Projects Got the engine out now what

50styleline welcome to the crew...i like you welded with the harbor f welder..el crapo...but when you dont have the big bucks ya make do...in the future i will sell mine and get a big boys real welder good to see someone doing their best on a buget like me...will be watching for your posts

 

yea thats about where mine sit at thanks for taking the time to post it

 

It's tight but its in. The radiator had to be tilted a little so it wouldn't hit the hood. About a quarter inch clearance. Do you guys think I'm asking for trouble later by having it this tight?
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Glad to see you got the engine in . Looks like you're gonna have a crazy top rad hose on that sucker , lol . 1/4 inch of clearance is tight for sure . Maybe keep a close eye (and ear) on stuff , and hopefully everything will clear OK .

 

I'd hunt for a thermostat housing/outlet that had an almost straight up outlet. I've got one on the 250 in my 48 that is almost vertical. I have no idea what it was on originally though. If you are running the stock radiator the outlet off the old six might work.

 

O'Reilly has the straight up outlets on the shelf. I am more concerned with the lower. I don't want to kink up a universal one.

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Go to your local muffler shop and have a tube formed up out of exhaust pipe to work for your lower hose. You can use short pieces of straight hose to accommodate the vibration.
Will last for years.

 

Now that's a good idea. Thanks mike.

 

Looks like an awsome project!

If you want another option for routing your hoses, you could always make it up out of copper pipe. You can get all different sizes, fittings, etc. and you'll never have to worry about it rusting on the inside like with steel pipe.

The steel route would be cheaper though.

Here's a set I made for the 283 in my old race car...

 

Shaun that looks badass. My issue is the bends. I will have to go around the filter to reach the lower port. What's weird is the old hose from the 235 almost fits the 250 but it has a 2" on one end and 1 3/4" on the lower end. I thought about trying to make that work with a sleeve on the radiator end. I just don't want to take shortcuts that will cause problems later.

 

Its not steam....just water vapor. It works really well and is a lot less messy than regular blasting.

 

Funny you mention the size difference... Before the 283 in that picture I had a Ford flathead in it, and made my pipes the same way. Except on the top pipes, the diameters were different. I think the engine side was 1 1/2" and the radiator was either 1 3/4" or 2". I used different fittings on the ends to get the right size. I took a peice of hose that fit the water neck on the engine, and a piece that fit the engine and matched them up to fittings. You can get different size reducing couplings, but you might have to look online. I was just lucky since my family has been in the plumbing business for 60 years and has a few fittings lying around

You could probably just make a short coupling out of copper to reduce the sizes, then just cut a little off of the hose. That might be the easiest route. I pretty much figured there wouldn't be any hoses that would be a direct fit for mine, and didn't want to bother digging around at parts stores. Plus I just like to solder haha

 

The next thing is the driveshaft. With the 200 4r I need to get an idea what to look for at the pick n pull. Can anyone tell me if the yoke also fits a 700r4 cause there are a few that seem to be the right length.

 

Search is my friend. If I looked at this right any GM driveshaft yoke except TH400 should work and if this not right please let me know.

 

This probably won't be an issue, but I know that Powerglide yokes are different, but I'm guessing there won't be many of those left at local yards...

Are you planning to shorten a driveshaft yourself?

 

Wish I had the skills to cut a driveshaft myself. There's a guy here in town with decent prices. I hope to be driving her soon.

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Well, after a brain-fart on the distributor she is running again. All she needs now is brake pedal assembly and plumbing, shifter, differential, fuel tank, and and and...... All that and yet I do see the light at the end of the tunnel.

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Here's some pics. Still have a lot to do, but I am so much closer to driving her.

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Do you still need to do the rearend? The 55-57 Chevy car rearend is a good choice, but not so common anymore. Also have heard the second gen camaro (70-81) rear is good for the 49-54 Chevy cars.

 

Gonna use s-10 with 3:42 gears. Just need to put it in the budget. The 3:73 gears would be ideal but I've only found them on the newer versions and they are to wide to run skirts. The 3:42 gears should do ok with th 200-4r just a little slower on take off.

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My suggestion for the radiator is what you've already done. If you're ever interested in building more power out of the engine, get rid of the "integral head". A casting number 3864883 head from a 194 CID six, milled .060, will bring the CR up to almost 10:1. Then use an Offenhauser or Clifford intake and Clifford headers. The earlier aluminum Powerglides used a course spline output shaft, the 66 on used the more common 27 spline shafft, the same as your 200R4, along with all TH350/250/200's, Muncie 4-speed (except for the M-22), and all the Saginaw 3 and 4 speeds. Finding a yoke should be easy. Measure the distance for the shaft, then look for one close to, or slightly shorter. You can use a yoke that you cut-to-length to make up for a few inches, they are meant for 4 X 4 off road use, and are made extra long. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Well it's not pretty but works. The shifter came out of an 86 Toyota and I was able to trim and use the old linkage

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56sedandelivery I hear you just wish it was in my budget

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The stock 200r4 should be fine. They put them behind a lot more engine than a 250. The bolt in the leaf spring is not centered under the axle on these cars and unless you correct for it the wheels won't be in the same place.

 

Sunbeam: I was lucky and found some perches at a trailer supply place her that were longer with extra holes. It's only gonna move the rear about half inch forward

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Gonna have to figure out an air cleaner. It has that damned integrated head and the mount is rectangular. Does anyone know of an aftermarket for this or do I need to get creative again.

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Great to see all of your progress! I am glad you finally got to this; I know you spoke to me about this a while ago. Keep it up!

I am going through my boxes of parts for your Apache that I will not need as I may actually be moving out to California.... Would you still be interested in any of these parts? If not they are going to be turned into Chinese hammers.

 

Let me know what you have. I'm very interested. Good to hear from you. Thanks

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Gonna have to get creative for an air cleaner

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The base and new filter

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