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Hot Rods Has anyone sucessfully Drag Raced w/ a Triangulated four bar setup ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Littleman, Nov 7, 2009.

  1. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,617

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    I have plans to do away w/ the softer bushings,removing any wasted movement not to mention the up keep of keeping the others swapped out for new ones all the time to limit their movement is not worth it, but can be done this way....It needs to be more purpose built for the Strip!...the plastic bushings only ended up in the bars to get me to Detroit the year I took it and robbed from something else..........I am looking for a 60' of 1.36 or better once all sorted out.......My last pass in my Model A Pickup clicked off a 1.300 before it broke and I had to lift just after the launch and get back in it..It will be interesting to see the difference between the SBC and the Hemi's performance.........The Coupe has a transbrake the Truck did not.The Truck did rather well for what it was..................Thanks, Littleman
     
  2. stlouisgasser
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 673

    stlouisgasser
    Member

    I think your 4-Bar set-up has great drag-strip potential. I've seen 4-Bar set-ups where the trailing arms are mounted with Single-shear bracketry and that scares the shit outa me. Yours looks to be in Double-shear so should be no problems there. I'm not sure what to think of those steet-able rod ends though. I think I would like to have a high-quality regular Heim rod ends in those locations with spacers on each side of the rod end. I would string-out your imaginary intersection point about 3-4 foot from the rear axle housing. Remove your passenger side upper trailing arm, set your pinion angle ONLY with the Driver's side upper arm(I'd shoot for about 3 degrees), then re-install the passenger side upper arm and then shorten that particular arm only one full turn (hopefully it's RH and LH threads on opposing ends). I'm also a big fan of Air Lift Drag Bags in the passenger side only to give it some more Pre-load. If it's coil-overs.......just turn the spanner nut to compress that passenger sider rear coil to a shorter installed height than the driver's side.
     
  3. super plus
    Joined: Dec 14, 2006
    Posts: 566

    super plus
    BANNED

    Preload is set by the top bar Right or left ,springs support the car only, with a trans brake you will now shock the rear tires ( a hole different ball game)
     
  4. holeshot
    Joined: Sep 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,519

    holeshot
    BANNED
    from Waxahachie

    heyLITTLEMAN...ofcourse they work, and your shorter rods are even stronger! that's one fantastic frame you built. WHAT a beautiful hotrod! man O man O your going to have a ball. she's going to come out of the HOLE streight as a arrow. and the new horse power, well forget about it! HA! call me POP...or the old FART!
     
  5. I worked with and for Dick Gazan of Gazan Racing Products where the Art Morrison A & G body kit came from originally (Gazan sold it to them in the early 90's). We built kits for many 8 sec. and slower cars in the early days of "Fastest Street Car" shootouts. You'll be just fine. The cool thing is you don't need a track locater, however I would incorporate a race car type sway/torsion bar.
     
  6. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

    What did you decide to do Dave?
     

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