Surfed since I was 9, skateboarding started at 5, Learned to surf at Newport 15-18th streets. Surfed a lot in High School at Trestles, T-street, San Onofre and Salt Creek. Lived in Hawaii for 2 years and surfed all over Oahu-Sunset, Haleiwa, Makaha, Diamond Head, Pyramid, KMCAS south. Lanai, Maui. Hilo and Kona, Big Island. I once surfed with sharks on Oahu, that was weird, the locals said the sharks weren't big enough to head in, so we stayed out. I used to go to every ASP contest I could (California/Hawaii) and met a lot of pros from the 80's and 90's the 1990 Eddie Aikau Quicksilver at Waimea Bay was the most memorable.... Brock Little getting tubed on a 50+ ' wave......I was there, it was unreal surf I was also there when Todd Chesser died and went to his memorial, one of the coolest surfers ever. Who remembers the movie from 1983 "In search of Animal Chin" Rabbit, Kong, etc....???? How about 1988 "North Shore" with Turtle the wanna be shaper......??? Haven't been out for 3 years and I don't have a good excuse......
Heading to Cocoa Beach tomorrow morning. Looks like some smaller stomach to shoulder high glass. Nothing radical, just some fun longboard waves. I'm pretty stoked. I haven't been out in a month.
The roll bar was originally installed for noggin protection. I found a new use for it recently when we headed to the ocean. Ya gotta improvise when space is limited. Surfing Cape Cod and coastal Maine and lovin' it!
check out some of these shots from the LIFE images thread... http://images.google.com/images?q=surf&q=source%3Alife
Hey Farmer -- I can relate to Bolinas. Surfed there alone once and it was one my scariest go-outs ever. Deep, lots of water moving around. Not sure WTF was underneath me. My dad built me my first board in 1962. He was messing around with fiberglass and had built a sports car body a few years earlier. The board was a piece of shit, but it hooked me for life. Been surfing pretty seriously for 46 years, that's why it takes so damn long to finish a car. Surfed up and down the West Coast, Mexico, Costa Rica, Florida, the Islands, Fiji, Portugal, Spain, Morocco and once spent 6 months in Biarritz. I've been in Santa Cruz for 25 years now and surf the eastside. My wife and I have a little getaway pad in Hawaii too, great warm water spot for an old haole. I thank my dad everytime I paddle out. Between surfing and hot rods I don't think I would have gone as many cool places and met as many great people. Probably never would have built my '38, either -- By cruzpch at 2006-01-30
Tanker surfing!!!! http://www.swellinfo.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=browseimages&c=15 <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/C5PsF7y1Jdk&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/C5PsF7y1Jdk&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> Something I wouldn't mind trying, but being in the shipping channel is seriously creepy. BIG fucking sharks follow those ships waiting for them to dump food waste & whatever.
Did anyone get out this past week in SOCAL. DEL MAR and LA Jolla was pretty decent. Water was int he 60 's still!
Coldest I have been in was 34 in VA BCH. FukDAt! Fortunately it will only get down to mid 50's here in SOCAL .. I was actually sweating in a full the other day...but I would rather be warm than cold. I do need a cap though. I shaved the head and damn the water seems colder. I concure JAY....it is going to be a great winter. Water was glass and clear as hell. Atleast 15 feet visibility. This winter is going to be great!
The Jalopy Journal
