Technical Help-Cooling Issue

So I need some help please. I’ve got a .030 sbc 327, double hump heads with three deuces, a mild street cam, stock water pump, an electric puller fan and never had cooling issues. Just swapped cams for an Isky 292 and added a summit electric water pump. Now I have overheating issues. Jumps to 200 real quick and if I turn on the fan it goes up 20 more degrees. I don’t have a clue, thinking the fan thing is a gauge or sending unit issue but it’s still running hot. Has an edelbrock high flow 180 thermostat. Any ideas? Timing issues?

 

Here is a picture of a mistake I made after installing a cam. It started overheating afterward. I installed the intake gaskets backwards thus blocking the water flow. Something to think about.

 

OMG! I hadn’t thought about that

 

We use open gaskets on both ends and run -6 lines up to the thermostat housing and never have a cooling problem with SBC.
Electric water pump is a 1 speed all the time along with a fan adds quite a few amps to your charging system. Make sure it’s in good shape..

 

Make sure you hooked that electric fan up with the correct polarity. Reverse the wires, which is an easy mistake to make, and it'll run backwards.

 

Can I ask why you needed an electric water pump and fan?

 

So you changed a bunch of things and it runs hot now?
I guess the gasket issue could be a possibility.
is it boiling over?
Checked the temp with a contactless thermometer?
If not a gasket issue then it’s somewhere in the other stuff changed.

 

Please post the corrected results.
Terry aka dirt t

 

electric water pumps are for drag racing 1/4 or 1/8th mile at a time and being able to leave the pump running in the pits to continue to circulate water after a run to help cool the engine down. Put a regular water pump back on it. it will solve your cooling issues.

 

Had a student with an alternator issue last month.
He said his alt gauge was “acting funny, moving around a lot” and if that means he needs a new alt.
My first question was what was the last thing he did to the ride.
He said he installed an amp the day before.
I told him to check everything he touched installing the amp.
Miraculously, the alt gauge stopped moving around after he corrected some issues.

 

You are going to have to notes & diagnose ,
You changed to-many things @ 1 time,
Start with timing, most sbc like 13-20 degs of initial,
Air in system
Water pump moving coolant to faster to slow,
Adjustment of cabs (new cam)
Verify thermostat,
Electric fan sensor location, (different spots, different readings)
In head best location between most 6&8 or second spot 1&3
Fan not enough CFM's (fan, manufacture, does matter)
intake, gaskets

 

I'm curious also, there should be plenty of room for a conventional engine driven fan and I thought electric water pumps were designed for race cars. HRP

 

You see electric water pumps in a large variety of vehicles now but I wouldn’t trade the dependability of a mechanical pump to demand more from the alternator. But fifty years old is new to me…

 

You’re going to have to go back over the last things you did. I can almost guarantee that you’ll find it and it will be obvious.
For an example from another shop. A Hot shot engine builder delivers a high stepping small block. Shop owner another hot shot waits a few months to install it. Runs and over temps in under 5 minutes. Both these assholes argue about who fucked up off and on for months while my buddy just wants his 62 Chevy back. Two very talented hot heads and instead of figuring it out by basics they sidestep the car into the corner. Finally it gets to me due to a lot of crying and begging. Took me 30 mins to find a radiator bung plug in the lower hose. Left in the radiator and hose installed over it.
Baffled by dumb shit

 

I would think with the electric water pump you wouldn't use a thermostat. Maybe just a restrictor.

 

Cmon Michael, what’s up? I know you’ve been reading this.