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Projects How not to build a hotrod - My '33 Plymouth

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Johnny Sparkle, Jan 6, 2018.

  1. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Just regular ol bacon. I don't know if I'm worthy of English bacon quite yet. I'm still studying baconomics.
     
    chryslerfan55, SEAAIRE354 and Cosmo49 like this.
  2. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,104

    The37Kid
    Member

  3. 39 Aaron NZ
    Joined: Jan 2, 2017
    Posts: 86

    39 Aaron NZ
    Member

    Hi Johnny Sparkle, thank you for your very informative build thread!
    You made me realize I need to upgrade my hammer selection and my HotRod project needed a bike project.
    Your thought process lets you test your awesome metal work skills.
    Cheers Aaron 20180708_115847.jpg
     
    Johnny Sparkle likes this.
  4. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,327

    BJR
    Member

    This is probably the only time in recorded history that something with "Bacon" in it failed.:D:p:D
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2018
    The37Kid and loudbang like this.
  5. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    I'm gonna do some stuff and things.
     

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  6. Have at it Johnny.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. Rckt98
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 950

    Rckt98
    Member

    Welcome back.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. Rambler man Dan
    Joined: Mar 24, 2018
    Posts: 30

    Rambler man Dan
    Member

    Great thread. Your metal work is really good. I especially enjoyed the side projects jumping in. Especially the rambler! I'm in the middle of building a 59 wagon. Sbc, airbags, ford rear end. Would love to see any pics of your build.
     
    loudbang and Johnny Sparkle like this.
  9. '51 Norm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 690

    '51 Norm
    Member
    from colorado

    I see that the fill plug on your cherry picker leaks. So did mine until I got a new ram. Your solution looks less expensive.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Once I figured out that it would stop leaking if I never refilled it, I stopped having issues.
     
    jerseyboy, ls1yj, gonzo and 5 others like this.
  11. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    That unibody and torque tube nonsense on the Rambler is the worst. So much work to make it right. You have my admiration/sympathy.

    If someone gave me a choice between spending another year building another Rambler or having genital warts for one year, I would have a tough time choosing.
     
    Squablow, jerseyboy, ls1yj and 7 others like this.
  12. customline3859
    Joined: Oct 20, 2017
    Posts: 85

    customline3859
    Member

    Glad to see this thread up and rolling again
     
    loudbang likes this.
  13. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,198

    farna
    Member

    Ramblers aren't that hard. The torque tube isn't hard to replace, just like replacing leaf springs with a four link. The only "trouble" is you HAVE to replace it to use a modern engine and trans... you have to change the rear axle and suspension too. Hey, you wanted a more modern drivetrain anyway...may as well change it all! I have a Jag IRS in mine... actually real easy using the Jag cage instead of a crossmember. Did the crossmember and everything bolted in solid first. Took me 10 years, but I finally got enough of all the vibration noise. Got a Jag cage and used the rubber mounts. Got rid of half the noise, and it was actually MUCH easier to mount!!
     
    loudbang and Rambler man Dan like this.
  14. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 626

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    When you say "Jag cage" do you mean just what the jag set up mounts to? Or is there some company making something for those swaps? Just curious jag rear is one of the options I've been thinking of but have not researched anything yet.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  15. JackdaRabbit
    Joined: Jul 15, 2008
    Posts: 489

    JackdaRabbit
    Member
    from WNC

    I think he means what's also called subframe, sub-assembly, cradle...that is the factory mounting.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  16. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 626

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    Sounds right
     
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  17. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,198

    farna
    Member

    That's right -- the sheetmetal stamping that the Jag IRS is mounted in from the factory. That's pre 89 or so models. Later models use a different setup with a special spring and shock. Easy enough to replace that with a single coil over, would just have to fab an upper mount. Would have to mod the crossmembers also. The later model doesn't require radius rods, which is a plus, and has outboard brakes instead of inboard. That's a plus also. Some models, like the XJ6 (XJS), used the 1st gen type (radius rods, inboard brakes) after 86, as late as 1996. 93-96 had outboard brakes by using the late model hub carriers. Might be Europe only though. Good pics here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_independent_rear_suspension. Click on the pics for more info.

    I use 24" four link bars with heims on the axle end and RUBBER rod ends (Ride Tech has them) on the body end for radius rods. If in a loud open car you'd be okay with heims on both ends, but I wanted it to be somewhat quiet. The rods move in two planes so you have to have heims, or you can use rubber or urethane on both ends and grease the threads on one end so the rods can twist a little. I was thinking the poly ends I used at first would give enough for the slight twisting motion, but found out about 3 years after installing that the ends were turning a little -- one pulled out! Used heims after, but since it took 20-25K miles to wear the threads out I could have just greased them and they would have lasted at least twice as long... maybe drilled the ends for a grease fitting or just disassemble and grease every 3-4 years. Easy enough, just take one bolt out and drop that end of the arm...
     
    loudbang likes this.
  18. Turbo57
    Joined: Aug 17, 2018
    Posts: 23

    Turbo57

    This is from my 1989 XJ40
     

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  19. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 4,303

    stanlow69
    Member
    from red oak

    Scan0690.jpg Let`s get back on subject guys. Here is some hacked up pictures of the frame some one was gonna use on the frame for a 33 Plymouth.
     
    gonzo, Stogy, Turbo57 and 1 other person like this.
  20. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Ok. Right. It's been a year or so since my last post, I bet you would expect some progress.

    Hahahahahahaha! You don't know me! I can procrastinate this crap forever!

    Step...uh...542?

    Finish the Harley. Go to some car shows. Go to Japan a few times for work. Avoid progress at all costs..
     

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    brEad, 39 Aaron NZ, patmanta and 10 others like this.
  21. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Step #543:

    Buy a '48 Panhead engine. Gather parts. Mock stuff up so you can look cool on Instagram.

    I don't even really like bikes that much. I don't know what's wrong with me.
     

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  22. 56 Dodge Pickup
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,776

    56 Dodge Pickup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    Wow welcome back! Merry Christmas! I’m Hoboshotrods on insta gram
     
  23. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Step 534:

    Force yourself to work on the coupe again. Get annoyed that it took, like, 4 freaking hours to make this stupid simple looking hoop to go over that funky-shaped TKO600.
     

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    brEad, patmanta, OahuEli and 7 others like this.
  24. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Step 535:

    Delay for at least a month or two after getting that stupid tranny hoop thing tacked in. Become inexplicably motivated one day and start knocking out the tranny tunnel.
     

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    brEad, patmanta, OahuEli and 11 others like this.
  25. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Step 536:

    Well shit. You accidentally made progress. Might as well put a floor in there while you're at it.
     

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    brEad, 39 Aaron NZ, patmanta and 16 others like this.
  26. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 16,298

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ho Ho Ho Santa Sparkles Back, Ho Ho Holy freeking awesome comeback @Johnny Sparkle
     
    Blue One and hendelec like this.
  27. Johnny Sparkle
    Joined: Sep 20, 2003
    Posts: 1,136

    Johnny Sparkle
    Member

    Step 537:

    Rebuild the bottom of the A-pillar to match the '32 3W patch panels that were hacked up to fit the cowl. Mock up the door skin patch panel. The '32 Ford 3W has a longer door and a bit of a different shape,but the panel will work, I think.

    I've honestly gotten pretty luck on all the '32 Ford stuff working so well so far. The curves are way different than the Plymouth, but it seems to be falling together pretty nicely.
     

    Attached Files:

  28. JackdaRabbit
    Joined: Jul 15, 2008
    Posts: 489

    JackdaRabbit
    Member
    from WNC

    Nice tin bending. I'm still watching.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  29. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,687

    gonzo
    Member

    Dig it. Glad you're back.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  30. Damn dude. WTF. Quite the journey !! Car looks great too ... by the way.
     
    Stogy, hendelec and tb33anda3rd like this.

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