If you are planning to run a Flathead with a '39 trans, I would stay with the enclosed driveshaft (torque tube) but if you are going to use a T5 and open drive you could still use Ford rear radius rods meeting at the center near the transmission to position the rear end. But you will need to add a "torque arm" bolted to the banjo to take the rotational forces of acceleration and braking. There are several good threads on here discussing how to do the banjo rear end. There is also the Pete & Jake style long ladder bar kit that works very well and is easy to install.
Nice, keeping it traditional. You already said you were going to work with Hot Rod Works for their open driveline conversion, they also have a radius rod kit and a torque arm kit, not sure if they will work for you or not, but you should check with them: http://www.hotrodworks.com/product-category/chassis-components/
Started to mock up the rear axle. Pic 03 is of the tool I made to separate the leaf spring, got the idea for the tool here on the H.A.M.B...
Read online that the output shaft angle should be 3 degrees. I checked the angle on my setup and its at zero. This is a stock 1940 rear. The leaf spring bracket is already welded in. Can a tapered shim be placed in between the spring and the center bracket?
I would just use a sawzall and cut the weld between the frame and the end of tube spring support staying as close to the frame as possible and rotate the rear end up or down to get your desired degree and re weld.
NO. Move the wishbone bracket up one inch and I would not use that light duty joint. Look for a stainless heavy duty joint used on airplanes. I did on my 34 about 25 years ago. I will try to find a vender or can any body help. JMHO Jim T.
If you just move the wishbone bracket up, you put the spring in a bind. Are you referring to this joint.
I think someone may have referenced it above, but it's important to remember that the tire size (height) can affect your caster. So when you do your initial planning for rake try to consider the tire size you will ultimately use and expect to stay with it. Taller rear tires will reduce caster –– shorter rear tires will increase it.
Can an angled shim be placed in between the rear transvers leaf and the base plate to achieve the 3 degrees for the output shaft?
Major Drive line components can be at zero, that's not an issue at all - if the ujoint working angles are there. You can put a wedge there and it will change the angle. doing so will alter your wheel base, in other words it will throw the rear tire off center of where it is now. That may help or hurt, but it is going to move a little. In a perfect world, theoretically you would like to see the shackle pins perfectly parallel and stay that way. You'd like to imagine 10 foot long shackle pins the stay parallel even thru full suspension movements. Since there's a Walgreens on every corner there's no perfect world and its not going to happen. A slight twist in the end of the spring wound also change your angles. If end one was twisted forward and one twisted back that would also change stuff as well.
Saw these here on the H.A.M.B. They helped me out so I figured I will post them for others to glean off of.
Modified the front bushings on the front of the ladder bars so I could use heim joints. Added gussets threaded the ends.
Once everything was mocked up took it all apart and sent the banjo rear to Hot Rod Works to have it modified for modern axles, drive shaft and late model brakes.
Now I have what may seem like a dumb question, where would be a good place to locate the shocks? Been fiddling around with it trying to figure this out. Any one out there have some pics of a similar set up??
The Jalopy Journal
