Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

I had the body on a rotisserie for 6 mo. sealing up the floor and painting. I also painted the whole inside with Miracle Paint, then sprayed Lizzard Skin on the inside of the floor and firewall. I had the paint work completed and the body back on the frame for good around Labor Day. Thanks for the comment ,but there is a lot of time compression in the pictures.

 

I had to order filters for my fresh air pump, so the engine paint will have to wait a few days. I made a battery tray and ran #2 welding lead for positive cable and #4 for ground.

I used some thermal shield where the cables passed near the muffler ( inside the bottom lip of the main rail on the right) in the pic above. The middle pic shows the ground and the fuel line along the inside of the X.

 

I painted the engine today; well the short block anyway. I'm still working on the heads. I was doing some port work last winter and one is almost done.

Next is the masking off. It's a .040 over 327 large journal in a 68 0010 block with a Chet Herbert solid roller cam ( .500 lift).

 

Thanks for sharing. I am really enjoying your build.

 

Bubba.....I love me a sweet and clean undercarriage......and this one looks good under skirt....for sure! You may have waited long and lonesome.........on this build.......but you are definitely making up for idle time This is one fine '40.....you're building. W o W ! I love the updates. BAM and next....in short order....every time.

 

Thanks, I found that as things get actually finished, I'm enjoying it more.

I'm going to finish the dash wiring and take it out until I finish the body and priming. Winter will be here before I know it. Also I'm anxious to get the cylinder heads done and painted now, but that's after the rest is in prime. Thanks for your comments.

 

Enjoying this thread, thanks for posting

 

Great 40

 

Looks awesome! Can't wait to see it in color and the motor nestled in the rails!

 

great job--love them 40's

 

Here is a small update; I did some wiring and drilled the holes in the dash for turn indicators

The next pic is self explanatory; I had to step away for a couple of days after the drill chuck dented a brand new gauge.

While cooling off, I made a new bottom section and rebuilt the rag joint. I just finished painting it and I'll put the pieces together tomorrow.

 

Awesome history and awesome build.

 

I'm crossing my fingers that gauge won't work when you go to drive it and maybe Auto Meter will warranty it.


"I need my mirror boy"

 

The dented Auto Meter, looks like something that would happen to me. The next day I would be smiling happily because the dash didn't get scratched and just wrap a guarder belt around it.
I like the color, that 40 is looking good.

 

Nice thread of one of my favorite cars. You will enjoy your efforts when completed.

 

You'll forget about all of this fussing and aggravation once it's on the road and you're enjoying the fruits of your labor. This will be a nice one when finished.

Frank

 

I called Autometer yesterday and the repair will be less than $30, including shipping; that is the price of not being careful enough. Onward and upward.

I was tempted to leave it until the car was painted and assembled.... sort of a totem to Murphys Law.

I can't wait

Yeah, the Club had a color cruise this past weekend and I was in the back with the family sedan.
Woossaaaaah..... patience.

The ragjoint is finished and back on the box; I'm back on to the guage wiring. I used a rebuild kit from Autozone, so I'll see how long it lasts.

 

What is the color? It looks like a slightly purple dark blue with metal flake, I like it.

 

You've got some great skills. This '40 is going to be extra nice.

 

Thanks! My goal was to drive it, but I can't seem to not fuss with stuff, so I get bogged down in details
sometimes. That's what is going on with the wiring now. I'll have some pix tonight.

That's 67 GM Deepwater Blue. The camera flash brings out the small metallic.

 

Small update on the wiring. I to cut the harness for the headlights and install "bullet" connectors for each headlight bucket. I don't care for the plastic covered crimps, so I cut the plastic off and soldered them. It took longer to cut the plastic off than anything else.
I cheated and used shrink across the radiator so it would fit in the channel.

 

Looks good, pre war coupes are great looking cars.

 

Good story, great car. Thanks for taking us along!

 

Small update here. I took the dash and firewall forward wiring as far as I could until I get the engine in. That's next; finish and paint the heads, check pushrod length, mill intake. I also have to put the trans back together.
I made the dash wiring so it would unplug and be pivoted down for changes/ repairs
Here is the dash up in position ; the pic is from on my back underneath. It looks messy, but it will be easy to service. Some of you may notice the red wire hangin out; I crimped these and didn't solder. 1 didn't hold. I'll have to de-pin the connector recrimp and solder.

 

I like your dropping dash for maintenance idea. It is never fun trying wedge the old carcass between the seat and gas pedal to investigate a problem. It looks like unbolting the dash would be easier than taking the seat out too.

 

love the idea of the dash being hinged like that.awesome.did you use a actual hinge or does it just pivot on the end bolts?

 

Looking good.Keep the updates coming.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

I stumbled onto that while mocking up stuff. I thought about what I would have to remove to pivot the dash down. I think the garnish molding around the winshield and 4 screws at the upper edge of the dash is all it takes. Now that I have a plan ,I'll probably never need it ... and that's OK.

Yep, just pivots on the mounting screws.

 

I had to replace the wiper motor in my 40 a while back. No way to do it from below with out dropping a/c and still working around everything else. So I did just what you discovered. Dropped the steering column down abit, removed the garnish moldings and upper screws then loosened the two lower side bolts and pivoted the dash down enough to access wiper motor. Worked very nicely. I am enjoying your thread, keep up the good work.