Technical Hard chop: sitting on the chopping block

I am not a panel beater, but I have always wondered why most do it the way described below.
To my mind, your way detailed above, is the more logical way.

Thanks for all the great detailed photos.

 

Anyone see the problem with just laying the post back and not the whole windshield surround?

 

Possibly. The screen frame fit into the apperture at the bottom isn't going to work well, and / or the rubber lip seal isn't going to lie well on the body at the cowl.

Tricky using pics that aren't chronological!

Chris

 

Not my car. Just showing what some people do on their chop. This technique will cause the ends of the windshield to stick out because it will be hitting in the center.
Just noting something to watch out for.

 

Is it fair to ask which hammer and dolly you used, thanks.

 

Very nice work, not your first rodeo.
You mention the rear window angled forward 3/4"? Can you expand on that?

 

That's a given. Anytime you're working with a panel that has 4 sides that must sit flat against it's mating surface any change in its position Must include all 4 surfaces as in how you are doing on your project. Well done, so far. So far I've only questioned one thing but sure when you get to it I'll understand the why. Keep up the quality work.

 

On a straight chop the rear window appears straight up and down, or even appears to lean backwards at certain view angles. I will lean the back window forward kind of like a 33/34 ford, but not that much.

I’m going to follow the forward lean of the B-pillar for my back window.

 

Great thread so far!

 

Me likey….

 

I was close, but no cigar! What you're describing is the same as what happens when laying back a roadster screen. A little isn't noticeable, but go too far.......

Chris

 

Impressive work.
Impressive work shed as well......reminds me of my time working for a steelwork fabricator here in the UK many years ago

 

Working on the lower windshield/dash brace. The one that tie the A-pillars together. Since my A-pillars lean 11 degrees back now, I needed to modify this brace. No one ever shows this on their chops.
Here I marked the point where it needs a pitch change

 

Then cut so I can adjust it to fit the A-pillars.

 

Then shape it to fit the A-pillar and weld in. This is an important step. It re enforces the cut where the pillars were laid back and supports the lower windshield. It also keep everything in align. I have 100% of the strength back

 

Next I test the upper header brace to see where it needs to be modified.

 

Here are the modifications made to the header structure. I had to change the pitch so it fits the laid back windshield.

start by figuring out the new pitch.

 

Then mark where to cut and where to bend. Then reshape with hammer and dolly, weld back up.

 

Then install the header and weld it in. Something you can’t even do with a stock Brookville body.
So is there any structural strength when the main header is barely welded to the skin of the windshield surround?

 

My only question is how did Ford screw or nail this part of the header to the wooden structure above the doors.

 

I can’t even tell what Ford did there. I have two hole is the steel header where I can put small lag bolts in.

 

After reading this I went back to the first page and read down a ways looking for information on who's Body you actually are working on. I didn't find a Brand Name. Is there a reason for that or did I just miss that information? Whoever makes it sure stepped up the quality of reproduction. I admire the fact you are doing a total reconstruction modification to the Top instead of just removing a section in order to achieve a lower profile and to hell with a quality job.

 

I bought an unassembled Brookville body.

 

It's a Brookville that's been assembled from flat pack by 65standard. I think he's still in need of doors, but in the meantime is doing a superb job of it.

Chris

 

Thank you both. Now the picture is a bit clearer. Quality work there Tony. Don't stop now.

 

Man, that's a bunch of work for that subtle change on the windshield pitch... and it makes an incredible difference... well worth the effort. That's gonna look so cool!

 

Have the wood structure all in around the door and windshield. I secured the header to the wood with 1” lag bolts.

 

After many test fits of the windshield surround, I was finally happy with it. Primered the back side and set it in for the final time.

 

I scribed where to trim and started to tack it in.

 

As you can see, there are no pie cuts to fill in.