Hot Rods Here we go again...The July BANGER MEET!!!

What color did you paint your roadster? I've been tossing around an oxblood red color for my roadster or an old original ford color from '29, but havn't concreated any decisions yet??

Thanks in advance.

 

I was at the same meet as Artiki still waiting for that 15 second ticket.

It took its time but it finally got it!

The full report here,

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275761

I can't stop there though, so I am now looking towards a 14!
I've already got the ball rolling by getting my SU manifolds welded up. Hopefully I will have pictures and progress for later in the week.

Artiki and me running the 4 Banger final...



Bloody brill, I had a great day out as a specky tator, hopefully I'll join in in September. Artiki I hope you got away with the sun burn - those kinds can be cruel.................

Took the coupe up the road last night for its first drive since sorting out all the problems.
Its booked in for a MOT on Friday and then I can get it registered.[/quote]

Hope you got through the MOT!


I've been out and about, finding some more back roads for that Middle England reliability run - not sure when, but still plan on doing it

 

A few general leaps and bounds forward here...got the brakes and the brake cross service shaft things all worked out. Everything is A-ok now.

Got the '32 spring perches to where they need to be along with the 32 front axle,...that seems to all jive well. Had a good friend who is a Model A Ford Restorer Club member come on down a minute ago,...he confirmed all is where it should be,...with approx. 35 years experience in Model A's he's the guy to talk with!!

Got in my Winfield head (a factory sencond that was a little cheaper due to a pinhole or two in the casting that wept a bit of water when it was pressure tested at Taylor Engine in CA. Welded it up so it should be fine now,...want to figure out a way to pressure test it now though to make sure its all A-ok!!??) Polished that up yesterday.

 

Yup! 1 & 4 exits the back on the passenger side of the car, and 2 & 3 crosses over to the driver's side.

 

Some progress,
I am using stock "A" shocks on my 29 RPU and discovered that the shock arms were at quite an uphill angle because of the lower position after installing a reversed eye front spring. I took some original tubular links which are slightly thicker walled and shortened them the amount of the spacer. I cut them off in the lathe so they would be square and cut a heavy chamfer for the weld. Although there is still a slight angle it is not as noticeable.
32 shocks used the "dog bone" type links so there is no provision for the rubber seal and the metal seal holder as used on the "A" spring perches with tube shock links. Not wanting to burn my new Rustoleum paint by welding I just made spacers to back up the seals

 

Well I have good news and Bad

Took the coupe down for its MOT today and it passed with no problems. So now I can get it registered for the UK.

On the way back home had to pull in on a steep hill to let another car past but when I tried to pull off the clutch started juddering real bad then a banging noise started comming from the gearbox and the old girl would not pull away at all. I had to roll back down the hill to the layby.
I was only a few miles away from home so I got a mate to to me home.
After inspecting the gearbox I foung the casing had cracked and one of the gears had half its teeth stripped off. Not good news




I have now got to find another gearbox.

Any UK Hambers got one kicking around?

 

Yep the boys at Juarez do it very well indeed.
Must not forget Nervouse Bob ! who built the new motor.

 

Checked the plugs after the run dow to the BBQ nice colour on all 4, no heavy out of sink sooting !
But your spot on and will keep an eye on it.

Will report on the running of the EQ manifold soon

 

Try Nervous Bob pm me if you don't have his number

 

Kelvin - I can't believe you had to ask! Bob's y'man. He's tripping over the bloody things...

 

The 5-main is 4 inch to start with but then I don't have valves in the block to bump into or crack at.......

Here's photos of the Topo

 

Thanks for all the "Header" shots. This monthly thread is always the best. The Motor's in, and now lookin for good exhaust ideas. Thinking of trying Zoomies with Harley baffles outta stainless. But can't seem to decide on configuration till the cowl is on the frame. Anyone out there got pics of Bangers with Zoomies? B

 

Anyone sell just the flanges to make your own?

 

I just copied from the engine to paper,then had a buddy cut it out on a Computer controlled Table Plasma cutter. Came out killer. B

 

Red's for one, AC&R used to sell them I suppose they still do. I used the dimensions from a reprint of Miller/Cragar head blueprint from an article in S O S S mag. Just dialed if off on my Bridgeport. Almost a must for the Denver Miller heads because of core shift,

 

you could also use a gasket as your template.

 

Picked this up at a cool auction yesterday:









Looks like the manifold is in good shape. One 97 has been chrome plated and they are both broken in back of the main carb body where the float is. Are these junk, parts carbs, or ????

I know this gets thrown around every once in a while, but what would be the best dual carb setup for a stock Model B engine with a Snyder's head? 81s? 48s? 97s? Can you make 94s work as well as 97s?

Thanks,
Will Kimble

 

Also wanted to post a progress report on my jalopy, unfortunately no new pics this time. Since the photos I posted last month, we have fitted the grille shell and radiator support rods. I also committed to a "modified" approach rather than a RPU. Thanks for the encouragement, it is going to be very unique!

We built a wooden platform that sits on the frame between the back of the cab and the rear crossmember. There will be a big, black trunk mounted to the platform, and the trunk will hold the battery and maybe the license plate and license plate light. I will take some pics once we get the trunk mounted.

We made a steering column out of 4130 tube, 1 3/4" OD and 1 5/8" ID. It is very plain but looks great without the flange for the spark & throttle rods. It fits perfectly in the stock support. I made a bushing at the steering wheel end out of a bronze oilite bushing, had it machined to fit the shaft and then epoxied it in a wood bushing that I made to fit in the tube. I then epoxied the whole thing in the tube and drilled it for a couple screws. Looks really great, and was fun and simple to do.

Got the rear end sorted out and back under the car. Not much room between the frame and the rear radius rods with the reversed eye spring - maybe 3" at most. But Dad and I both stood on the rear crossmember and jumped up and down and we couldn't make it hit. I guess we will have to suck it and see.

Got the rear brakes converted to hydraulic, they are almost ready to bleed. TIP: If you convert to modern shocks, you can grind off the Model A shock mount in order to get access to the wheel cylinders. I think I had to sand the head of the lower wheel cylinder mounting bolt on the belt sander so it would clear. You will still have to cut a relief in the backing plate to clear the spring perch, but you do not have to rotate the backing plate forward and redrill.

Still mocking up seats, right now a rear seat from a Jeep TJ is in there - pretty good fit and very comfortable. I am picking up a Dodge minivan middle seat this afternoon to try out, too.

There is a ton of room with these seats, I am 6' 2" and fit easily - won't even have to bend the '39 shift lever. My Dad is 6' 9" and will be able to drive it just fine. My wife can sit in the passenger seat and stretch her legs straight out! Crazy, imagine trying that in a stock '30-31 RPU!!!

Bang on everybody,
Will Kimble

 

Right now I am out of town so progress on my 31 pickup is at a standstill, but while I have been away I have been working on a new website for model A'ers here it is for any and all who are interested.
http://www.modernamechanic.com

 

Main body is junk. You can replace just the main body - they do pop up from time to time - but that's not an uncommon area to break - if you drop them, Murphy's law says they will land on the fuel inlet & break the bowl just like that - ask me how I know.

 

Will

You'll be the first one to the FIRE!

I hope not!!

 

hey guys,...a quick question here...

That Winfield head I picked up from specialty ford parts,...it was a factory second because under 20 psi it weeped just a bit from an a small area in the first cylinder chamber and on top where the rods get peened over on the casting. both areas rewelded and appear solid, BUT, should I figure out a way to pressure test it FIRST before I decide to put the head on my newly rebuilt engine??

OR,....just go with it as it is after the weld?

Is there a way to seal up the heads from within as far as any pinholes in the casting??

Just curious,...thanks guys

 

Charley Yapp (SOSS) does. 3/8 " and surface ground.

 

yes i have one of charlie's,...good piece, good price also.

 

Im still fighting with my banger. A Baptism of fire - and sometimes i walk out the garage wishing it was on fire!

A lot of vibration and the water pumping itself out the over flow means going round the block is entertaining. Not done more than 3 miles at one outing yet without wrenching it somehow on the roadside.

Missed the two major events this month which has pissed me off too. Driving round still releases more and more rust dust from inside the tank but the cheap see thru fuel filters get it all - but once its all out its all out.

Getting there..... slowly.

 

Who welded the head? They should have tested it. One of the most common sealers is Sodium Silicate or "Egg Keep" it is usually found in liquid form. The head should reach around 200 degrees and this stuff will flow to the leak and seal. It is the main ingredient in KW block seal. I once had a 49 ford given to me because bit had a cracked block and leaked real bad. You could hear it trickling down inside the block. I put some KW in it and it didn't seem to seal so I drove it 3 miles to work as an air cooled Ford for a couple of weeks. Then one day I filled it up as I was going to drive a little further and it didn't leak a drop. apparently it had to get hot and then it sealed. Some engine builders put in in as insurance after a rebuild

 

I was the one to weld it, I'm a welder by trade. I was going to test it regardless when it all comes down to it,...I gave it some thought and its the common sense thing to do.

That's the sealer I had heard about,...couldn't think of its name though,..thanks!!! Would any auto parts store stock it?

 

The KW is sold just about everywhere. The straight Sodium Silicate can be purchased at any chemical supply. I bought and used the straight stuff because I could buy just 4 ounces which is the amount I remember recommended
Saw an original Winfield polished Al head on ebay went for $550.

 

I mocked up the SU's.





Thing is, I don't like them...

They just look too.. Eerrmm... Birtish. They look like they fell off an MG sports car and thats not a good thing!

Oh well back to the drawing board...

 

I don't own the car, but I helped build it. I put a Winfield Al. head and a Scalded Dog down draft 1-97, on an otherwise stock rebuilt motor.4" dropped axle and reworked springs front and rear. Maiden voyage was 240 miles to BTT50's. No problems, Has "Brand New" Wards Riverside tires(possibly 30-40 years old.) Bang on!!!