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Technical Grinding noise when I pull the car out of the garage.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Al, May 9, 2021.

  1. jhexide
    Joined: Feb 23, 2012
    Posts: 317

    jhexide
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    READ THIS CAREFULLLY< DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS>>>>!!!!!!
     
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,399

    Budget36
    Member

    I think he told you backwards, or you maybe misunderstood. It’s a lower nut on a 9in you need a wrench for as a socket normally won’t work.
     
    Black Panther likes this.
  3. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,399

    Budget36
    Member

    You mentioned the tie rod being too long. If behind the axle, that would cause toe in. You also mentioned the ruts made. So question is, do you have a dirt/ gravel floor in your garage? If dirt/ gravel could the noise you are hearing be the front tires making a rut while moving forward.

    I also wonder about what you meant by moving the rotor over?

    I know everyone is jumping from the front of the car to the rear, so guess I’ll do the same;)

    You mentioned this started after installing a power steering set up, can you let us know what kit/ parts you used?

    Back to the rear end, have you verified there is oil in the housing?
     
    Blue One and redlineracer42 like this.
  4. Please don't use cinder blocks to hold up your car. Many people have been seriously injured or worse using those blocks to hold up a car. If you've used them before and had no incident you are now on borrowed time and pushing your luck.
     
    Fortunateson and redlineracer42 like this.
  5. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    I guess I could have said by moving the rotor over I could have had the wheel on same thing. The passengers side was set right where when turned to the left. the rotor, or wheel would turn Left. The Drivers side Didn't go far enough to the Left. Now it does. I lowered the tie rod end and did a few more turns. Now it looks right in both directions.
    Also was mentioned was not to use cement blocks. I also read on one site not to use Harbor Freight jack stands.. So what do I use??
     
  6. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    I bought a kit from Gearhead off ebay. Came with front power rack,bolts,pump, hoses, tie rod ends. I had to buy the offset bushings for it, and a belt and fluid..
     
  7. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    No.I don't have a a dirt floor. I have a wooden plank floor. I also have 3/8 ply wood on top of that.. I lost way too many nuts and bolts, and tools threw the floor before.
     
  8. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 5,554

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    If the bearing is that bad then there is a lot of metal inside the axle housing, the oil probably looks like metal flake paint. The oil at least needs to be drained and replaced. I would probably flush it with diesel fuel before refilling. Good luck, I've opened up axle housings out of wheel loaders that have failed bearings, removed the both axles and the 3rd member and flushed the housings out as best as I could with solvent and compressed air, and still had metal shavings in the housing. It's very difficult to remove it all.
     
  9. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 6,399

    Budget36
    Member

    Quality Jack stands are not that expensive, but to add to that, HF did have a recall on ones that would/could fail. I might be going out on a shaky limb, but would assume HF has pulled all the suspect stands from inventory by now.
    I have my kids OT car on a set of HF stands, but ones I bought 20 or so years ago.
    I had to do some work on an OT car a few months ago, and with all my crap sitting in the air, I needed two more stands. I picked them up at autoZone, only difference I see from an HF set these are painted blue instead of orange.
    Now all my babble aside, just remember to never trust your life to a Jack stand. I don’t think your problem would require you to lay under the car and be in potentially harms way.
    So just get a pair, if they fail, your car will be damaged not you.
    Also, keep a bit of light pressure with your Jack where the stand is placed. I’m such a sissy when I have a car up in the air, even with my pipe stands I trust 100%, I place blocks under the frame “just in case” if I’m crawling under it.
    I only use wood. You have to know that cinder blocks are made for holding weight in just a downward pressure, they are not made , nor do they withstand, and side to side motion with weight placed on top of them.
     
    Algoma56 likes this.
  10. Did this bolt back out?

    upload_2021-5-10_14-33-33.jpeg
     
    redlineracer42 and Atwater Mike like this.
  11. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

  12. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    I got low blood sugar, and had to quit for the day I am gone tomorrow, but be back on it on Wed.
     
  13. Buy your Jack Stands from NAPA.......................................!

    Just my 3.5 Cents

    Live Learn Die a Fool
     
  14. woodscaper
    Joined: Feb 20, 2011
    Posts: 58

    woodscaper
    Member

  15. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

  16. Ok, you have verified nothing is contacting the front wheels so I would return my focus to the left rear.

    As far as we can tell (based solely on what we have learned from you), you have determined that there is a grinding sound coming from the left rear axle. We have also verified it is not the brake hardware or brake drum that is causing the noise. At this point (still not understanding how a worn axle bearing could make the noises you describe), I would pull the drive side axle far enough out that you can actually see, touch and hear the axle bearing. If it is clearly the cause of the grinding noise, pull the axle completely out and get a new bearing and retainer pressed on. If the bearing looks and feels fine, push the axle back in and keep looking.
     
  17. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,160

    indyjps
    Member

    This is a great thread, Im on the edge of my seat wondering whats next.

    Al, can I buy ya a coffee and a banana, power thru, man.

    I guess Wednesday is OK too. :D
     
  18. Wrench97
    Joined: Jan 29, 2020
    Posts: 415

    Wrench97

    Also make sure there is nothing rubbing the driveshaft, when you spin the rear wheels in neutral the driveshaft also turns. I just find it hard to believe the wheel bearing went bad while sitting unless it is very rusty.
     
  19. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,592

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm open to a complete and 'first time ever!' type of surprise. I've had 'em before...
     
    TrailerTrashToo likes this.
  20. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    There is some surface rust on some of it, but not bad. I just got a little bit off the inside of the drums.
     
  21. TerryT35
    Joined: Jun 16, 2006
    Posts: 37

    TerryT35
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Did you rule out the U-Joints? Engine off, transmission in neutral,
    Move driveshaft up and down and side to side. If any loosness,
    bad U-Joint. Check both ends.
     
  22. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    Okay. After I go to Menard's and buy 4 jack stands, and get the back up on the drivers side. I will check the drive shaft. Put a lever on some wood, and check for travel in the axle. After that I will check back in..
     
    Center of the Galaxie likes this.
  23. BSTAVEM
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 1

    BSTAVEM

    It honestly sounds like you put the front pads in backwards. And you can’t just turn the tie rods in until they’re ‘straight’, this is a critical thing to get right. My advice is if you can’t problem solve this simple issue, and can’t get past ‘don’t use concrete blocks’, take it to a shop that knows what they’re doing.
     
    Blues4U likes this.
  24. You mentioned that the local college body shop program is going to paint it for you... Do they have an Automotive Technician program that you can contact? Possibly one of the instructors could help you trouble shoot (our maybe one of their wizz-bang students).
     
    SR100 likes this.
  25. I certainly would be there if I was not in Illinois!!!
     
  26. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 34,066

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Step away from the car. Find help.
     
    Blue One likes this.
  27. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    I have those same pads in that car for 25 years. They were done right. When I had manual steering they worked just fine. I even put marks on the tie rod so I would know where to put the new tie rod ends to, but after changing it over. I never counted turns of the tie rod ends. When I bring the car in in September. They will give it a alinement.
     
  28. Al
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 661

    Al
    Member
    from Duluth, Mn

    That is going to happen, but not til Sept.
     
  29. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 2,023

    Elcohaulic
    Member

    I never heard of using cinder blocks to hold anything up let alone a couple thousand pounds of car..
     
    Fortunateson and Blue One like this.
  30. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 7,146

    flynbrian48
    Member

    6 pages and nobody has said, "Turn the radio up." Jeeze you guys...
     

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