I like enough room where the tires don't rub and that varies on most cars. I want at least a inch where the tire is closest to the body, there may be more room were the body meets the frame. HRP
I bottom out the suspension where the rear axle is totally against the bump stop then allow about 1" to body. This allows for any brake flex hose or anything else that might get in the way alittle bit of room.
Ya ok...ain't no Fuckin newbee...built this steel Topolino before some here where members.. There is plenty of room on my fiat build.. But very little room on my American Bantam as it already has a very high wheel opening
@Topolino Kid What exactly are you asking..........? You say 'body and rear axle'. Axle to frame rail clearance for suspension travel? Axle/pumpkin clearance to floor? Tire sidewall to body horizontally? Tire tread to fender/body lip clearance vertically? Better question............better answers..............
Thanks...been a good while since I've been here to the Hamb... This Bantam is a tricky build..without cutting it too hell n back..i guess this issue is why most have super sized tires on the rear lol
I like close clearances between body and tires, but more between axle and frame, or differential and trunk pan. So I use somewhat firm springs, whether they're leaf or coilovers. And I use poly bump stops mounted above the axle on the frame rails to stop the axle before the tires contact the body. Both of my cars have about 1.5" clearance from body to tires, but twice that between frame and axle. But the bump stops can compress a little, so they're adjusted to stop anything from making contact.
I don't understand how 3 inches of rearend travel doesn't keep the body of the tires with just 1 1/2 inches of tire clearance????
I did move it all around today..3 1/4 " of frame to axel clearance..threw a tire on rim n bolted it on..need to drop body a bit close closet to frame
Read it again. He has 3" of clearance between axle and frame, but the actual travel is limited to less than 1.5" by a combination of firm springs and the bump stops.
if you want the body down lower you would need to channel it more. you may need to cut the floor so it doesn't hit the axle. or you could make a bigger z in the frame or a c notch to get back the clearance. either way you may need to cut the floor out.
I'm installing new floor pans last couple of days..no..not changing or notching...logically it doesn't make sense to have 3 inches of clearance between frame n axel housing if you're going to limit travel with bump stops to save tires from rubbing..why bother??? Ever have a suspension fail and body land on tire???i did when my 69 Camaro was side swipped..busted shock...sheared locator for leaf spring..rearend slide backwards..breaking shackle..bammm Body riding on 14" m-60 tire...rear of Camaro went hard left...totally fucked up shit... .
A stock fifties car typically had 9" of suspension travel. With the car at rest, empty, about 5" of clearance, loaded 3" or 4". It was common to use 2" lowering blocks in back, this was ok if you did not have a full load of passengers and baggage. Rubber bump stops about 2" to 3" thick and they will squash an inch or 2, preventing the axle from clanging against the frame. I wouldn't go less than 3" with the bump stops cut in half even on a coupe with no back seat that will not carry heavy loads.