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Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by joel, Sep 26, 2014.

  1. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here is the drivers side pix. I found a small dip just below the gas filler opening, otherwise just like the other side. I don't think I'll need any filler.
    IMG_0749 (504x800).jpg IMG_0750 (800x556).jpg IMG_0751 (800x483).jpg
    I should have done this last fall.
     
  2. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,660

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Looks great Joel! It's really nice to know that these parts are being made and that they actually fit!
     
  3. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    One of the things that was keeping me from buying the repo fenders was the idea that they might require some significant adjustment to my original body. If that was the case, why not put the time into the fenders I had? That's just not the case Sam.


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  4. rd martin
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 2,274

    rd martin
    Member
    from indiana

    wow joel, they fit nice! you have me thinking on mine. i have 3 nos fenders, but the right rear is rust free but ruff. i may say the heck with it and get a new one. your getting there! keep pushing!
     
  5. FOURTYDLX
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 645

    FOURTYDLX
    Member

    Bittchin fit. Congrats.
     
  6. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    It was pointed out to me that your fender is sell able so the cost of the new one is less and time is valuable. I can't say what to do, because each fender and the repair cost is different. In my case, I already spent major time on them and wasn't happy with the results. I'm glad you're still following the thread Rich.

    Yeah, I'm happy; they're close enough.
     
  7. rd martin
    Joined: Nov 14, 2006
    Posts: 2,274

    rd martin
    Member
    from indiana

    next time im out your way, i will give you a shout! i want to see the progress! i wish i was that far on mine!
     
    joel likes this.
  8. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    Give me a call if you're in the area


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  9. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    I spent a little time taking out the low spot on left rear. Tomorrow I will put some k38 on both. The sun will be out so I can spray and take them back in to cure.


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  10. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    Well, K38 on the left and no filler so far. I found a couple of spots on the right and I'll do that tomorrow.
    I added some pix of the fender I blocked just to see how straight it was. I had about 2 mils of DP to work with.
    IMG_0758 (800x421).jpg
    bare spots above the wheel opening.
    IMG_0760 (460x800).jpg IMG_0759 (509x800).jpg
    IMG_0762 (800x459).jpg
     
  11. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Small update.
    IMG_0769 (317x538).jpg IMG_0770 (320x588).jpg
    This is the 2nd application of surface; the first blocked out pretty good except I had to add a little glazing compound above the wheel opening and in the rear below the tail light at the bottom. I checked the running board fit and it's good. One more blocking and then sealer.
     
    PONTNAK123 likes this.
  12. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,660

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Nice work Joel! it is amazing to me how perfect a panel can look in primer until you start to block sand it. I am very tired of sanding on the mercury at this point. Finished the hood and well into the doors at this point. happy Thanksgiving!
     
  13. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,594

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    That's why some people never go beyond the primer stage! ;)
     
  14. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    You're right Sam, it's all in the prep. I had to back off a little and slow down; I was making mistakes and skipping stuff. I'm sure you guys are doing a good job; hang in there. HAPPY Thanksgiving.

    Probably so but I'm not there .....yet:)
     
  15. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    Here are some pix of the fender progress.
    IMG_0771 (487x800).jpg
    I added a little glazing in 3 locations, but I am not complaining about the quality of the fenders. They fit well to the body and the boards; they just need a little touch up.
    IMG_0772 (601x800).jpg
    This area was the least perfect.
    IMG_0773 (800x600).jpg
    There was a small "flat" here on both fenders and if you are using a polyester filler prime, you might not have noticed it.
    IMG_0774 (800x600).jpg
    2nd time on this side. There is a little "flat" about 4 in. up from the running board and 1 in. out from the body. I'm sure everyone watching is aware of this, but I'll say it anyway. Bolt the fenders to the body to do the finishing. I even tighten the bolts in the same order each time. ( yeah, I know, Anal)
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  16. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,660

    The 39 guy
    Member

    Thanks for the update Joel. I am considering buying at least one fender for for my convertible Sedan project.From what I have seen a little filler is needed on most new steel panels. Sure beats hammering,welding , filling ,priming and blocking an original beat up piece.
     
  17. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    I am in complete agreement Sam. I’ve seen original rear fenders on other people’s cars that were worth fixing, but not mine


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  18. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    Ok, I ‘m back on this project. I am going to finish the cowl vent seal channel. After trying to figure out a better way, I just started filling the pits with epoxy prime and sanding it down until I hit metal.
    [​IMG]


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  19. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,530

    1-SHOT
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    Did you get all the rust out of the pits ? If not you will have some problems later. You can use a good 2K primer and block it out. I like PPG NCP 270 S red or 271 S which is grey.
    Google the instruction sheet and you will see how good it is. It cost more than the cheap stuff but in the long run it's better. I have used it for about 20 years in a production shop and never had a come back from it.
     
  20. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,459

    CharlieLed
    Member

    In my vent channel I wire brushed it all down to bare metal and flowed in some KBS Rust Seal. Did essentially the same as you only I used the KBS instead of primer...sanded down the high spots and flowed more KBS into the low spots. Once finished the channel is smooth and filled with rock hard rust seal.
     
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  21. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    I used DP 40 LF and am going over it with K 36. I haven’t used NCP 270 or 271. I’ll check it out.


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  22. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
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    joel
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    1 shot, I didn’t know the NCP were isocyanate free. Good to know. Thanks for your input.


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  23. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,530

    1-SHOT
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    40 Ford Standard Coupe are one of my all time favorites.
    A policeman in our neighborhood when I was a teenager working in a body shop use to come by and moonlight there, I remember him selling coke bottles to save up to buy a 40 Standard Coupe in the mid 50's he kept it till he passed away a couple years ago. I asked Stoctan why he was not driving his Coupe one day and he said he needed to get it painted but it was not in his budget. So I sent a wrecker to his house and picked it up and took it to work and painted it black again. He wanted it to have the blue cast to it like Fords had , and told me not to use that black GM used that had a brown cast to it. Him and his wife were so happy when the wrecker brought it back and put it in his garage. He drove it regularly to Coffee un till he passed.
    I still have a 40 Sedan Delivery that I got in the early 60's I am the 3rd owner of it.
     
  24. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    I kind of did the same as you; only I used Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint after sand blasting the pits and dp40 over that. I've had good luck with that. I did the inside of my drip rails that way also. The miracle Paint doesn't build much, so, I go to epoxy primer right away.
    Good on you for stepping up for the old guy. I hope to get past the painting on this car and get to the driving. I can't think of anything I would swap my coupe for.:)
     
  25. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,660

    The 39 guy
    Member

    That's a good exchange of information guys! Glad to see you back on the coupe Joel! We are still priming and sanding the Merc here but have started to paint color on loose pieces.

    Good one 1-shot! You are a rare man in these times.
     
  26. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    Sam, you two are marathoners for sure. It's a little easier to get the shop up to temp these days. I'm still cleaning and organizing to make some room to work.
     
  27. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    I put one coat of K36 on the vent channel and my SAS pump stopped working; I am waiting on parts. I sanded what I had done.[​IMG]


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  28. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,530

    1-SHOT
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    What is a SAS pump? Down here it stands for San Antonio Shoe, very popular with people that stand a lot like Dr. And Nurses.
     
  29. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,517

    joel
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    SAS is a safety equipment supplier; I have a supplied air respirator system made by them.


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  30. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,530

    1-SHOT
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    Does the filter fun off a hose from the compressor or is it self contained with a charcoal filter?
     
    Algoma56 likes this.

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