How do you figure ride height during a build?

So I'm still in the planning stages of my first build (a '30 Tudor), and one of the things I'm trying to figure out is what parts to build/buy and what frame mods are needed to get the ride height I want. I'm not to worried about the rear 'cause I plan on running ladder bars and coil overs, but the front has me a little confused. So how do you guys determine what parts to use and how much frame kickup/sweep is needed? I'm shooting for about 4-6" of ride height in the front BTW..

Thanks, Justin

 

Its really simple set it up so you can't drive it then
raise it up a 1/2 inch

 

I like it. And if you want it on a rake buy bigger rear tires.

 

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LMAO! if I can't figure it out first I may end up going this route...

 

set the ride height you want ...build chassis to fit said such ride height... strip springs down to main leaf , add spacer to compensate for missing leaves...set blocks under horns at said such ride height , build car and add leaves til the car is barely off blocks. for rear , set your coilover , minus spring at installed height desired and build chassis mounts to fit that installed height......add coil spring to fit desired height and poundage....if that makes any sense its easier to build the chassis to the ride height you want , than to try and re-engineer the chassis after the fact , to get it where you really want......

also , to set this up ....you need wheels and tires that your going to use or know what height the tires are that you are going to use and figure half that for a axle center line...such as 15 and 12 for a 30" & 24" tall tire. then you can set the axles at the 15 & 12 and go from there.......

 

Awesome, thanks brandon that does make alot of sence.

I think I've just been over thinking this, been told I got a problem with that

 

don't over complicate it and you'll be better off...... its not rocket science

 

i think you want to know how much the front spring will compress with say a SBC, then everything else is just measuring, but i do not know how much a spring will compress, i'd like to know myself.

 

I'd like to hear more, please, especially about traditional front ends. The rear seems easy, but how do you determined the front spring perch height for the various drops on front axles when compared to spindle height? Gary

 

Brandon's second part is good advise.

Like he said as well; I've heard the "use the main leaf and a spacer that replaces the rest of the leaves" method before from a good builder.
The problem is once you add the rest of leaves back the ride may or may not be too stiff. then its removing or adding leaves to get the ride you want. I think this method will get you close.

I removed one leaf on the rear and it changed the stiffness quite bit and the ride height over an inch.

I've only built two cars and am working on a third (all different) and so far it's been trial and error, adding and removing leaves 'till it was what I wanted.

Expect it to settle a bit after a few miles.

 

This sums it up perfectly.......

 

The front is real easy ,Different crossmembers have different heights ,I went with 0 and then posies spring with a superbell axle .Model a is an inch higher and 32 are even higher......

 

you can also swap out different arc leaves and get the same effect. more arch a little higher or lower height without adding more leaves to raise or lower.....

 

You can take spring to local race performance shop and they can measure spring. Springs are rated in lbs. 200 pound spring will compress 1" for ever 200 lbs. Setup for leaf is a little different but can be done.

 

Unless your lucky (or have done this dozens of times) you'll only be able to get "close" with all of the calculations. There are a lot of production tolerances that you deal with ordering new parts and consistancy is not one of the virtues of low production suspension components (springs).. Asking questions of those who have cars that are to your liking, stance wise, will go a long way to get you close. Also, as has been stated, the suspension will settle after a few hundred miles so either start out a little high or have provisions available to raise it a little after you accumulate some miles. To me this is one of the best parts of a build ,fine tuning what you've created to match the dream.

Frank

 

Great info guys, thank you...

Bumping for the monday morning crew, would like to hear if other people have different methods.

 

When we used to set up a new-build stock car, if the motor wasn't convenient to drop into the chassis, we'd get 3-4 guys to stand in the engine bay to get a close idea.

Bob

 

ah ah! lol. too funny dude!