Hot Rods Help with Traditional '30 Model A Coupe build

Looks great like the head light stands

 

Who manufactures the grill and shell you bought? I am also looking for a repro

 

Got it off ebay.

 

Got my intake and carbs in...also found some Corvette valve covers at the last swap meet.

 

Set the body on to start fabing up the steering, brake pedal and all the other little odds and ends. Here's a video of how to install the body by yourself

 

Got my steering mocked up, I'm using the column, wheel and box from a '40 Ford truck. It seems to work good but I don't see many people using them. I used 3/8 plate for the mount

The steering wheel has been spray bombed but is in great shape, the column had been beat up pretty bad so I replaced the bottom half with a section from a column shift column from the '46 donor chassis.

 

Wow this thing's really coming along...lookin good! Makes me wish the weather would warm up already so I could get going on mine again. Are you going to leave it on top of the frame or channel it?

 

Great thread, scary video, good looking build.

 

No channel, but probably chop the top 3".

 

Great looking build , building a 31 coupe myself , one possible problem I see is the transverse rear leaf with the ladder bars straight ahead attaching to the frame. there will be a bind issue and possible cracking of the brackets or rear end housing with a setup like this. There are several threads on here addressing this issue.

 

I plan to use a panhard rod to eliminate side to side movement.

 

I'm a little concerned about the placement of the steering gear box, looks like it should be moved forward quite a bit.

 

Lookin's good!

Red Ram Hemi

 

I measured the distance between the axle and pitman arm on the chassis I got the box from and I'm really close, if I move it forward any more I will need to lengthen the column.

What exactly is your concern? Bump steer? And thanks for the comments guys, all this helps.

 

the coupe is looking great,subscribed.....

 

Nice build thread for sure. I'm running a similar steering setup on my A. I'm just now in the mock up stage (I work REALLY slow). Yours looks good, how was the spacing for the exhaust? I had to raise my engine up a bit to clear the column.

 

Side to side really is not what I mean . When one rear wheel moves up and down there is a twisting action on the ladder bars that puts a lot of stress on the brackets on the rear ladder bar mounts. Like i said earlier there are several threads that address this problem.

 

I'm either going with stock ram horns or lake style headers, either way I'm good on clearence.

Gotcha, I'll read up on the other threads.

Thanks again for the input.

 

Wow you come a long way. Looking good!

 

You could end up with bump steer since both links arent parallel in the front.
Also those rear ladders need to be closer together in the front at the trans crossmember. Lots of info on them in past threads.
You are making some real quick progress with that coupe . Looks good.

 

That's just mocked up, I have a '48 arm (taper on the top vs on the bottom) that I've bent some so they should be level when I change that out.

 

Been working on a dash, pretty simple design just rolled under the bottom edge. Going to use a speedometer from a '60 Impala (has high beam and signal indicator lamps), will probably go with some older SW gauges (two on each side of the speedometer).

 

I just found this. I like what I'm seeing so far. I thought it was interesting that you mounted your headlights before you had a grill shell. They seem to be in a good spot..just a brave move. I love the headlight stands too. Lot's of innovation going on here.

In short, the closer the front mounts are to the centre, the better it will be. More efficient movement without binding and far less stress on components.

Pete

 

To get my drag link at the right level I used a '48 pitman arm and added a little more bend to it.



Got the dash cut for the speedo and started framing up the floor.





Cut the manged up rear crossmember and filler panel out and began squaring up the rear fenders.

 

Are you using the top of the bellhousing to set the front pitch of the floorboard?
Looks like it might cut your foot room down quite a bit, at least looking at the distance between the original hight and your driver's side frame. Have you considered using the stock location and building a trans hump instead or are you trying to stay away from that?

 

The seat will be all the way back and the steering and pedals will be back a few inches as well, I'm 6' 2" and it seems to fit pretty good.

 

Lot's of good build threads with Model A floorboard details on here...

 

I got my floor finished and picked up a seat, it's for the rear of a CJ5 Jeep.



I will probably only use the shift gate/pattern part of the console.





The mounting legs will be turned toward the rear, the seat has a latch in the rear and folds forward.



Pretty good storage behind the seat.

 

This is a great looking thing, lots of good idea's. subscribed

 

Nice building
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