark in the secondary side of the coil. The testing procedure I posted should show whether it is doing that or not.
Where's the magnetic pickup that slips over the point cam? You say it doesn't have one, is that right? edit: "a magnet sleeve is not required with the lobe sense ignitor" Pretty fancy!
I'll check it out when I get home - I've also got an HEI on the way. If Summit gets back to me- and the Ptronix is dead- I'll be returning it (and the coil) and using the HEI. Either way, Summit price gauged the F out of me and I didn't even realize it
Bummer it ain’t working.. I’ve loved every pertronix kit I’ve ever used, and really like there distributors. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Did you see/check this? You listed 1.4 ohm coil early on. Several have mentioned having the right coil for the Pertronix you have.
I forgot to ask what the voltage at the battery is. Beginning to sound like key is not getting full voltage.
Hate to ask, but is the little button still intact in your distributor cap? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Are the key switch and starter button new? Are they rated to carry the amperage/load that are connected to them? I had a couple ignition switches go bad from carrying too large of a load. Since reducing the load, I've not had switch problems. Phil
In your first post, you said you had a Pertronix Ignitor II, but the part number you gave is an Ignitor I (91168LS=Ignitor II / 1168LS=Ignitor I). Those are very different from the Ignitor II. You need to make sure that when the car is not running that there isn't any power going thru the unit. It does not have a safety shut off like the Ignitor II unit. Also, you might be running the wrong coil. Check this out from Pertronix: http://www.pertronix.com/support/tips/ You need to run at least 1.5 ohm coil or more or a mixture of that with a balast resistor. You probably burned up the unit. I used the Lobe Sensing style before. I don't really like them. I burned mine up too and I had the Ignitor II. Talk to Pertronix, they might let you exchange it. They did for me at least. It took a week or so.
The Jalopy Journal
