I have a Delta 5/8" stroker crank for my 392. The block has been clearanced for the crank, but not enough for the rods. The rod nuts hit the pan rail. Can I clearance that area safely without hitting a water jacket? How about the cylinder base area? Some clearancing has been done there, but not quite enough. I also want to use 440 rods, because they're much cheaper than aftermarket 392 rods, and they're easy to convert. Except that they're .200" shorter than a 392 rod, so the counter weights hit the piston skirts in the wrist pin area, so I'm not comfertable clearancing the pistons. With the .030 over bore, and the 5/8" stroker it would make the motor a 459 CI(I think). Any advise, or tips would be appreciated. Thanks. -Jeff
Bugman I just two weeks ago saw the bottom end of My Buddies Vintage alc dragster.Its a Donovan 417 whitch He just installed a 5/8" stroker crank from Henry. It has alum rods and pistons but I remember the piston pins were very high on the piston. Like through the oil ring.I will see Him Monday so I will quizz Him on rod length and piston hieght.I dont think ya wanna use 440 rods you will want a cap screw rod. Dont take shortcuts with cheap rods ya got a good crank.Call JR.Thompson He builds street strokers and will answer your questions. Hes in Cali.---FEDER
What Feder said. DO NOT shortcut on your rods,or the rod bolts. Get a decent set of correct length rods for that stroker. It will be money well spent.
[ QUOTE ] i would begin stroking it at the distributor and work my way down from there. [/ QUOTE ] I'm more a valve covers man myself