The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kustombuilder, Jan 16, 2008.
That doesn't look strong enough that I would want to get under it with a car body on it.
I was thinking the same thing
I did find a few hospital beds with a capacity of 1000 lbs. a stripped body would be close.
I restore mostly 911 and E-types at work, not american land yachts so they're pretty light once stripped. And I did add front and rear vertical reinforcement with lock pins. This bed has a capacity of almost 900 lbs, and it's stripped from the bedding, part of the upper structure, the 3 electric motors and control module plus there is a safety margin build into it, it's not like you put a 901 lbs patient in it that it's going to crumple like a house of cards.
I also thought it looked light, and over balanced ( or should that be under balanced ).
Whilst it may have a safety factor built into it, I’m sure it is not intended in its original use in a hospital for doctors to be crawling around underneath it with a 900 lb patient on it.
But I’m sure you’re not going to be under it.
Thanks for posting.
Built way to many special tools. One of my favorites is my body dolly. When doing a frame off build. It's basically a giant sturdy work bench 4x4 legs 2x6 perimiter bracing at the top and bottom of the legs.plywood top and single plywood bottom shelf. Big heavy casters. Strip your shell fill the bottom shelf with crates full of brackets.wiring harness etc. Lift the body on top with your homemade cherry picker and roll the body and most of your project parts out of your way while building your engine, transmission and chassis.Getting the body up there is not as simple as it sounds but not that tough.I lift one end part way up and block it in place, lift the other end too high and block it lift the other end too high push the dolly under and lower the body into the table.A side benefit is now the body is at the right height to do body work.
I've had people telling me that I was insane driving around in cars without headrests, seat belts, abs, on biasply with drum brakes.
To be fair you're probably right. As long as you reinforced it like you say, and the cars aren't massively heavy and are stripped bare, as long it stable the load-bearing capacity is probably fine.
I was pulling out of my driveway and saw a 18" piece of rail road track in my yard near the road. I guess it fell off a truck? glad I wasn't out there when it did. I decided to make a couple anvils, one for my dad and one for a friend's new shop. a torch and a grinder [3 36 grit discs]. took me an hour and a half for the first one and just an hour for the second.
Here is a high school project that got me a "C". the notches didn't line up and it was not a "C" clamp.
I made a pair of these in the machine shop part of my apprenticeship many years ago.
Your railroad track anvil is very cool I made mine out of a piece of train track back in 94 and still use it.My latest for anyone that's interested,isn't actually a homemade tool but rather an adaptation of an exsisting product.If you open kobalt 24v batteries, you will find a solder joint at each end of the battery 1 positive 1 negative.Solder in a couple of pieces of wire gut your junk every make batteries hardwire.the kobalt battery into your old battery and glue it face down to the bottom of the dead battery.Now it mates with your tool and can be slid into a kobalt charger, everything I own 18v or 24v is running on kobalt batteries with no issues.I really had no fear going in anyway because I always ran 6v starters on 12v when I upgraded and they always held up.I may be wrong but I theorize the tool will actually last longer.Remember the switch from 6v to 12v? The wire gauges dropped considerably.Oriiginally I used two prong connectors and industrial Velcro so I could swap the kobalt batteries around but they are so cheap it's easier to just build as many batteries as you need.
A few whacks with a soft hammer with the lower jaw in a vice will bring that into alignment; or some persuasion with a big Crescent wrench.
You should've gotten a B at least.
Not the easiest thing to make for a high-school student, for sure.
IMO, it's an improvement over a C clamp anyway.
When I saw them being sold by a tool company (mid 70's ?), I talked the boss into getting a few for the shop. Very handy. Have quite a few for personal; 2", 2 1/2", 3", 4 1/2", & 6"
Never found out the origin of the Kant-Twist. Anyone know ?
How about a simple diagram of what you did ?
Thanks in advance.
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Top pic far right unmolested battery in the middle the two red wires are what you add the solder joint is already there to the left is the removed batt top.. 2nd pic gutted dewalt and Ryobi battery with pigtails soldered in. 3rd pic. Velcroed pigtails dewalt/kobalt battery on the charger.Im not doing pigtails and Velcro anymore.I don't like the wire loop hanging out and the Velcro isn't as secure as I like .They are all getting a minor rework.Eliminate the pigtails and glue the batteries in place..FWIW I chose the kobalt batts because they have the protection circuit and level meter and are inexpensive.
Made a 3/8 tubing beading tool from a cheap side cutter.
And here I was always fussing around making sleeves to solder onto the tubing.
@Dyce Do you heat up the tubing while forming it ?
No heat just turn the tube and squeeze. It forms quite easy.
I just cut one blade off of the cutter and ground the remaining one down so it is about 1/8in wide. The part that slips into the tube I turned on the lathe and trimmed half of it down on the belt sander until it fit inside of the tube. Cut a slot and tig welded it together. It took about an hour.
Damn, I love this thread!
I have to do this in the next few days to some thin wall pipe, and didn’t have a clue how to go about it.
Now that is what this thread is all about..
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I've been thinkin about making somekind of rotating and adjustale panel stand.
I found the idea for adjusting extensions from Lazze's Youtube video and the rest of is my own visions.
I bought a cheap trailer spindle for the rotation part, pair of cheap VW Golf MK III brakediscs, one '62-'66 Harley Panhead rear sprocket (fits straight on the VW brake disc without any machining) as a brake. That brake thing is not done yet, i think it will be springloaded latch or something. And bought some aluminum bar, steel square tubes, C-clamp pliers, stainless bar and 1" ballbearing balls. I thought it could be useful in other projects than with car panels, so i borrowed a hacked up Shovelhead frame from a friend of mine and i did an adapter for the Harley frames too. Its not a motorcycle frame jig, but i am sure that it will make welding tabs or other things easier. So here it is:
a tool of sorts. I had a sign shop make these magnet reminders up. I keep them on the lift posts. this is to remind me or someone else, later, that work still needs to be done.
This is not blazingly innovative or particularly crafty, but it helped me a great deal. As I age it's more difficult to see while working on projects. Recently while working in the cab of my F-1, the traditional trouble light kept getting in the way, plus it really wasn't that much help. Thinking I should get one of those super trick LED ones I remembered I had bought 4' LEDs for my small paint booth. Lotsa light, no heat to speak of, gotta be better.
I used zip ties to attach one overhead, plugged it in and was pleased with how well it worked.
I thought you were going to say you used it as a 3rd brake light.
You could probably stick some magnets on the back of that light bar and it would hold itself wherever you put it.
HD rotisserie, 1/4" RHS tubing and spiggots. Plenty of adjustment. I'll be able to easily lift the Olds frame with body and spin around. I added a 3/4" threaded balancer rod to get the CoG right. Wheels maybe later.
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