Getting ready to run my brake lines, need some advice.

I just have a few questions.

When routing the lines for the front brakes, should I tee the lines close to the master cylinder. Or, should I just run one line to the left side and tee off at the fitting that will go to the flex hose, and run the line over to the passenger side?

For the NPT fittings, do I need to use any kind of teflon tape? I know you don't use anything on flared fitting, but I can't remember what you do for the pipe taps.

Last, has anyone put a junction block of some sort between the body and frame to make it possible to just loosen the fittings and pull the body off without having to redo all of the lines?

Thanks.

 

It really doesn't matter, but do it the cleanest way, I like to try to keep all lines and wiring out of sight.

 

I ran mine from the m/c to a t, then one to the back and one to the front driver side, then a t and one to the passenger front. No teflon if they are flare fittings, you only need teflon on pipe threads.

I just ran mine on my T coupe it wasn't too bad.

 

I was worried that if I teed off at the fitting at the driver's flex hose, it might cause the drivers brake to lock up before the passenger.

 

it'll work the same either way... whatever looks best

 

It all works on pressure, so one brake won't work better according to how close it is to the m/c.

 

you can also buy teflon paste which will work fine and no little pieces to flake off .you can also wipe it clean once you tighten the fitting

 

Any pictures?

 

My advice is to NOT use any AN fittings on the thing what-so-ever! Its a pain to switch between that and NTP so stay away from the through-frame AN fittings.

 

I did the brake lines on my Willys and will share two tips. Use anti sieze on the fittings and use welding rod to mock up the brake line shape prior to bending the acual lines. good luck.

 

Bob is correct! Pipe thread needs no teflon, causes more probs that it cures. The threads are an tapered seal, anti seize lets you snug it up nice. The USAF has a good track record on NPT and anti seize on fittings........lie 60 years.

 

Simple is best--I know it sounds weird,but run lines down hill from the m/c as much as possible--no severe bends--Teflon tape on pipe fittings only--I use tape because it fills the threads better than the paste.I've done plenty of cars--for myself and for customers,and I try to use pre-made lines if possible. Less work--don't flare if you don't have to.

 

Invest in a good tube bender. I have about 5 of the things but I usually use the one with two handles that rolls the tube around the mandrel. I find that I ruin less tubing with that. The best advice I've seen in the previous posts is the welding rod trick, that may save you a lot of trouble and wasted tubing in the scrap bin.
Remember that all of your brake lines have to have flared ends, compression fittings won't work and aren't legal.

 

Double flare or they'll leak... guaranteed.

 

Also, if your master sylinder is below the floor get yourself some residual pressure valves. You'll have better stopping power.

Are you running drum/ drum? Or disc/ drum? If doing the second one you'll need an adjustable proportioning vavle as well. Some master cylinders have them built in if you don;t mind spending the extra cash.