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Projects Galaxie power to manual steering.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by uglysteve, Dec 5, 2015.

  1. Hey guys, I've got a 62 galaxie daily driver. since I got the car I've had nothing but bad luck with the power steering. I've rebuilt the control valve, replaced hoses. It stops leaking for a bit and then starts up again and now I keep getting water in the system somehow (snow probably). So I'm over it. I want to get rid of the power steering.

    I found this adapter.

    Has anyone ever used this part? I feel like that might be the easiest way unless there's a cheaper way to do it? Just looking for some advice/ideas from anyone that's done it. I don't want to have the car off the road for long since it's what gets me to work every day :D
     
  2. I'd bite the bullet and try and find a OEM manual center link. I tried one of these on a Falcon, and the internal springs kept crushing (getting shorter). That put slop in the steering...
     
  3. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 995

    Fabber McGee
    Member

  4. how much slop? every old car i've ever had has had sloppy steering. I might be able to live with it. I drive maybe 5 miles a day.
     

  5. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,248

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Keep in mind that the steering box likely has a faster ratio than a regular non-power box so your steering effort will be higher than a regular non-power steering car.
    I'm a bit confused by Crazy Steve's response.
    What is the procedure to "adjust" this joint?
    In my mind...the spring is there to absorb any slight amount of wear...not be part of the equation by allowing spring pressure to hold the ball cup.
    I would adjust that by tightening it as tight as possible, completely compressing the spring and then backing off the required amount for the tiny bit of clearance you need.
    No spring compression would be possible by steering input.

    Is that the wrong way to do it????
     
  6. I had a '64 that leaked badly.. just added fluid. I know you can buy a rebuilt cylinder but I bet they're expen$ive. Can the boxes be hooked up to a pump that runs off the engine? Which opens other cans of worms.
     
  7. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    I used the Borgeson adapter (same as the one you pictured, but paid less directly from Borgeson) on my Falcon for a while with no problems. I eventually changed the center link and tie rods to manual steering parts, but kept the original steering box.
     
    uglysteve likes this.
  8. Supposedly they shouldn't need adjusting (beyond the initial adjustment when assembled). But if one or both of the two springs loose tension/shorten, you get slop. If you disassemble one of these by removing the cotter key/plug, you'll find (in order as they come out) one spring, 1/2 of the ball socket, the ball/stud, the other half of the socket, the second spring. There may be shims too. There is a limited amount of adjustment, I ended up shimming mine. The reason for the springs besides keeping proper clearance on the ball (as it was explained to me by a front-end guy) is to act as 'shock absorbers', reducing the shock to the steering box/driver.
     
  9. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,290

    town sedan
    Member

    RARE PARTS use to have the manual steering center link. Haven't checked recently, but it would be a good place to start.
    -Dave
     
  10. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,412

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    I had leaky power steering on my 62.I found a manual center link and rebuilt the front end completely.I like it much better.NOleaks and the steering effort isn't that bad.
     
  11. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,248

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Well, if thats the case than thats the problem...because it's just plain stupid.
    Sounds like a good way to add slop to the steering and promote death wobble to me.
    If a vibration dampner were required I would put it in the steering wheel shaft to the steering box...just like OEM on modern cars/trucks.
    To be honest...I doubt one is ever really needed in a Hot Rod etc anyway.
     
  12. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Hackerbilt,
    If you think that sounds bad, you should see the original PS valves.
     
  13. Any old Ford with manual steering was fine with me. My last '64 was manual and I used radials on it. The OG PS valves were quite the monstrosity.
     
  14. Actually, when everything is right these work well; this design was typical on many 50s-back Ford products. The problem seemed to be poor quality springs....
     
  15. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,492

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Those sockets when disassembled have a baseped with a center dowel, 3/8" X 5/8" long that the spring goes over. This is a 'bottoming' device, there to prevent binding and breaking the spring.
    I've never seen drag link dampening springs break, but I've only been repairing front end/steering problems since '57...
    There are part #s available for manual steering pitman arms and idler arms, both shorter (obviously) than their power steering brethren...
    To say the car will be 'viciously hard to steer' if converted properly is a misnomer. Ford passenger cars from 1952 were very light on steering.
     
    uglysteve likes this.
  16. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,290

    town sedan
    Member

    Ford used this same general style P/S well into the 70's
    -Dave
     
    Drunk Man likes this.
  17. I just checked rare parts. Looks like I can't just buy the center link I'd need a core.
     
  18. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,290

    town sedan
    Member

    Sorry about that. I know cores can be very hard to come by. Maybe try something like the Borgson (spelling?) power steering conversion. That would get rid of all the O.E. leaks.
    -Dave
     
  19. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,675

    RmK57
    Member

    You could look into a power steering box from a 71-73 Mustang or Torino. They were an integral unit.
     
  20. It depends on how deep the drop is to the pitman arm. The Fords are really deep. There is a Borgeson that I like, P/N 800115. Jegs has one for $578, I've seen them for less on evilBay. It would be real nice to find something cheaper and fab up a bracket to mount it.
     
  21. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Corvettes had it, too.
     
  22. Nice to have some measurements of a later PS box. And the spline info as well. Most Fords have a 11/16-36 spline at the pitman arm.
     
  23. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,675

    RmK57
    Member

    That's why I was suggesting the Mustang box. Pretty sure the steering column has to be shortend to allow for the rag joint among things like the pitman arm.

    They are cost effective. I'm thinking of the feasibility of this swap n my 57.
     
  24. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Not sure about the accuracy of that. Most small Ford boxes are 1" or 1 1/8" pitman shafts. Perhaps you're talking about the threads of the pitman shaft?
     
  25. Yes, the threads at the pitman shaft. With a rag joint and universals, I don't see adapting a different box being that difficult. I looked up a few newer ones and the pitman splines are the same.
     
  26. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Yeah, the box is the easy part. He's having trouble finding a manual center link.
     
  27. I don't think that's much of an issue, what years fit the '62? Plenty of old cars in 'yards around the country.
     
  28. Yeah I wonder which or if any other ford/mercury cars around the same year used the same center link. I know what it looks like but I don't have one obviously to take measurements. I've had good luck posting wanted ads on here before maybe I'll try that
     
  29. Not sure which year they ditched the drag-link at the pitman arm. My '59 has one. For a '62, I'd say a '63 or '64 would be a slam dunk. Not sure about the '61. Put a wanted ad on The Ford Barn, I've found parts that way.

    The acid test would be the length from the pitman arm to idler arm and the distance between the inner tie rods.
     
  30. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 995

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Somebody should have an old Hollander Interchange Manual that would cover this. Try a wrecking yard that has been around forever.
     

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