Projects Giant speedster project

Some say Conv. Belt? how much would you like? the shipping would be horrible tho

 

Long haul!

Remember The Graduate? I saw it in high school and I could never see what Dustin saw in Ann Bancroft. I mean was she really that hot compared to Katherine Ross? Anyway he drove this Alfa. So Gene, a good car buddy of mine asked me to drive to Atlanta Sunday to pick up this Alfa GTV with my rollback he bought out of a lady's back yard. You can't say no to a car buddy. But what a haul! No A/C! And Saturday we had to take the kids to Six Flags for their birthday. But FRIDAY I got to work on the speedster. It doesn't look like much but I got the wood arched piece behind the driver's seat installed and the trim nailers along the top and down beside the doors.

 

Jerry,
I have to say the 1966 Alfa Romeo Spider 1600 Hoffman drives in the graduate is also a lot cuter than that Alfa GTV.

Using the Graduate analogy;
Spider 1600 = Kate Ross
Alfa GTV = Anne Bancroft (as she looks today)

I started following your build thread just a few days ago but it took me seven + hours to read it from post #1 to where you are today. I build pre-1928 boat tail dirt track replicas but they're 'downsized' versions compared to your incredible behemoth. This is a monumental build and I salute your often remarkable perseverance!
Cheers, Jimmy

 

Jerry,

On your floor (& running board) covering; have you thought of diamond or pyramid aluminum like the original fire truck & some upper end cars would have had? Restoration Supply has pyramid sheeting but very expensive. McMaster-Carr has a selection of diamond surface sheet at much more affordable prices. See http://www.mcmaster.com/#textured-aluminum-sheets/=o1666w

My Seagrave has the original cast aluminum floorboards with a pyramid surface with about a 3/4" flat edge around each panel.

Your woodwork is looking really authentic!

 

Diamond Plate

Interesting--I'm thinking about it. Didn't do much except measure the cowl and radiator for some hood lace. I had a hard time finding some 3/4 X 1/16 thick stuff. Restoration Specialties had it. Also had somewhat of a hard time finding brass split rivets (at a reasonable price) Snyder's Model T supply 24 for $1.50. I did paint the edges and underside of the floorboards--brushed. Seems like we spray everything these days. I thought it'd be nice to brush something, like the old days.

Jerry

 

dang it
those curved corner parts should have their grain at a 45 degree angle to the side and back to avoid splitting ...
or use laminated beam structure ...
find beam parts near constrution sites as it is used as headers an floor trusses

or stack and laminate your own.... glue and clamped to shape

wish I was closer .. I do not want you to have any problems

 

Been lurking on Giant Speedster project for several years now and finally got myself together to do a reply. You are the first thing I look up every morning before breakfast here in the Philippines. I have learned a lot and can't wait to see that big red hood sitting where it is supposed to!

 

Jerry,
I brushed all my floor boards too. I then took the gloss and most obvious brush marks down with some 3M polishing compound. I used 'good ole' Rustoleum oil base right out of the qt. can. Important to let the paint cure for several days (or more) before attempting any hand rubbing. I followed that process up with some paste wax. End result is something that has an 'old timey' finish but it has a nice almost satin sheen that still looks brushed on and period authentic without that 'just painted' look.. Jimmy

 

No sign of the signboard

Yesterday I drove to the big independent hardware store in the next town over to buy some 1/2 signboard and they told me they were out and couldn't get any more. What?! Next to Lowes to find some kind of suitable plywood. They had birch but only in 3/4 and 1/4. No good! Last night I went web surfing. Home Depot had some 1/2 birch. But this morning I decided to stop in at North Ga Hardwoods, a big place here in lil ol' Cleveland that sells all kinds of exotic woods and plywood. They had some 1/2 American birch so I bought it. (not to be confused with Chinese birch) It's not as nice as the sign board, to me anyway, but it's just for seats so... I made the bottom for the jump seat and the back for the driver's seat then I started thinking about the driver's bottom. The more I looked at it the more I was convinced it was too narrow. The average seat goes almost all the way to the back of the knee and this one was way short. But to extend it meant the seat bottom was going to intrude on the door opening. Well, most car seats do--so big deal. I played around with some foam to see how high the seat would be and how far it would go. My camera batteries were dead. Hello bad cell phone pictures.

Jerry

 

Mashed potatoes with lots of butter.

 

That's "taters" down here.

 

we used a plywood used for concrete forms on our pontoon reflooring it has a covering "plastic"surface only edges and holes then need sealing

looks like the steering wheel is gonna be next huh huh huh

 

Disturbing pattern

I like making patterns. I make a lot of them. I made one for the pedal area and one for the butt separator. I like the upholstery in the first picture. It's a 1912 Gobron-Brillie 12 CV. http://ebillionairesclub.com/content/1912-gobron-brillie-12-cv The seat looks like it's do able--at least by me. I also cut out a new seat bottom. The interior is starting to shape itself in my mind. This is very important. I have to see it in my mind before I can build it. All the parts have to fit together in my head. There can be no loose ends. Well, maybe some very small ones.

Jerry

 

Bonus pictures.

I also glued some spacers on the firewall and played around with some foam on the seat. Feels good to get that off my chest.

Jerry

 

You could try doing some diamond tufting like this. If I can do it , so can you. No sewing involved. I used marine vinyl to withstand the sun and occasional rain.


http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w158/sscargo69/DSCN2918-1.jpg[/IMG]

 

You could try doing some diamond tufting like this. If I can do it , so can you. No sewing involved. I used marine vinyl to withstand the sun and occasional rain.
Okay, you got my attention! What do you mean no sewing involved? That's the look I what for my speedster seats but how's it done? jimmy

 

Sscargo-- I love diamond tufting. I even tried my hand at it to mixed results. I'm just not sure if I have the nerve to start poking holes in my leather. I also had trouble getting the thick leather onto the buttons. I actually have the button dies and press. Picked them up at Hershey one year. Are you in La Grange GA?

Jerry.

 

Firewall

After I got the firewall bolted in place I was eager to see something on it. Several years ago I bought some old coil boxes off ebay. They looked like the first picture. I wanted to use one to hide my semi-modern coil. One of the coil boxes had a key switch on it which I had already robbed for my 1914 REO. My coil fit right inside. I had to bend the coil mount and drill a hole in the side for the coil wire to come out. There's a nifty porcelain insulator that goes there. I think I'm going to Teslacize the box up with a few steampunk dodads. After that I made patterns for brass covers for the steering column and hood hinge thingy. Did I mention I love to make patterns?

Jerry

 

I'm in LaGrange Ill. I used marine vinyl and although I know you can do it, I would definitely go through a few trials with less expensive material, to get the proper pattern, before I poked holes in leather.

Mat

 

your button leather need not be so thick just the same color ...

start in the center and work out towards the sides ...measure ten times and still have plenty of extra to pull and manipulate

use rubber backed/ glued to leather to seal around the floor pedals and any intruding things thru the dash and floor

that box needs a sight tube..copper tubing coiled like still and a couple edison bulbs.. and warning plaques in language of your own make up

dang it what about the steering wheel ?

 

Jerry,

Most original cars had painted buttons rather than covered ones. I have done a few & have not found covered buttons that did not come apart in use.

The largest part of the diamond tuft job is working out the pattern, the leather will be much larger than the backing canvas to allow for the tufts & folds.

The seat pictured was missing the bottom cushion. The back leather is 109 yeas old, the seat bottom is 3 year old. It took me 3 days to stuff the leather with curled horse hair & almost a garbage bag full of hair. There is absolutely no sewing in this seat.

There is a fellow named Mel in Pa. who can supply the curled horse hair & has good leather at a reasonable price.

(Skill testing question of the day; why is it traditional to have the folds on the job go from right to left?)

 

I know Mel. I bought the wheels for my REO from him. He's got that Amish connection. Good guy! You're right about painted buttons. I do like button tuft. The other factor is that by '23 button tuft was going out of favor. Not sure why. There was an excellent video on youtube. It was silent except for music and showed everything step by step. Problem is I can't find it.

Jerry

 

I was going to ask if anybody knew of some Youtube flix on the subject. I'm still in the dark as to how you go about it. I have seen some impressive (sewn) seats made from sculpting tight cell foam to the desired shape for the cushions. Do you really need horsehair?
Jimmy

 

Hey, I think I found it!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEe_ZzJZ-gQ

 

Do they make those with Professor Fate on them? Or maybe Snidely Whiplash?

 

Macro problem

The pics aren't in focus because I can't get the macro feature to work properly. Basically, I think the camera is junk. So, I made up some places to hide nasty things. Then, after a visit to Don's for a piece of mystery wood (even he didn't know what it was) to use under the front of the drivers seat, I set to work carving it to fit. I like the idea of a slanted front seat. I'll have to do it with the cushion cause the seat is going to be flat. After I get the seat bottom in place I'm seeing a piece of sheet metal around the front to hold the cushion in place. Hey, you like my phone charger?

Jerry

 

Here's some of the EXIF data from the first three pictures posted above. They're all very slow shutter speed and the flash didn't fire on the first and third shot so some blurring might be expected if the camera was hand-held. Only the 2nd and 3rd shot look close enough to the subject to maybe require the macro setting but I don't see that setting in the EXIF Info (Scene Capture Type=Normal?).

But I do see the "Exposure Program" setting changing between Creative and Normal settings. Are you maybe changing the Exposure Mode when you think you're changing it to Macro Mode?

Exposure Time = 1/30"
F Number = F3
Exposure Program = Creative program
ISO Speed Ratings = 400
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2013-08-19 20:42:11
Date Time Digitized = 2013-08-19 20:42:11
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Shutter Speed Value = 4.89 TV
Aperture Value = 3.1 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F3
Metering Mode = Average
Light Source = unknown
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Scene Capture Type = Normal

Exposure Time = 1"
F Number = F4.6
Exposure Program = Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings = 80
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2013-08-19 20:50:13
Date Time Digitized = 2013-08-19 20:50:13
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Shutter Speed Value = 0 TV
Aperture Value = 4.4 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F3
Metering Mode = Average
Light Source = unknown
Flash = Flash fired, compulsory flash mode
Scene Capture Type = Normal

Exposure Time = 1"
F Number = F4.6
Exposure Program = Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings = 80
Exif Version = Version 2.2
Date Time Original = 2013-08-19 20:56:10
Date Time Digitized = 2013-08-19 20:56:10
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Shutter Speed Value = 0 TV
Aperture Value = 4.4 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F3
Metering Mode = Average
Light Source = unknown
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Scene Capture Type = Normal

For the most part I think you're getting some pretty decent shots for hand held and the slow shutter speeds with no flash.

 

NSA

The NSA is spying on my photos! I knew it. I'm going to wrap tinfoil around my camera. Around my head too. Okay, so you're saying the camera is smarter than I am and get tripod and more light. Mmmm. We'll see.

I had to hunt up some 1/8 X 3/4 flat hood lace which is hard to find. Restoration Supply had it. They also had 1/8 X 1.5 flat hood lace. I ground up an old pair of pliers into a split rivet splitter. Worked real neat. The holes in the radiator were real big but luckily I found some little brass washers in the bin rack I bought from Don a few years back. I also got tired of searching through every drawer and spent some time organizing. Cool! I need the hood lace on before I can put on the hood. I ordered some brass screws for the coil box cover. I think I may install the ignition wires while I'm under the hood. This may be complex as there's a fiber tube the wires go through. But the tube is cracked so I may replace it with brass. I might also install the magneto even though it doesn't really work it looks super cool. Then again, as you might have gathered, I might jump onto some completely different part of the speedster and start working there. You see, I'm not really in control of my actions.

Jerry

 

I may have to make the drive over to see this creation soon...

 

Epoxy the fiber tube together, or line the brass one with something - inner tube rubber? - to prevent chafing.