One of our new guys "Heavy" was asking about a GM "G" body frame swap for his 50 chevy P/U. I'm in the process of doing one for my 46 Stude P/U so I thought I 'd post some pictures in case any one else was thinking about this swap. I don't seem to be able to locate the first pictures of the chassis, but it's what is known as a perimeter frame. That means it kicks out right behind the front suspension and the rails run along the rockers, then kick back in right before the rear suspension. This is the biggest problem with this frame. It's too wide thru the center section for a lot of cars, and most pick ups. G bodys were the mid sized GM cars from 78 up. Malibu, Monte, ect. Some of the higher performace cars come with some good handleing packages. Mine was just a lowly malibu 4 door, which will be just fine for this daily dirver. It's a short arm / long arm front suspension just like the S-10. Some of you my know better than me, but I'm pretty sure most of the parts interchange with the S-10. In my opinion it's one of the best all around designs out there. The rear suspension is a 4 link design, also an excelent choice. The track is 57&1/2" making it perfect for my Stude. This chassis will replace the stock Stude chassis that I had subbed with a 77 Nova. The sub worked great, but I eventully channeled the P/U and had to run some small tires that I never did like due to the 60&1/2" track of the Nova. I also had the stock parallel leaf suspension with the nova rear mounted on top of the springs. Even with a few leaves removed, it still road a little harsh in the rear. In my case the wheel base was 4" shorter than my stude. 108 &1/2 if memory serves. That was perfect, as I always thought my rear fenders needed to move forword a bit to ballance out the look of the bed. If you need to change the wheel base for your application I'd suggest you do it first. Before you remove them. This will make it easier to jig the chassis up for the new rails. Cut the stock rails in the middle and use some rec tube, or angle iron to hold the rails in alignment and weld them back together. The most important measurements at this point are length, of course and dimond or X check. Find points at the front and rear on each rail that are the same side to side, and measure diagonally. The measurements should be the same. As for level, I haven't found any thing that workes better than large bubble levels. One on the front and one on the rear will help you keep any twist out of the chassis. Once you have the length where you want it, It's time to replace the center rails. I have access to a frame bench, but you don't need one. You just need to stablize the front and rear clips. You can weld tubing in an X across the center, or make some wide U shaped tubes and temperarlly weld them to the front and rear clips. I've seen this done under, or over the frame. It doesn't matter as long as they are put in before you remove the rails, are out of the way of the new rails, and keep both ends from moveing. We mounted this frame on a car-o-liner bench, and all of the fab work was done by one of my female students. This was the first time she had fabricated ANYTHING! She was one of my best welders in this last group, and she gained tons of confidence from this project! At the start I think she thought I was nuts to let her do this. Buy the time she was done she couldn't belive how easy it was. I think I'd better post a picture now. I'm tired of typing. Both of my typing fingers are getting tired These first two pictures are the chassis on the bench with the new rails set in place. The rails are made of 2"X3" 1/8" wall rec tube. They are inserted into the orig rails. The kick up at the front put the rails right about the same hight as the orig.