Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Gloss Black Single Stage Urethane

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blowby, Feb 12, 2019.

  1. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 14,476

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    reality check:
    customers would come to me and say I want the best paint out there, at the time I would spray Glasurite. DAMN GOOD PAINT! then the car would be used 12 weekends a summer, if that, never see salt, road spray rain , hail etc and stay in a garage the rest of the year. sears weather beater would hold up to that kind of "abuse". I used acrylic enamel on my '39 gmc beater, never garaged, worked and abused when I painted it in 1991. paint is faded but I can see a little shine left. acrylic enamel is good, urethane is better. lacquer worked for years.................how will it get used?
     
  2. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 261

    jimgoetz
    Member

    That's the point I'm trying to make. You could almost do that. If your willing to do the $8000 in labor for prep yourself.
     
    cad-lasalle, H380 and oliver westlund like this.
  3. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 3,458

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Centari on my 40 is 25 years old, still looks very good.
     
  4. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    This is Centari with 793 hardener done in 1998 in my garage no cut and buff just nibbed and polished that's how it looks today .i love single stage paints for solid colors IMG_20140413_102355166_HDR_optimized.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  5. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 5,731

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Speaking of sealer...my truck came to me with most of the bodywork done and in primer. No idea what primer was used. I've done a lot more work, replaced the bed and used Speediprime at first but the last couple coats have been 2k urethane primer over the whole thing. No reactions but I suppose I do need to seal it if I use urethane?
     
  6. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    For metallic colors, I do like a clearcoat also when graphics are involved to bury them this is Matrix brand color and high solids clear IMG_20150822_123536552_optimized.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Bandit Billy, jimgoetz and blowby like this.
  7. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    Not if you used a 2 k primer it will act as a sealer too but depending on color sometimes using the correct color base under the paint will give you better color and take less paint to hide sealers are great here plus they cover any sand throughs

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    blowby and jimgoetz like this.
  8. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 14,476

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    yep, matching the SS code of the paint to the sealer will compensate for "cheaper paints" lack of pigment.
     
    31Vicky with a hemi and bdynpnt like this.
  9. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    A white base under red, orange, yellow and white will make colors more vivid and take less coats to cover black under darker colors and metallics make the color richer and also cover better like tb33anda3rd said

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  10. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 261

    jimgoetz
    Member

    I cant paint good enough to color sand my metallic jobs. I'd have to clear it and buff that.
     
  11. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,261

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    If you use a very slow drying thinner, it will flow out well enough that you can skip the sandpaper, and just polish it if needed. This will also keep it from trapping humidity and blushing. We used PPG DT 105 year round, yes, even in winter.
     
    blowby likes this.
  12. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    Neither can the rest of us because of the orientation on the aluminum flake when you colorsand it smooth and flat you get a scale effect and you can see rings where you sand and polish a portion of the upper coat off and go into the next coat .now metallics can be nibbed and polished where you just sand off dust specks and polish though

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    zzford, jimgoetz and anthony myrick like this.
  13. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 674

    oliver westlund
    Member

    im here because i love building cars...I DO... cool cars are cool cars and if you pay someone to build you one or restore you one it doesnt make it less cool....but when you do it yourself its different. it feeds my soul...idk how to explain it better than that!
     
    jimgoetz likes this.
  14. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 674

    oliver westlund
    Member

    on another note....who out there knows? is there a special primer for lacquer? or is primer primer?
     
  15. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    A 2k primer will work under lacquer acrylic lacquer was my choice back in the day but it had a lot of shrinkage 2 k is the way to go

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    oliver westlund likes this.
  16. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,261

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    When painting single stage metallics, if you can put coats on wet-on-wet, it will go a long way toward eliminating the rings, or bullseyes, that show up when buffing. It is a learned thing, so be careful. Also cross coat in a more or less random pattern, not this way, and then that way. Try to keep the horizntal panels as wet as possible, and remember, those are also going to be the ones that catch the most dirt. Last, avoid the dreaded "Admiration Dust", in other words, stay the hell out of the booth unless you are spraying paint, and your buddies can stop and look tomorrow. I hate sanding and buffing anything, but it is much easier to sand and buff dry spots than runs, especially in single stage metallics.
     
    jimgoetz and blowby like this.
  17. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,261

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Also, while I am on this roll, get enough paint to put plenty of paint on the vehicle! Never put yourself in a place where you have to over-reduce your last two cups because you are running out of material. And do bend down there and get some paint on those rocker panels. It will probably take 1 1/2 times the paint that you want to buy, but if you end up with too much, you will have enough to maybe paint a hood or fender down the road, and it will stand a much better chance of matching. Do not be scared, everybody screwed up at least once.
     
    oliver westlund, 40FORDPU and blowby like this.
  18. Good, Fast, and Cheap...
    Pick any two, you'll never get all three.
    Want it shiney and durable?
    Shoot it in Imron and be done with it

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  19. bdynpnt
    Joined: Feb 9, 2009
    Posts: 354

    bdynpnt
    Member

    Yep and any one that says they haven't screwed up is a liar

    Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    jimgoetz likes this.
  20. gtokid70
    Joined: Jul 30, 2015
    Posts: 91

    gtokid70

    Well i have used imron for a few years, hard as a rock, can be done in flat to shiny and everything in between. Not badly priced but it needs a accelerator added as well as hardener and reducer

    Sent from my SM-A520W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  21. Poverty cap
    Joined: Mar 11, 2017
    Posts: 26

    Poverty cap
    Member
    from Amery WI.

    I have sprayed a few different single stage blacks, I've used Tamco blacks on different projects and think it's a good value priced product. The issue of wanting a black that does not have a brown hue is difficult to overcome with pre mixed products. I have used Omni or Limco single stage black that I had mixed using a BMW paint code because it had a hint of a a very dark blue hue.

    I think another thing to consider when choosing a paint is what kind of spray gun will be used, the higher solid paints in my opinion are easier to spray with a gun that atomizes the paint well without excess air pressure, having to use to high air pressure to atomize paint lessens the amount of paint transferred to the car.
     
    blowby likes this.
  22. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 5,731

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Yes, want a blue black, not a brown black. I wonder if this BMW Schwartz Black qualifies:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Schwar...ingle-stage-urethane-auto-paint-/391404867036
     
    Fordor Ron likes this.
  23. Poverty cap
    Joined: Mar 11, 2017
    Posts: 26

    Poverty cap
    Member
    from Amery WI.

    If you talk to the jobber your going to use ask what mixing colors are in the color, the black GM used for a long time had yellow and I think red in it giving it a little bit of a brown hue just to give you a idea.
     
  24. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 86

    Tri-power37
    Member

    When I paint a car in single stage urethane we always use nason ful thane . We only use it only in solid colours on metallics we always use chromax waterborne base clear . If we are doing fleet work in nason on ordinary driver type stuff we just paint it straight up . But if you want a nicer finish it works great if you put one nice coat on let it dry overnight - or longer until properly dry . Leave it all masked up - wet sand with 800 - 1000 grit don’t burn through but sand out texture . Put 2 or 3 more coats down . You won’t believe how nice it lays out and dust and dirt are almost none existent . Remember most dust comes from you or the car so wear a paint suit and thoroughly clean the car . This works with any single stage paint.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
  25. 46chevy
    Joined: Jul 19, 2006
    Posts: 371

    46chevy
    Member
    from reeds,mo

    I use Limco or Matrix on all my projects with great results
     
  26. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 261

    jimgoetz
    Member

    It seems like every time I paint something I go "damn, I never saw that happen before".
     
    raven, 427 sleeper, reagen and 2 others like this.
  27. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 725

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Nason Ful-Thane 400-01 is a really nice deep black single stage paint. You can buy a full kit with a gallon of paint, activator and reducer for well under $200 on eBay as well.
     
  28. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,190

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

    ya gonna get a million answers on brand
    the truth is preparation and application is more important than brand
    get your supplier to print off a tech sheet for more detailed info than whats on the can
    get the appropriate reducer for the temp when ya spray it
    use the appropriate spray tip size for the paint used
    get a filter that attaches to the gun
    air pressure needs to be set at the gun
    the rest is how well ya prepped it and spray technique
    Im a better buffer than sprayer
     
    jimgoetz likes this.
  29. N2hotrods
    Joined: Jul 6, 2010
    Posts: 113

    N2hotrods
    Member

    For black urethane I use Matrix MCU with hardner.
     
  30. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 86

    Tri-power37
    Member

    Doing body and paint in a place that is to cold is the biggest mistake . Putting filler on to cold ,bare metal panels to cold , primer to cold , masking to cold ,painting to cold - forget it . Proper body and paint must be done in a warm environment. I think the bare minimum temperature should be at least warm enough to comfortably wear a t-shirt... and pants .
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.