home made tools and equipment...

That's pretty cool.
Any better pics of the back side design ?

 

Most of the stuff on here is way to involved for me. This is more like my projects.

 

Building a frame onto the side of my powerhammer for a 10 ton press for louvres , dimple dies and punches . Only working on it when it’s to cold in the other side of the shop where the projects are . Will post again when it’s done , painted , and working . Probably in next two weeks . Some welding done some tacked , and some needs to be ground out and redone . Blue

 

built an engine run stand with integrated work stand. can roll the engine over while still in run stand to remove the crank shaft with out having to transfer engine to a work stand. still need a few anccillaries but the hard part is done. needed to build one any way to try and fire up a 255c.i. mercury flat head.


Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Very nice work.

 

Here's the electric bead roller I built a few years ago. 26" throat, swing up table. I powder coated it in a double blue vein color,

 

That is a very nice execution of a very well thought out plan High Plains Drifter! Any chance you could would share a few details of the build? That's an interesting variable speed drive and what look like "smaller than regular" diameter dies.
I hope the recent weather has not created unreasonable distractions for you, I have friends outside Rapid who have not enjoyed the past week or so.

 

Hasn't got above zero in over a week! Think it was like -23 deg below straight air temp this morning! Well, most of the metal I used on this project was 1/4" or 3/8" thick. A 1/4" wall sq tube was sandwiched with outer "U" plates on each side which were 3/8" thick & was cut out on a plasma table. This housed the solid blocks that the 1" dia shafts go through. The blocks were machined out for oil lite bronze bushings and drilled and tapped for the outer mounting bolts. The sq tube was machined for the blocks and were slotted for the adjustment bolts. The motor set-up was purchased from Mittler Bro's for like $250. The dies are Harbor Freight and were opened up a little to fit the turned down shaft ends which I made 7/8" to accommodate dies with a 7/8" bore. I bought the manual HF set just to try. I plain on buying other dies. I think with the coupon I paid like $99 for the whole set. I also used the drive gears from that set to for the electric motor. The legs were cut out on the plasma table out of 3/8" plate. This unit is heavy and there is no flex, I've rolled 16g with it already with nothing flexing. The only down fall it's big and takes up like a 4ft space!

 

Thanks for posting more details about your bead roller setup.
I hear you on the space issue.
A buddy of mine built a new shop that was huge or appeared so, but once he started acquiring and making machines and handy tools, the useable floor space has kinder more than halved now.
It is like you just need a store for all the stands and trolleys etc.

 

I've never heard anyone complain that their shop was "too big"

 

Yeah, even an aircraft hangar would be too small in my book.
Mind you that Boeing shop near Seattle WA comes close to meeting most hot rodders needs!!!

 

shops are only too big when your trying to heat them.......

 

My grandpa always told me when it comes to garages, start off big because they always get smaller. And when it comes to women, start off small because they always get bigger.

When I first saw my current place, it was 30x100 with 20' ceilings. I though "good lord" what am I going to do with all this space. Then it started getting cramped so I got some pallet racks and that helped a lot until it got cramped. Then I built a 800 square foot mezzanine and that helped a lot until it got cramped. Then I got what we call the annex and that's another 2400 sq feet floor space with 600 mezzanine and I though I was done. Nope it's getting cramped so I moved some stuff outside. I can see clearly that It's never going to end.

 

Heating, boy ain't that the truth.

 

just like like goldfish, we grow to the size of our container.

 

The biggest workshop area I ever saw was that owned by Last Refuge who is/was a HAMB member, he had an old saw mill which consisted if I recall correct of 3 duplicate shops jointed by very large sliding doors.
In just one of the 3 he had a Greyhound bus parked way over in the back corner which looked so small in comparison to the shop it was crazy. I'm sure I could have been happy with just 1/3 of what he had.
One job I would not like there would be sweeping the floors, by the time it was done you would have to start over again...

 

This is stupid simple. Cut the head off a long bolt, used my bandsaw to cut a notch for some emery paper. Cheapo hone. Just used it on a 40 ford front spring eye before I drove the shackle bushing in.

 

Done that. Works pretty good in a pinch when you have nothing else that works!

 

Cotter pin works too no cutting involved.

 

Thanks for that info. Sorry for the late reply.

 

Finished my press frame,sanded , and painted today. Will mount head and dies in morning if dry and will start playing with it as soon as possible. Already got an order for some louvres. Blue

 

Convert Caulking Gun to Fill Vehicles with Gear Oil, etc
Just thought of this yesterday and thought it might help folks make the messy job of filling your trans. and diff. with gear oil, etc. Also steering box with corn head grease, etc. Works great. You can"squirt" the gun at any angle and in a confined space. Plus, it's free.

1.Remove the plastic end cap plunger from empty caulking tube and clean out the insides of both nice and clean.
2. Cut spout so it has a 3/8 in. ID.
3. Screw in 3/8 dia. bolt just a few threads to prevent any leaking.
4. Pour gear oil into cleaned out caulking gun. It holds 15 oz.
5.Insert plastic plunger.
6. Insert cartridge in caulking gun, unscrew bolt and pull the trigger to fill.
7. Remove plastic plunger through the spout with 1/8 dia. rod, wooden dowel or long thin screwdriver.
Empty can was used to support cartridge. Use different cartridges for specific lubricants.

 

Now thats a good signature line..

 

Finished up my press . Did some test louvres in about 2 minuets. Can’t wait to try out my punch dies . But for now back to work on the model A . Blue

 

Looks like it is working great!

 

Simple but very handy unlike the ones avail. now the base is from 1/4 in. material with square edges. this allows the work to rest against it.
so it doesn't try to twist around the drill.

I stuck a small magnet on the side of the drill press.
this keeps the key always handy.

 

"I stuck a small magnet on the side of the drill press, this keeps the key always handy."

I just drilled a hole in the rear of the table for the key handle to fit. This also keeps the key handy.

 

I just made a specialised offset socket wrench to tighten the anti chatter rod bolts on my 41 pickup.

I put a post on the barn. Click the link to get the words to accompany the pics.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236811

 

I decided that I needed a gear drive rotator on my engine stand when I found that the handle for rotating the engine could hit the reinforcing strut on the back of the stand.

I cleverly prevented damage to the engine stand by having my hand between the handle and the strut when I made this discovery.

After finding that I couldn't afford a factory rotator I modified a Harbor Freight hand winch to rotate the engine stand head.

I can now rotate the engine without hurting myself, the only problem is what to do with the left over cable from the winch.