Thinking of getting headers for my latest project,1940 merc custom, I have never run headers. I been looking at chrome (i like chrome)block hugger headers for my 350,but I understand you would need special spark plugs?. Your comments are appreciated.
You say chrome, I say ceramic coated or stainless. Chrome really isn't a protectant and it turns blue. I've had ceramic coated shorties on my ride for thirty years with no problems what so ever. If they're still available, I recommend Stage 8 header bolts, designed not to back out. That's my opinion.
I have read where you coat the inside of tubes on chrome headers . Fire up engine to heat the headers so the coating hardens and it will help with the bluing effect.
That's the stuff they sell for Harley exhausts. It works up to a point, and it has to be coated onto new, unused pipes or it won't stick. But both chrome and stainless will discolor from heat, ceramic won't.
Ceramic is nice. It does last "forever" But to me blued headers on a hot rod just look cool. like a form of a badge of honor for being driven. I have headers on my T bucket that are probably close to 50 years old. I used wool and polish and got them freshened up a lot from how I bought them. Of course they're reblue now, but I like it
My choice for headers (and exhaust pipe) is ceramic, because of durability and radiant heat reduction.
Headers vary but I’ve had three different sets block huggers on 350 Chevy’s and have never needed special spark plugs. I’ve had chrome, coated and stainless and although they all age differently I like them all.
I have ceramic coated headers on all my cars a the moment. Very durable and shiny. Plus you can clean them up with some Mothers if you stain them.
Ceramic is great, the stainless and chrome do turn blue as stated above. I don't mind, it buffs out. As for plugs - Accel makes a shorter plug that I have ran for clearance. NGKs are shorter than some of the delco's too. Might have to compare some and see which one works, does the header manufacturer have any recommendations?
You can get your SS headers ceramic coated as well. I did for an OT car, necessary? Probably not, but easy to keep clean.
I have owned chrome, ceramic and stainless headers, ceramic is my preferred coating. I believe that there are different types of ceramic coatings, I had the six piece headers on the Cyclone done by Jet Hot. I am impressed by the quality, durability, and look of the coating. Jet Hot was very good to work with, great communication, on time delivery, and packed extremely well in a heavy box when they were returned to me. The coating was complete, inside and outside of the tubing, the slip joints on my headers went together perfectly. Jet Hot stands behind their work also.
I agree on JH, have had two sets done from them now, they offer different levels of coating, also standard and custom colors as well. Beware of buying pre-coated headers, some processes just don’t last.
I have several sets of headers for my coupe. Two sets of zoomies mostly for the track, one set ceramic , one set in VHT white . My headers for the street are ceramic . The ceramic coated sets have held up great for years. The more I polish them the shine comes right up like new.
The big tube ceramic coated headers in my Comet might radiate some heat but the Hush Mat I have installed prevents it from entering the cabin. I shot the floor with my infrared temp gun and it shows almost ambient temp. My wife took her shoes off and told me the floor was not warm at all. Perfect.
I wouldn't buy block hugger headers that won't allow the use of stock spark plugs, no matter what finish they have. A well designed and built set should allow any spark plug. With block huggers you shouldn't have to worry much about heat on the floorboards. As for the finish, my early sixties style roadster is getting chrome headers, my F100 got stainless block huggers and my Buick powered Morris Minor Woody got good old black VHT. Each was chosen to fit the style and era of the build. High temp ceramic coating is by far the most practical but to me it's just too modern looking. I chose stainless for my truck because it was a workhorse, the polished stainless did turn yellow and a little blue. I will paint the inside of my roadster headers to slow the discoloration but I agree that the discoloration is sort of a badge of honor, proof that it's not a trailer queen, it gets driven. There's just something about chrome headers.....
Or if not blued, you stay after them Had to yank the chain. Back in the day of street bikes and chrome headers, I found out that manufacturers jetted the bikes lean, which would blue the pipes. Why they did that, no clue. Then getting into automobile headers I read/learned that you were supposed to richen up the mixture with headers. Now days you can get AF meters to get it right, back then was looking at plugs
Hello, Those headers in your photo look like the old style Hedman Headers for an SBC motor. We had some friends that put on chrome header versions on their SBC motors and after a couple of rousing races, the discoloration started. It was hard not to get it discolored. With that in mind, we painted our SBC headers a heat resistant black and were done with worrying about discoloration. Motorcycle exhaust pipes were also in the mix as the chrome was a necessity. Everyone wanted chrome pipes and no one ran any other paint product on those pipes. Then later on in the years that a product called Simichrome came out, that helped taking away most of the discoloration, but not all. These days it is Flitz, but the idea is the same. As others have stated, ceramic coating does one step better with little to none in the discoloration process. But, ceramic coating was not around in the 50s-60s as a product for hot rod/drag race guys/girls. So, if originality is what is important, deal with the discoloration as best that you can. Jnaki The other question you had was using short plugs. In those early SBC motors and even the later 327 motors, any plug could be used. The key was a 90 degree wire clip for the tip of the plugs. That kept the wires away from the hot headers. Also, those wire separators were also necessary to keep the plug wires away from the header pipes. Whether you go under the headers or over the valve covers, those 90 degree clips and wire separators are a necessity. YRMV
Good to know about ceramic coating lack of discoloration. I have a set of new/old headers with the stickers still on them for my Chevy 250 six and thinking about the best way to protect them.
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