Huge paint failure, what do I do now?

I am ill all weekend I slaved over this and 20% of the black paint lifted when the clear was sprayed on.
The raw tank was primered, sanded, filled, primered, Shot with Krylon Black rattle can, cured for a day, sanded with 600 & 1000 grit, foil scallops. I was sportin, the tank looked sweet.
Now for the clear coat, $20 can of SprayMax 2 part clear. The paint was sprayed on and some of the black now has a texture. The wrinkles do not want to stay down, they spring back up when pressed.
The foil & sides still look super. What can I do now to salvage ?
Should I scrape off the wrinkles and shoot the black again ? Why did the black lift ? The primer was sanded before the black went on.

 

use KRYLON clear!

 

x2....

 

Use real paint not rattle can..

 

I did not think that Krylon would stand up to gasoline.

 

Sorry to see that Bryan. I was restoring an old Pinarello and had a reaction like that. Good thing tho, I decided I hated the color ayway!

 

nor will it standup to 2 part clear...

 

Actually use a better quality paint period. I'd say get some Omni if you want to save money, use their black, clear and primer.

I've had problems using Krylon clear over their own colors. Messed up my mailbox.

 

Welle Auto up in the cities will mix good paint and put it in spray bombs if you like..........or the did, been a while since I lived there!

 

yup

 

Putting 2 part clear on Krylon is almost as bad as acetone on nail polish. They don't agree. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

 

The paint lifted because the clear wasn't compatible with the paint. The Krylon was probably acrylic enamel, not meant to be top coated, and the clear was most likely urethane and made to topcoat a urethane base.

You might be able to strip the lifted black section and leave the silver foil part, then just respray the black, but I wouldn't be too hopeful. You can get respectable results from spray can products, but just like the gun-sprayed paint, the components need to work together.

I think your best bet would be to carefully strip off just the black portion, it'll probably shave off with a razor blade, then respray the black (maybe overlapping the silver part slightly so the paint line won't show) using some black urethane that's made to be topcoated, let it all dry a while, then wetsand the cleared part and re-clear the whole thing. In the end it might be easier just to re-do the whole thing.

 

Thanks for the input, I had the SprayMax cans around and they were near the end of their 2 year shelf life, wanted to use them up. So much for saving a buck, well I hope someone can learn from my failure.

 

Yup , need higher quality materials. Sorry about the bad luck. It'll probably be easier to strip it all off and start over ,as suggested. Good luck.

 

Higher quality materials. But if you must stick with rattle can, quit buying krylon. It has all kinds of compatability problems that rustoleum doesn't. Good luck

 

I have actually had great luck with the APPLIANCE EPOXY that you get at the hardware store. Sure, black, almond and olive are your only choices but the stuff glosses real well and stands up to gas.

 

At least it's not a whole car. Not the point, I know. I use a black rattle can gloss paint that I guess would be an Aussie equivalent of Rustoleum. Comes up very glossy but I've had issues recoating after 24 hrs if it's not warm. It's enamel type paint and you either need to recoat while it's still fresh, just flashed off or wait a good 48 hrs.

I suppose the 2 part clear is on the scallops too. That makes it hard to just fix the black. Get over the pain and go again with the advice above.

By the way, those foil scallops look really cool. Good luck

 

I had the same type of thing happen on a license plate a few years ago. Time to strip and start over. Yuck - sorry.

 

yup happens to most of us...yea it sucks...my 2 cents..sand it all off and start over....i find the napa brand rattle cans work the best....whatever you choose buy all the same brand primer..paint and clear at least they will be compatible and hold up against one and other...

 

If you have more of the clear, and still want to do it cheap, I would use dupliclor.
Lightly spray the clear or dust it on, then let it dry pretty good before you put any thicker coats on.

 

Yes you must be carefull using Urethane on top of other paints.There are some rattle can primers that are compatable with Urethanes.The problem is they are $18 dollars a can and you wont find them at Walmart .You must buy them from an auto paint dealer .I saw a white base clear job done on a dually once with dollar store junk primer undernieth over some dent repairs .The next day every place there was the primer ,it turned the white paint brown .The Urethane atacked the cheap primer .It looked like someone burned the paint with a can of hairspray and a lighter in spots.I think you will have to strip it and start over.Good luck with it...

 

I'd strip it and start over. Any place that has the base on is going to cause trouble again. A cycle tank isn't a huge project so the time isn't terrible. Better to be safe than sorry twice.

 

Your krylon black was not capatible with the 2 part clear.. the 2 part clear is way to aggresive for rattle can enamel paint..

I have seen a friend use varathane black with varathane clear over top with good success on his 45 HD parts.. but it was very time consuming..

also.. sanding the rattle can black prior to clear opens it up for failure.. enamels harden up from the top.. the bottom stays soft for a very long time..

Do you have a small compressor ? a Door jam touch up gun works well on small projects..

 

Just tell everybody it's the new look >>>>.