Technical Halibrand Spinner removal HELP

Hi Members,
I need help to remove Halibrand spinners on Halibrand Kidney Bean Sprint wheels. I recently purchased Duane McKinney's personal '32 Roadster with the wheels installed mated to 14 year old tires. I obviously want to replace tires however I am having trouble with removing spinners. I talked with Sarto about a tool but he has not yet completed the Halibrand 3 wing spinner style. I am located in North San Diego County and would really appreciate the support. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Best,
Roger Johns
760-468-2409 Cell text OK

 

Thanks-- I have been tapping with a heavy hammer and wood to no avail. I will get a lead hammer but they are stuck hard.

 

? Left hand threads?

 

You might try dripping a bit of something like Kroil onto the exposed threads and allow it to sink in overnight, then try again. When you put them back on again, a little bit of anti-seize on the threads helps in the next removal. Aluminum to aluminum threads can get pretty galled up. Ask me how I know.

 

Would they be left hand thread on one side? Can you see the threads in there?

 

Not familiar with those knock-offs but the ones on corvettes you pop off the center cap and then pull the roll pin that locks it in place

 

Not an expert here, but might these be reverse thread?

 

Yep ! Left hand on left side ,and lots of anti seize and I mean lots ,if you get em loose ???

 

Spinners are labeled with magic marker Driver side has R and Passenger side has L for right hand and left hand threads respectively. Also I have been using penetrating oil for days hoping to loosen. No luck yet.

 

I think that you’re going to have to use more force than just a little tapping with a hammer and a block of wood.

A lead mallet and some good solid blows should get it done.

 

I disagree with the spinner directions mentioned previously, I believe driver is right hand thread and passenger is left hand thread just as marked on spinner. Anyone out there join me?

 

The correct direction:-

• To tighten - Clockwise on the driver side and counterclockwise on the passenger side
• To loosen - Counterclockwise on the driver side and clockwise on the passenger side

 

I'm just going to give it a bump because I am pretty sure that at least one guy on here has a set of those and there may actually be a member that knows that car pretty well.

 

drivers side

 

I agree with the wheel spinner direction, most never saw Duane's car he was building before he passed. It was incomplete but had a lot of work done including the wheels. Found a lot of loose nuts and bolts, too bad the wheel spinners were not some of them. Thanks for all your support. someone has to know about the wheel removal.

 

Once you determine exactly what direction the spinner needs to be turned I would try a heat gun on the spinner. Try to concentrate the heat only on the threaded part of the spinner
then go at it with a lead hammer. Kroil will also flow better if the threads are heated. Obviously using anti seize for assembly will stop this issue in the future.

 

This German made tool for Hali knock offs, distributes even force on all 3 tribars (decreasing the chance for wing breakage or distortion). It has a 1" drive for breaker bar removal and torque wrench installs.

I bet those are hammered on super tight as most installers are probably actually over torqueing their wheels when they wield a lead hammer to make damn sure they don't come loose. We don't guess torque when installing engine or suspension parts. Why guess on wheels!?

The tool is not cheap but neither is a wheel coming off. I'd chalk it up as part of the cost of running knockoffs. When the wheels go back on they can be torqued to proper specs and you'll rest assured that you're not driving on under or over torqued wheels.




https://www.oldtimertools.de/Vehicl...r-Removal-Tool-for-Cobra-HALIBRAND-CHA-3.html

 

When I bought the knockoff wheels on my roadster the instructions said left hand threads on the right side and right hand threads on the left. Seemed backwards to me but I was told by the wheel company the spinners can come loose if they are reversed with right on the right and left on the left. I put them on wrong and am getting ready to change them.

 

I tend to not use right and left when referring to a cars side, instead, the common (U.S.) terms of passenger and driver, many an average Joe might think it means facing the front of the car.

 

Unless you are in a country where we drive on the left hand side of the road, like quite a few members here

 

Yes, left, driver side, US based automobile…..lol.
My kids BF came over and wanted help putting some wheels he’d just bought. Chromed spoked 18’s with rubber band tires. Mercy. These had an adapter that bolted in place of the wheel, then knockoffs help them on courtesy of the lead hammer.
The adapters were stamped L and R I put the L on the US Driver side left R on the other side.
Now the thing is, the L adapter used the right handed knockoff, and vice versa.

 

The spinners should be Right Hand thread on Left side of vehicle (drivers) and Left hand thread on Right side of vehicle (passenger). They need to tighten opposite normal wheel rotation.

If they are aluminum spinners, there is a possibility of thread galling if installed with out anti seize. Had a Cobra in the shop with pin drive wheels that that happened to. Had a hell of a time getting them off. Had to replace the spinners and adapters due to the threads being damaged.

Go to vintagewheelsus.com

Go to tech info, it will tell you proper installation.

Bill

 

Could it be they are marked for the side of the car they belong on and not the thread direction?

Bill

 

when I worked at Jaguar we had a THOR hammer
Rawhide on one side lead on the other

and a wooden “ wrench “ to pound on to save marring the spinner or knock off .

 

If they are real knock offs and the hubs are on the car correctly, you always hit the spinner toward the rear of the car to tighten (ear on the up side of the hub). That means left side should have right hand threads while right side is left had thread.

If the spinners have been on for 14 years he is going to have to beat the crap out of them to get them off. I've even bent and ear before taking one off. The longer they are on, the tighter they get. I have a small, heavy knock off hammer with copper inserts that does a pretty good job. I got it from Speedway Motor back in the 70's. Any big, heavy hammer will work except a dead blow. Dead blows are worthless on knock offs.