I just picked up a Muncie M21 4 speed for my 1938 Chevy pickup project. I need to mount my Hurst Competition Plus shifter the most forward I can to clear the seat platform and keep the shift lever clear of the seat. I need linkage rods, a raised shifter mount, 1st/2nd - 3rd/4th and reverse levers for the M21. I want to use the short levers used on 1967-68 Camero muncies to get the shortest throw, since my shift handle is 16.5" tall. The transmission has a 2223 shifter mount on it with stripped shifter mount threads, which has an ok height, but the higher the better. There are so many different linkage set ups, I'm having trouble finding anything for a forward mounted shifter. Any recommendations on a tall mounting plate that with adjustability and linkage rods to match would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, ZZ
you mean the threaded rods that go from the shifter to the shift arms? doesn't hurst have them? i recently bought an indy shifter and the instructions touched on that...
Hi Dan, Yes those linkage rods I'm referring too. Hotwyr, thanks for the lead. Anyone know if the threaded linkage rods will have enough threads to fit both a rear and forward mounted shifter? That could make things a lot easier.
There is no "forward shifter mount" that I know of. I'm not sure that a handle for a bench seat Tri 5 is tall enough to clear the truck seat but it does put the shifter several inches forward.
Can you just make them? Get some stainless 3/8" rod, bend and cut to the desired length and shape. Cross drill the ends for pins and clips. I did this when adapting a Hurst shifter to a BW 3 spd a number of years ago.
Mr48Chev, There are 5 mounting holes on the tail shaft housing allowing for forward mount or rear mount plate. Most shifters appear to be mounted to the rear. I found there is later tail housing with only 3 mounting holes. I attached photos of what I have where the mount is forward. I went with the taller stick for more seat clearance. I figure if it came down to it, I can make an adapter to raise the stick and move it forward which I didn't really want to do because that increases stick throw. FrozenMerc, The stock rods are hardened so they don't bend. Anything custom with bends will have to be hardened and I don't have a torch set. Custom straight linkage will depend on the height the shifter sits, if straight rods will clear the reverse output or not. Unfortunately I'm a long way from putting the transmission and engine in the frame with the cab on to check clearances. Johnny Gee, I have considered making a mount if I can't find what I need. My main concern is finding the threaded linkage rods to fit an existing mount bracket for forward mounting with as much height as possible and still keep the shifter under the floor.
I run non hardened , made at home , 3/8 cold rolled steel rod on clutch linkage & shift linkage , have cut , bent & rewelded factory stuff for years & have never bent a rod in use , ever . I haven't a clue as to why they'd need to be hardened ?
I wasn't thinking tailshaft I was thinking offset bracket. I don't have contact info for Shifter-dr outside of Ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_tr...trksid=p3542580.m47492.l71970&_ssn=shifter-dr and he is out of contact until next week as he is probably at one of the big rod trots going on this weekend. Still I would contact him, tell him what you want to do and ask what he suggests to do it with. Factory Hurst shift rods aren't cheap but my experience says that make it yourself or rework them to work shift rods don't always work very well.
The shortest rods will be for the 66/67 Chevy II/Nova application, at times they have been hard to find. Pretty easy to make your own modifications, my Nova has a console, you can see I tried to roll the shifter forward on the mount slightly to position the shifter better in the console opening but put it back and made modifications to the Hurst handle instead.
^^^^^ That’s pretty much the sum of how far forward I made my set up due to engine set back. I did make shifter go left a little further than that.
I made the shifter bracket, rods and arms on this T-10. I think I used 7/16" mild steel for the rods and turned the rods to 3/8" through the arms. Never had an issue with bending. Gary
I have about a dozen shifter rods, levers and even a mounting plate you can have just pay for shipping. If you're in Canada it may be a problem. I'll see if I can get a picture of all the stuff tomorrow. All for Muncie trans some are OEM shifter parts. Pat
That's got to be the shortest reverse rod ever! It's probably how far forward I as I actually need, but the cab is so narrow the shifter would be against my leg, but nothing an offset adapter to set the handle over the center of the transmission can't fix. This is a good idea and I will definitely keep it in mind.
Many years back I needed a Hurst handle with a little offset for my roadster, bought one but it had a lot more than I needed, made a cut and overlapped it about an inch a welded it up. I don't recall the Hurst number but it might be this one, holy crap, they have really gone up. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-5384084
Here is how far forward my Lokar shifter is mounted on my T350 Automatic with the factory park brake applied to it. It just shows how little room there is in these truck ( mine is a '37 ). Mine is mounted in the middle of the transmission and puts the shifter in the middle of the floor. The lever just hits the seat in 1st gear.
I make my own also, and thread the ends for heim ends. Makes a really slick shifting setup with lots of adjustments.