OK, I've come to the point of doing the top insert in my 30 sedan.I had originally planned to use a kit that Juliano's offers. The more I think about it, the less I think I need to pay 200 bucks for a kit. There's gotta be a way to do it on the cheap, while still having a decent finished product. The part that's hanging me up is what to use for a channel around the edge. Any ideas?
Do you want a proper rag insert, or to steel it out? My Morris originally had a rag insert, some sort of plastic vinyl stuff, done with curved wood battens across the middle and then a strip of aluminium (I'm English) was screwed direct to the roof all round holding it down. The corners were nicely chamfered to fit and it looked okay. I'm putting steel in instead, to stiffen it all up. A flat sheet curves nicely, and gets rid of that bulbous 'babies pram' look the rag insert had.
Hey flyin' eye...go to a local auto trim shop. Ask for color key rail and moulding. It's the stuff that goes around late seventies early eighties car roofs with a vinyl top..the rail is aluminum and you pop rivet it in place...the moulding should come in several colors.... Here's what cha do: 1. Make sure your top bows and surrounding wood is good. Remove all staples/ nails. Get some waterproof boat top material...at the trim shop. Stretch it and staple it down over the opening....make sure it's tight!!! 2. Take the rail and pop rivet it just outside where the bottom material stapled. Drill a hole every inch...but only pop rivet in every third hole to hold it in place as you go...carefully curve the rail to the opening. 3. Spray glue (contact adhisive from the trim shop) 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch poly foam to the the water proof material out and over the aluminum rail. Carefully trim the foam with a razor blade at the INSIDE edge of the rail...do not cut your waterproof underlay!!! Remove the rail. 4. Now, build a wooden frame out of 2x4's bigger than you car top...stretch you top material over this framework and staple it entirely around. Work corner to corner and get all the wrinkles out... 5. Place the material covered frame over the top of the car. Replace your aluminum rail and begin poking holes with and awl and put a rivet in every hole. When finished, trim the excess material on the outside of the aluminum and remove the 2x4 frame. Clip the moulding in place...leaving the seam in the rear. That's it in a nutshell and you should come in for under the price of a kit....Stitch
Skip I can help him get the stuff from a local suplier, I never thought of doing it that way. Scott call me when you want to do this and we can go there together...Danny
Skip, thanks for the info. Danny, I'll try to get ahold of you pretty soon, I assume you'll be really busy after about March?
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