HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

There are more than a few of the rolling bones cars that used 46 ford and other similar garnish moldings cut up to fit their mega chopped hot rods.

Might be worth a look

 

Looking in to it young Timothy. They certainly are cheaper. Even with out door panels I would really prefer it cleaned up around the glass. I’m making drilled incremental hole pieces for the A-pillars. The rear window to me ends up looking the worst without interior panels. I may make some flat aluminum piece to hold the rear in. I am currently considering not using the original glass I got since it will now need to be cut so much. I really wanted old glass cause You can tell visually and it would bug the hell out of me.

One more thing, I’ve realized I need flat head solid rivets for the seat brackets to look right.


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With as much curve as your car has now starting with something g that’s already curved makes since.

they basically cut it where the uprights meet the window sill and then heat and shape the upper and then weld it back together in the bottom corner if that makes since.

no cutting in the middle like a chopped stock garnish.

I think there’s photos in one of there books. If you can’t find any photos I’ll try to take a look for them sometime in the next few days

 

@Tim I’m curious if I can use two pairs of the quarter glass moldings to do the doors as well. They seem closer in shape to my windows.


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I think I will pursue something along this line. I believe the slanted cogs could help it stay in position. Not relying solely on spring tension. I concede that it may take leaning back or a pull up on the front section to disengage a position.

Got a few fresh tags from @donald turpenen thanks dt.
I’m not sure if I’ll replace this one but couldn’t pass on them.

Ideally my lower seat cushion should look like this. Though these seats may be the thing most deterring the car from show towards race. A more stock shape might still be in order.
As the car has evolved it’s clear I’m leaning much more heavily towards race.


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I got a wwii canvas seat cushion coming. It’s wide enough to cut down for two seats. The theater seat cushions just snap down, no tools. They have arched spring internals. My new idea is to cover those with the wool to match the backrest for photo opps, lol. Use those cushions for long drives with family. With the canvas I will make thinner dense foam pads on plywood with webbing crossing a square hole in the plywood. These will be my “race” cushion. I guesstimate they will sit one or two inches lower and look more fighter plane. Just drop’m in, easy peasy.


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Don’t you just hate in when you struggle with something for a long time. Then remember a good trick a the tail end of said project?
Long 1/4” oak doll rod for sanding corners instead of killing your fingers getting nowhere. Angry face but happy face too.
But it’s better than eating soup and reading StreetRodder right @Speedy Canuck ?


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Just spent a week fighting a small project only to walk back into the hose grumbling and realize that a tiny tweak to the first thing I tried will work better than everything I’ve been trying.

 

Blowers looking spiffy!

 

Dude! It’s taking me forever though. I’m close to being done. It will look fairly tasty but I’ll probably be the only one who appreciates the effort cause I must be doing something wrong. When I see the prices for polished over cast aftermarket parts it seems like a bargain now. I’ve never done something so multidimensional and time consuming for it’s size. But I’m a jack of all and master of notta.
I think the engine bay is gonna do its part. The worst part about adding a blower is gonna be stupid looking radiator support rods that have to be manipulated around the carbs.



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Barney making me look stupid over 70 years ago.


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Could consider putting the radiator support rods out further close to where the hinge for the hood sides are.

With the hood off it just echos the hood top lines and may be less distracting than zig zagging around the blower using stock anchor points.

something to think about.

also, this may be a point that you’re over thinking. You almost never even noticed those zig zags unless you purposely look for them to see how they did it or it’s really garish.

back 70 years ago they’d pick one or the other and go on with it.

that being said I get it. I just spent three days thinking about hose clamps no one will ever see. On a project I’m not even working on none the less

could split the different and make it wide and follow the hinge line from the firewall, have them connect in front of the blower and then have small legs come forward to the stock radiator anchors?

 

I was just about to order the phenolic today for my carburetor mischief when I paused. Since I’m already ripping Navarro why not make it out of aluminum. Then plump it as a fuel log like he did for cooling(fight detonation) and get more power. The phenolic is a classic heat diffuser of sorts in racing and would do some good work too. Aluminum on the other hand you know I would just have to polish it, Lol.


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There is a possibility I can’t get the carbs close enough together to flow straight down into the small 3-71 inlet. The Navarro fuel log/carb adapter has to angle the fuel air mixture towards the opening. I don’t think I would want to do this in the one piece carb base/throttle body part. So it might get a AL base then a phenolic adapter.
The one I’ve shown you guys is meant to fit a 4-71.

But check this cool detail out. Notice how there’s only mixture screws on one side.
One good news is the carbs do fit over the inlet width wise. It’s just lengthwise that is gonna take work. But with the one piece base I can get them much closer than Barney had his 48s in the last post.
It’s all gonna be so frick’n cool.


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Last pic of blower progress until assembly. Even I’m getting tired of it. I didn’t get out any of the Mrs’s backdrops but this plywood sure sets it off.
Now these old diesel parts might let me win a local show, probably not a car show, but something that has participation awards. It has already been in a magazine way back when.

I hope I haven’t depreciated the car’s value too much given the current market uncertainty, lol,lol,lol.
I think I’m starting to look forward to the Body after this and the seats are done.


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Wow

 

Credit to @Stogy and Wally Parks!


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I like the idea of plumbing the adapter manifold for cooling. You could use water and make it like an intercooler.

 

that blower housing - BLING! looks great!

 

So yes it would be way easier to buy the rear bearing support cover plates. The ones I looked at are pricey for how simple they are or seem too later in development. I don’t think anyone would have been selling these in 1946. So after 8 years away from truck driving I still find a few things good for a hot rod repurpose in my garage.


Big long strip of extruded aluminum. Sharpie out a couple circles.

Cut out then sanded to similar shape, it took a fair amount of work to get the beveled parts off on edges. Sorry they are not perfect circles.

Spend a lot of time trying to put this 30ish degree chamfer. I thought it would make the parts look more refined and also hide that they are sloppy shapes.

Sand, wet sand, polish by hand for the crappy look, drill holes, and try to imagine them on the machined down magnesium cover. The edge and the milled surface the bolts will go through will be shiny like these little guys. The inner cast webbing area will be the cool oxidized mag color.


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Thanks @dumprat and no thanks.

Your suggestion works great but now I have to cut 32(seriously) of these little guys

They hammer in nice and tight.
Sweating them on the other hand is not got in a good groove yet.

I paused to see if I should brush up on the proper steps. I’d like them to not come out so ugly.

I am polishing all the shutters but then they will get a bleach treatment to turn them green and blue.
These will most likely first thing to fail if I ever made it out to the salt flats.



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does it need to be soldered? maybe just prick punched to keep it from sliding out?

 

I would try tinning the angled pieces and apply flux in the smashed tube before installing the angled piece, then just enough heat to melt the solder that is on the angled piece so you can avoid having to clean up the solder on the outside

 

I did put some liquid flux down in there but got so excited to try and forgot to tin the piece even after I read it on the bottle. So stupid, considering I do this constantly wiring my guitars and amplifiers.


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Yes, but its the price you gotta pay. BTW, your blower case looks awesome!

 

Glad to be of help! Hahah (in my best evil laugh.....)

 

That might ding or crush the Louver as there is no doubt a hollow space internally on either side.

Now if that area is hidden behind the shell or trim it wouldn't matter.

Looking back at that pic I suppose you could made a bucking bar that fit the dip in the front visible side so that you could punch the backside without deforming the visible side but then the center area of that clip is cut away to fit the louver so there is nothing to punch into...

I know it's not as traditional as solder but what about epoxy or Ole JB? Obviously whatever the final fixing it with have to weather the elements and impacts under all driving conditions...Ahh walking a mile in a auto engineers shoes...it certainly can bring on some head scratching...

 

WHAT?!!! Sorry I couldn’t hear you over the blower whine and salt spray.

Thanks a 127.89 @Stogy
When your stumped by your own quesstimations its best if you daydream for awhile.


The door latch seat hold downs are very tight. Luckily I took the lock mechanisms off and that gave some room. But I am a 1/4” shy of fitting each latch on the side of the seat base and fitting the main seat frame. The cross-rod to unlatch them as a pair from the outside lever should just squeeze in.
Well back to dreaming.


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Hey you look good in that Hotrod...and 127.89...oh yeah...I think you'll feel like that everytime you drive it...


...Now in an aircraft situation if that Mismatch was encountered you would have to fabricate a contoured shim that fits both the curved surface and flat surface allowing you to torque things up without allowing distortion to either unit to maintain the component integrity. You could also fab or source out 2 separate contoured washers which would also work just fine and probably be easier to make...You don't want too small a washer/shim either due to the support it is in charge of and as close to the dia. of bolt is best to hold in position...by the way you can seal the washer to the latch or the seat and it will stay in one place of the other and that's a bonus...

In machining they use a goop that is mixed up and put in between those two parts to form a profile of the gap we are seeing that may aid in making a washer/shim...

Don't know how expensive that stuff is, probably not hugely expensive but it works pretty cool and you could use for one piece profile or trim it up for 2 individual...

There is wood, plaster or a trusty eye as other options with the latter being probably the most common as it's just a Hotrod. Once you make the washers you combine with a gasket between the shiny paint and that's the name of that tune...

One other thing that one may encounter is the bolts may not be 90 degrees to the face of the latch where they pass through keeping in mind you don't want the bolts protruding into your ass......you can also use a tapered washer there if an off angle condition does in fact exist as tightening with things off put twists and bends throughout the stack up involved......sorry I'm long winded...

AND they probably used them on WW11 Aircraft...Oh Yeah...
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...1951...just some Vintage Ambience for the Vintage Crowd...tracing the roots of the past...one picture at a time and of course via the accounts of those that were there...

Credit to Photographer, Owner
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