So, i found an old set of ansen 5 spokes for the frint of my car. It needs .62 diameter shank on the mag style lug nuts. They are 1/2x20 and all i find ate .68 diameter on the shanks. Does anyone know where i should look for this?
Try Lug nut king in California . He has or can find some oddball stuff, nice guy .https://www.ebay.com/str/lugnutkinggroup
The only ones with a .62" diameter shank I'm seeing are for the old unifit ET mags, but those have a tapered seat to seat in the washer.
There's a fair selection in tapered seat type lug nuts in that size, maybe a countersink with the right angle would be the easiest solution.
I don't know, I can't see the wheels. I doubt it would make a difference though. I wonder if the wheel material is up to that? Seems to me that aluminum wheels all used shank nuts with washers, until they finally started using aluminum that was strong enough to survive with tapered nuts. I'm just asking a question, I don't know the answer.
The modern aluminum wheels with tapered seat nuts don't have that much material at the lug holes from what I've seen. While the flange is thick, by the time they countersink the nuts there's maybe only 3/8" thickness left at the actual seat. To be honest, I was surprised it was so little. If you don't get carried away with the countersink and get a nut with a shank as long as possible it should be fine. Whether this is easier/better than drilling the lug holes out to .68" is the question. I would think it may be easier to maintain hole centers with a countersink vs drilling, but maybe not.
Here are the wheels, and the old airheart brake setup i want to run them on. I can drill them to 11/16”,I just thought if i can find the right lug nuts, why not use them.
Jim Trying to drill out only 1/32"/side,1/16" total with a regular bit is touchy, might try a reamer instead. You'll get a rounder hole and not go too far oversize which is highly likely with a drill bit.
There isn't a whole lot of meat on those wheel centers...but still, it's only 1/32 you're removing. Another option is to stick normal 11/16 shank nuts in a lathe and make the shanks smaller. Either way, you probably want longer studs.
Are you sure that you have 1/2" diameter wheel studs ? If you were to use a .62 outside diameter lug nut you wouldn't have a lot of wall thickness for the shank of the lug nut. .62, minus .500 ( 1/2") = .12 divided by 2 equals .06, or 1/16 " of wall thickness. Is that enough to be safe ?, or possibly cracking, or splitting the shank of the lug nut ?
@JimSibley I just went through the same issue although mine are 7/16" GM. I have a pair of very hard to find Crestline that used the small shank so instead of taking chances with expensive wheels I took them to the machine shop and set them up on the mill to the correct bolt pattern and enlarged the holes to the correct size. Took more time than a drill but I know they're correct. With yours being 5 1/2" bolt pattern I wouldn't want to take any chances. If those are Ansen and 5 1/2 bc they're kinda rare also. What width are they ? I've not seen Ansen with the pointed spokes like that. Do they say Ansen on the back ?
Plan 1: turn down a few lugnuts and see if you like that solution. If not, Plan 2: ream the holes on your vintage wheels to accept available lugnuts.
They have no markings, the guy i got them From said they were ansen, but i dont know for sure. They are 15x6 and they are 5x5.5, that is all i know.
Ansen's from the period always said Ansen Gardena, CA on the back and early ones even have ser. numbers. Still cool with a 5 1/2 bolt pattern can you post a picture of the back side it may help identify them.
Well, I manned up and drilled them to 11/16”. As usual, squirrel was correct. I will post pics as soon as i have them on the car.
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