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Technical Holley 6140 Pump cam adjustments

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by porkchop4464, May 25, 2019.

  1. porkchop4464
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 880

    porkchop4464
    Member

    Twin 6140s 600 Holley 4 barrel on my SBC with an Edelbrock street ram.

    While the car goes, there is hesitation or stumble on hard hits; which, of course, may also have something to do with my damn 12 o'clock and not 2 o'clock timing tab issue which I wrote about in another post (why I really need to get that all sorted out and not just running by ear and feel).

    Anyway, I was told that you can move the pump cams on these carbs easily. Looking it over, it appears to be one screw to move the plastic insert from one location to another.

    My question focuses on the specifics regarding cam positions/hole locations. I have read that slot one, the highest "hole," is for low idle engines and thereby offers more initial fuel (or did I get that backward?)/out of the hole/pedal.

    Any experience and opinions greatly appreciated.

    Since there are two and they have vacuum secondaries, I choked the jets down as it was running rich. I wonder if I cut too much? Can't remember the numbers right now, but I do remember that I contacted Holley tech and ordered two sizes below what Holley had in the 600s when I bought them both brand new. I really didn't like busting them apart, as they were brand-plastic wrap-new Carbs.
    The two are currently about a year old now and only have maybe 70 miles on them.

    Help!

    The Pork
     
  2. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,193

    sdluck
    Member

    Do not do anything until the timing is sorted out both intial and total,how big is this small block what parts are in it,is it stick or auto,what gears in it
     
  3. porkchop4464
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 880

    porkchop4464
    Member

    350, Mexico crate engine, just under 300 hp, thumper cam, 5-speed manual, and 9 inch Ford locked gears with 4.88s
     
  4. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,193

    sdluck
    Member

    try timing with a vacuum gauge hooked to manifold vacuum,These engines have very low comp.Make a piston stop tool to verify tdc and make a new mark and pointer
     
    Truck64 likes this.

  5. jaw22w
    Joined: Mar 2, 2013
    Posts: 1,676

    jaw22w
    Member
    from Indiana

    If this is a 290 HP crate motor, the cam that came in it is already too big for the compression of that engine. I'd say you have too much cam. CR and cams go hand in hand.
     
  6. porkchop4464
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 880

    porkchop4464
    Member

    Yeah, I kinda thought the same. But I am faced with what I have, so I have to work with what I have. It actually runs fair enough and screams like hell when she gets rolling because of teh 488 rear gears. Ist and second are no problem, but when I reach third, I have to feather. I was hoping for mash and go at all times instead of having to feather o-so-slightly.
     
  7. porkchop4464
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 880

    porkchop4464
    Member

    I am pulling just over 15 at idle on the gauge which from what I have read is pretty decent for a tunnel ram engine?
     
  8. porkchop4464
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 880

    porkchop4464
    Member

    \

    Yeah, I am starting to accept that I will have to go the piston stop route on this one and buy some tape. Damn it! I really wanted an easy way out on this one, but once done, I will have true TDC. Thing is, I will bet all teh money in my pocket that when I do this, the damn marks are gonna line up correct mechanically, as they currently are when I pull plug one and find TDC.
     
  9. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 3,193

    sdluck
    Member

    Did you try an advance or retard the timing to see if the engine vacuum changed any

    Sent from my SM-J737T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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