Got a repo. S.S. turn signal switch and the body is polished S.S. and sticks out like a sore thumb in my '36, too bright for me. Should I scuff the body up with coarse Scotchbrite or 80 grit paper before applying a self etching primer? Should I put a sealer over the top of the self etching primer and then lay down catalyzed primer followed by single stage acrylic enamel that I plan to use?
I suspect what you seek is mechanical adhesion...scratches are our friends! Certain primers were used on certain metals, possible aim for chemical bond effect, or corrosion mitigation. Zinc oxide on AL comes to mind.
There is a product on the market called X.I.M. and it is a bonding primer,works on ferrous and non ferrous materials. I have used the clear on stainless and chrome , works excellent. HRP
Well, this is clearly the correct way for a traditional hot rodderologist to tackle this cosmetic annoyance. But if you're more of a nitpicking cosmetologist where money is no object, you might wanna get fancy with something like this. For about $60, you can try an 8oz black oxide sample kit for stainless. Sorta like gunbluing only more expensive. https://ecommerce.epi.com/Room_Temp_Stainless_Steel_s/41.htm 8^) Jack E/NJ
Okay, will scuff up with some Scotch Bright and prime, no one seems to think self etching primer is necessary?
Stainless is acid resistant. Self etch primer isn't gonna do anything other than possibly cause problems with the topcoat.
XIM is a goodproduct if it's used properly its also called fortifier. We used it for years on color changes. Also if you use it to paint a window you better have a box of razor blades to get it off it really sticks..
Thanks for info. on self etching primer and stainless steel, makes sense. Powder coat won't work as I want to match color on steering column. Will look into XIM. Just went online & read the XIM in rattle can is not to be used under 2 component epoxies or urethanes. Is it okay to use under K36 with acrylic enamel topcoat?
The rear hairpins on my 27 are stainless steel tubing and I etch primed them and painted them. Held up for years with no scratches, then I had them powder coated when I redid the car some time ago. Don
I worked at a truck painter and we had some issues with painting on stainless steel. But the came up with a solution, mediablast it! And anything small and sensitive, that couldn't be blasted we scoffed it with scotch brite socked in a solution of cleaner, that's meant to use in your house. To clean interior and exterior that's gonna get painted. It can take mold, meldew, grease, nicotine and common dirt. Wit instead of mixing it in the recommended 1:10 with water, we went 1:4 with water. Works like a charm.
I generally stay away from these paint threads but not sure if etch primer is the way to go. I have painted since 1964 and for a number of years was a paint consultant to industry including General Motors when they had an adhesion problem with their stainless steel RTS coaches back in the mid 80s. Stainless is a different animal and I ran hundreds of adhesion tests on the stainless and found that the best product THEN was an epoxy primer made by PPG, the DP product line (DP 40,DP 90 etc). Today it is DPLF meaning lead free and I have not conducted any test on stainless since but I still like and use the product successfully. If you are using K36 this product should work well under the K36. It is best to mechanically prepare the surface, as Langy suggests. It requires more than scotchbrite. The downside to etch primers at least when I was consulting was that they needed strong amounts of acid within the primer and this was not readily available then. I really doubt that the amount needed is in the primers today. You may want to check with the paint manufacturers today as to etching stainless with their product.
The Jalopy Journal
