Ok, so I've scrapped the flathead and bought a nice '63 289 for the A. I am going to mate it to a T-5 out of an '89 S-10. I am totally unfamiliar with the hydraulic throwout bearings, but think this is the way to go. Any advice on what bearing to buy and process to install in this combo? Thanks
Been using a stock setup from 60-61 Ford Econoline since 1962, brackets holding swinging pedals & whole 9 yds. works great, with both master cyls. on firewall & build your own bracket at bottom to push slave cyl. using 3/8 threaded bolt for adjustment purposes.
This looks good Don. I was thinking about putting the master cylinders under the floor, but I've decided to use early '60s Ford masters for both the brakes and clutch with hanging pedals, similar to what you've done. Still not sure about adapting the hydraulic throwout bearing, I've never worked with one, need to see one in operation I guess.
I would use a slave cyl instead.. If something goes wrong with the hydraulic throw out bearing, you're have to pull the trans.. Just my thoughts..........
I've installed a McLeod (McCloud) on a SBF. Bolts on to the transmission replacing the front bearing retainer. Measure from the back of the bell housing to the pressure plate fingers to get the correct length piston (free exchange). Feed -3 lines through the clutch fork hole as you install the transmission, bleed as you would a brake system. Simple, uncluttered, works great! Self-adjusts.
I have had a few of these on my coupe. The biggest problem with them are when you have to adjust the clutch or when they leak. To adjust the clutch you have to remove the transmission witch is a PITA. Mine leaked in Charlotte, Nc and i had to drive it to Pittsburgh with the clutch pedal laying on the floor. After That i put a external slave cylinder on it and have had no trouble since. It is worth the extra effort to put a slave cylinder on it now, when you building , instead of trying to add it on later
If you use an after market hydraulic throw out bearing (McLoed, Tilton, Howe etc.), or even a slave, with a stock master - you may have to do some mods to the master to get it to perform and live as expected. It's common for the hydraulic bearing to be designed to use either a 3/4" or 7/8" bore master based on the expected peddel ratio and needed operating pressure. I used a Tilton bearing and a early 60's Chevy pickup master. The bearing needed a 3/4" bore to work as designed, and the master was 1". I sent the master to Serria Brake and they sleeved the clutch side of the master down to 3/4" and all was good.
I've used my QuarterMaster T/O for well over a hundred thousnad miles with out a hitch... I do use a Wilwood 7/8" master too.
I ended up using an external slave from Speedway. With the 1 inch bore master (early Ford brake master) the pedal pressure was very high. I changed the pivit point on the pedal and that improved quite a bit. Still a little stiff for my wife, I may sleeve the master later if it's a problem.
I have used the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearings on a couple past projects with Muncie transmissions and have one forget current build. I have never had a problem with any of them in years of service as mentioned already just make sure you have your measurements correct and you should not have a problem
FWIW, it's the hydraulic throwout bearing for all my builds. I've used the McLeod, but on the last one, a Packard V8 with T85 3-speed OD, I used an OEM GM pickup unit and it was 1/4 the price and easier to set up besides. jack vines
10,000,000 5.0 Mustangs can't be wrong...lol Seriously though,that cable is a simple,inexpensive way to go,plus it has the added benefit of still allowing you clutch foot some direct input from the clutch as it's engaging.That alone would be a big deal for me.
I had the Willwodd clutch master cylinder score, and turn the fluid into, look like anti seize mud. Took it apart and shrunk a stainlees sleeve for it. Ago
I have a hydraulic throw out bearing setup works great the ones that say they are junk and this and that probably didn't set them up correctly to begin with if you read the instruction set them up with proper clearance they work excellent
LKPar, have you run this setup? It looks to me like the slave cylinder is on the wrong side of the clutch arm. It needs to push towards the rear.
That was worth everything. Just solved a dilemma I was having about a project I'm working on. Tham Nks
yeah, I'm running it now, works fine. I had the same thoughts when I put it on, but that's the only way the supplied ends on the slave worked for me. I thought it odd that the slave actually moved with the throw out arm instead of being anchored. By the way, this slave doesn't push, it pulls.
Have one in the A from Speedway and it works fine. I'm always wondering when it's going to go bad though,so far so good. When I built the 34 everything is mechanical, a lot less to worry about. Jim
I agree. I'll never have another Hyd throwout bearing. Slave cyl. is much better. If you have a leak it's external. Alot easier to fix out on the road. I used this from Novac. Includes bracket, slave cyl, throwout arm. Everything in the pic except bell housing. 200 bucks.
The Speedway, Ram, Southwest Speed, Howe and other hydraulic bearings work great if they are set up properly, and if the bellhousing is properly indexed. (ask me how I know) I always hear the comment about how if you need ago service the hydraulic throw out bearing, that the tranny will need to come out. Well if you have a regular throw out bearing and the bearing goes bad, guess what, the tranny needs to come out as well. The problem with cables is that they need to be away from exhaust heat as the teflon inside the cable will melt. (ask me how I know) Choose the best setup that you can live with because none of them are perfect.
I used a Howe from Speedway behind a small block wiht a T5. Loved it. The only way to go in my opinion.
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