Technical Hidden Disc Brake options.

I'm wondering if it is possible to have a discussion on the available options for hidden front disc brakes.
On my RPU I presently have a set of Magnum axle co. disc brakes.
I want to keep discs on the front and have been looking at the various kits to run discs that look like drums.
I have ruled out the kit by So-Cal as they have a stupid and convoluted procedure to bleed the calipers.
It requires you to almost completely disassemble the brakes for bleeding.

The other option is the kit from Johnsons Rod shop, the modernized Kinmonts
http://johnsonshotrodshop.com/parts-brakes.php

Or the kit from O'Brien Truckers
https://www.obrientruckers.com/ecom/product/251/2625/

I'd like to possibly go with one of these kits for a bit more traditional look.
I'm also considering a set of Coker American Classic black wall bias looking radials.

 

Larry,I seem to remember someone using aluminum pans from wally world and modified them to help cover the disc but I can't find the thread,I hope someone remembers and post the link,,it looked pretty go and wasn't a expensive project. HRP

 

Here is another option that Dave did on his Vicky. HRP

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-easy-disc-brake-covers.184568/

 

Thanks Danny. I have seen those covers and backing plate modifications.
I know that they are a cheaper way to go but I kind of like the look of the kits I posted too.
So many choices

 

Found the one where the skillets were used. HRP

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-backing-plates-from-frying-pans.285695/

 

Another option:

http://www.deucemanufacturing.com/products.html

I'm not sure if Walden's is just marketing or the manufacture.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/l-a-roadsters.980411/

 

At $1,745 bucks it sure ain't cheap. HRP

 

None of them are cheap Danny.
The deuce manufacturing kit suffers from the same stupid bleeding procedure thing that the So-Cal kit does.
Because the caliper sits up top, you cannot bleed the brakes with the backing plate bolted in place.
Because the brake hose passes through the backing plate, you have to rotate the backing plate when you rotate the caliper rearwards into bleeding position.
You can't roll the backing plate to that position without removing the steering arms from the spindles. NUTS.

I believe the other kits have a better setup for bleeding.

 

I have the So-Cal brakes on my coupe and the O'brien brakes on my rpu. Haven't had any problems with either.
Dennis was using my rpu in the ads for his brakes, plus he may be making drums that turn now, mine are fairly old.

The O'Brien brakes were easier to install and much easier to bleed, but the drums don't rotate so I used them on the fendered car and the So-Cal drums that rotate on the hi-boy coupe.

Mick

 

Like tits, fake ain't cheap.

 

Not sure about the Johnson Kinmonts but the bleeding procedure of the SoCals is a function of the caliper being set horizontally such that the fluid inlet is similar to that of a drum cylinder - in a normal disc application the caliper would be vertical thus putting the bleeder(s) uppermost. The others pictured don't seem to be any different, so shopping around on the basis of the bleeding procedure seems flawed to me.

I don't have an axe to grind but i do have 2 sets of SoCal brakes on the shelf but haven't got around to using them on their respective targets, but will admit to having thought about the bleeding. Fluid replacement is required only every couple of years so beyond initial fitment there's not too much to be concerned about. Wheel off, slip 'drum' off, remove 2 caliper bolts, bleed and refit. Admittedly more than a regular application but not that much??? Mileage may vary.

Chris

 

It's not flawed logic at all to be concerned about the bleeding procedure.
You are wrong when you assume that bleeding for fluid replacement would be easy.
You could not just remove the caliper bolts and move the caliper to bleed because the brake hose passes through the fixed backing plate.
In order to rotate the backing plate with the hose and caliper, you will have to remove the steering arms from the spindles. Stupid and way too much work.
The O'Brien kit and the JRS kinmonts are different in that the caliper is placed differently than the So Cal kit.

 

We are talking about modern technology packaged into a vintage look.
If that's fake then tough tittie

 

Hey Larry,
Why not Just make your own, they way you want.

The OBT non spinning one is a piece of cake. 40 backing plates and a couple messed up buick drums. Fab a caliper bracket and your well on your way.

 

I suppose I could do that. Or I could buy a set of those pretty Kinmont interpretations from Johnsons Hmmm.

 

What are the differences between the Johnson's Kinmonts & the Walden's? Any one compare?

 

I

 

I put the O'Brian Truckers on my roadster a few years ago.
They are fine and look great. Best Bang for the buck.

 

Maaaannnnn I like option number two, your are not trying to pass off a possum for a pig on that one. that is slick as a tic.

http://johnsonshotrodshop.com/parts-brakes.php

I am not trying to sway you on your decision, but a thought that is rolling around in my head right now, I am running vintage discs on my open wheel (fenders optional) car and just letting them hand out in the breeze. For the money you could be running brandy new airhearts that look just like they did 50 years ago.

Anyway back to it those modern kinmonts are just too cool for school. I would jump all over those if I had the chance.

 

Yes, they are pretty aren't they. I really have to search for some pictures of what the kit looks like broken down into all the components.
And they are pricey $3300 US for the polished version. With the low Canadian dollar I would be really hit.
Almost as much as the cost of my Winters quick change. Ouch !
Larry.

 

Blue One,

There is nothing wrong with those fine and expensive disc brake kits except for one thing in my opinion...they are beginning to be like "belly buttons" as they are used on so many custom builds. No harm done using them and they look great but if we use the term "belly button" on using a common Chevy motor than I really feel these shiny custom disc brake kits are beginning to have the same problem. Just my opinion.

I wanted something old school...something very traditional....something I could actually make here at our High Noon Speed Shop. So I purchased a metal bead roller and roller from Summit Racing with left over "Summit cash" from buying the Tremic 500 transmission there. I bought some original old Ford backing plates, modified them and rolled the outer rotor cover adding three beads for strength and looks. Then I made a custom scoop to hide the caliper with a metal air screen up front to help keep it all cool. I also added an air screen down below on the original backing plates for improved air flow. So far so good and nothing ever seems hot.

You could build these in different ways and finish them for any type of look whether traditional or modern. It sure didn't cost much to build them either and I learned a few things along the way! Isn't that what "old school" hot rodding is all about!!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/street-rodder-features-my-32-coupe.945829/#post-10640018

32 Spitfire
High Noon Speed Shop

 

You do what you can.
I'd like to watch you build some brake enhancers though & Work out those bugs and design issues that you don't like.

The first 3 pics here are a $ 3000.00 kit plus over seas shipping plus a huge lead time and you need to ship him your uprights!!!






Here's my rendition.
That's scary ass spindle is someone else's best effort I guess. That's what we found anyway.











Of course I mocked that brake system up on a 4" drop axle with 37 spindles. IMO its way way cleaner look than any other OEM set up we see. And it would be easy to hide. The list of advantages goes far and wide. It's so similar to some after market setups that you'd have a hard time saying it wasn't copied.

 

The Kinmonts that Walden's sells are design and manufactured by the originator of the Function Fakes which So Cal first sold and later made the cheap copy. They are built by Paul Carroll @ http://www.deucemanufacturing.com His stuff is top notch, look at his then decide very nicely designed.

 

I have looked into ways to go about it because I hate spending 2 hrs. bleeding a set of front brakes. If I was designing a kit it would have a block that looks like a functional wheel cylinder. I would run a line from the inside of the block to the caliper that would be mounted in behind the inlet air scoop. I would then come off the bleeder port on the caliper back up to the bleeder in the inlet block so that you could bleed the brakes just like a drum brake system, no disassembly required. Maybe I should make a kit for this what do you think.

 

I think that is a good idea and should be incorporated into the deuce factory kit.
Bleeding at assembly and any time after would be easy.

 

I could build a set of hidden discs, a small aftermarket caliper with a drilled solid rotor to keep all of it compact. Lots of calipers that could be used, some sport bike two piston calipers would be up to the job and are very affordable. If the caliper stuck out past the backing plate, a screened scoop would cover it. As far as the bleeding problem? I don't see the problem, run a small length of braided hose from the bleeder to a spot on the backing plate, where the original wheel cylinder one was.

 

FYI Walden's does NOT sell Kinmonts. The Deuce factory brakes are not Kinmonts either.
The Johnson Rod shop version is a modern interpretation of the Kinmonts.

 

At his point it is doubtful that I will be ordering the JRS kit. For the polished kit at $3300 US I would be looking at $4500 Canadian to get them to me .
I may look harder at the O'Brien kit.
Larry.

 

I am not saying this to be a butt so please don't take it that way (unless of course you really want to ) but I usually only bleed my brakes when I replace the pads, you have to take everything apart to replace the pads anyway. I know that I am missing something obvious here but if I have to take it apart to replace the pads and that is when I bleed the brakes it seems like it really doesn't make that much difference.

 

If you use a vacuum bleeder to bleed your brakes does it matter what the orientation is anymore? Would that negate the need to dismantle the so cal style hidden disks for bleeding?


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