If you have cowl steering,fess up...

Do any of you actually drive your cars? If so, tell me how they 'really drive'. On paper, these should be crap to drive (bump steer). I see old pictures with cowl steer, but its on race cars that wouldn't encounter many bumps. Not to be rude, but if you've never had cowl steering, I'm not really interested in what you think it might be like, sorry.

 

As with anything else, if set-up properly they DO drive fine.

The key is making the draglink the same length as the suspension locator (split wishbones, hair pins etc.) also having them as parrallel as possible.

When the suspension articulates the suspension & steering draglink should tavel in the same arc (being the same length). If the lengths of the arcs are different one travels faster than the other and the difference is felt in the steering wheel (bumpsteer).

I've ran a Schroeder box for 2 yrs with NO bumpsteer. The draglink & split wishbone are within 1/2" of each other. With a realistic suspension travel of about 3" there is nothing noticable in the steering wheel. My only drawback is that the box is 8:1 which makes steering standing still a bit hard but once rolling it steers like a slot car.

 

Here are a few pics of my setup. If your ever near take it for a spin and see for yourself!

 

I could not be happier with the handling, steering and ride comfort of my car. A few other details are causing me grief but I'm sorting them out.

It drives great, no bump steer. I'd confidently let go of the wheel at 60, no question



Pete

 

I have no issues with my cowl steering on the Mutt Special. I have had a lot of hot rods in my time and really see no difference.

 

the big difference for me was slower response....when ur drivin the balls off it the slow steering is bad juju

 

As Kirk says in his post a cowl steering deal is no different to any other version if it is set up right. The front end does not know where the box is mounted and does not care provided the drag link swing arc is correct.
Mounting the box low on the frame rail and having the link run uphill towards the spindle is just as bad as having it high in the cowl with the link running downhill.

Roo

 

Been running this set up for ten years. Rides and drives like it's on rails through the corners.. Secret is having the drag link parallel to the ground, thus the modified hairpin steering arm. Note the second hole on the pitman as it took two tries to get it right

 

I have a Schroeder in my deuce roadster and it steers fine with no bump steer, I would do the gear reducer next time so it steers easier. I probably won't do it on another rod just because of the expense.

 

Been driven mine for awhile with no complaints. Steers just a little quick and is a blast to drive. Ross box with a '40 ford pitman arm.

 

Since when do race cars not encounter bumps? I dont think dirt tracks were any smoother back in the day than in my avatar pic. Cowl steering then just as now. Set up right street or track works fine.

 

Thank you Jeff. Back at ya on that hauler,sweeeet.

 

Excellent rod...

Kirk what is the length of your steering arm as compared to your pitman arm? They must be close in length ?

 

I cannot remember the exact lenghts but I do know they are within 1/2". When originally set up they were dead nuts, but then had to adjust the draglink to center the steering wheel.

From what I can tell you only get a realistic 3" amount of suspension travel. Given a 3'+ draglink/split bone the amount of difference the arcs swing is minimal. Of course your aiming for the same lengths but you'll be OK if you're within reason in my opinion.

 

ive never owned a schroeder set up, but i have driven numerous cars and been on the build teams of a few as well while working at Rolling Bones...its all in the set up, 8:1 boxes work well, and if you guys want the lowdown on mounting, etc, check out Aprils 2010 of Street Rodder.. Chuck did and article on the process Rolling Bones uses to install one

 

Beat me to it I just read that one today. Thinking about this for my hand built RPU.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

 

i have ran a cowl sterring setup on my t for a few years running a 52 f-1 box, me and my old boss just made a custom pitman arm for it. i have never experianced bumpsteer on it though.

 

Lengthen your pitman arm!
Bill.

 

Thats a cool looking car you got there

 

I've really like the steering on my car. Done on the cheep, I used a gear box from a late
'60s - early '70s BMW 2002. Pitman arm worked just right, and the ratio seems very quick.
I can turn the car with a 1/4 turn of the wheel. It worked well for me without a lot of modifications, (stock steering gear) thanks to a thread found on the H.A.M.B. !

 

Damn man, when theres snow on the ground, shut that friggen windsheild!!!!!

 

drive 27 & 29 rdster. cowl steer- one f-1 box - one is 70's mopar. all the advice is on target. I use a gm slide universal to the box to give more accurate placment . they handle great. also have good wheel al. front and rear,7-10 degree axle cant with slight tow in. tire presure is also important. be sure your box adjustment is on target. cowl steering is a great classic look. some sacrifice for bias tires. motor on!

 

This is not a result of cowl steering. It is either your steering box ratio or your pitman arm / steering arm ratio.

Jeff. As I stated in my original response, I'll happily let go of the wheel at 60. I'm not running a Shroeder box though. Mine is a late 60's Holden (GM) box that is quite similar to a tri 5 Chevy box to look at.

Pete

 

I have a "cowl" steering in my roadster.
It is an NBC (Nelson Bros) power type.
NO bump steer..Extremely stable at 120 mph on
a ROUGH dirt track.
It is 5/8 of a turn lock to lock.
A power type would be really nice on the street.

 

What I would like to see would be profile photos of the cars with cowl steering. Showing the angle of the steering link in relation to the wishbone/hairpin. I have been working on my car for a while and I am willing to admit that if you do not take the time and set everything up and test it you could be in for a rude awakening. For my model A I made a frame that fits inside my cowl and have moved steering around accordingly. This frame can also be placed on the frame without the cowl/cab in place. I had the chance to talk with Ken of Rolling Bones at sema and he said his car did not have bump steer. While there i also asked Pete Chapouris about Doane Spencers '32 roadster and he said if Doane ever drove the car with that steering setup he would have changed it for cross steer and the bump steer was terrible. Here are some pic's of my setup.

 

If i would build "Rollin Bones style cars" i wouldn`t tell anyone that my cars have bump steer .
If i would sell cross steering components , i wlould tell everybody that is the only way
to go.

 

Here is a pic of my 27T with cowl steering.
Little bump steer.

Have someone holding the steering wheel while you jump up and down on the front
of the frame.
If the tires move(steer) you have bump steer...
Simple
Michael

 

You got problems with your "paper"! Properly setup steering works fine, cowl or otherwise. Mine steered fine.

And FWIW my 2000 Ranger has bumpsteer and the steering wheel center is off so it does not spin in a true circle. See, engineers get it off a bit at tiems also.