Hot Rods front panhard bar

How many of you are running one on a single leaf front end? I know they didn't use them very early along but did later. I also know that the Model A didn't cook, so just curious who is and isn't, has and hasn't? Also, the shock damper/VW deal; I know it is apples and oranges, but it is on my mind as well.
the PORK

 

I put one on my Merc because the Posies superslider spring was twichy, it cured the problem

 

Have been running one on my roadster since I built it in 1999. Also have steering damper, system works great. spring is a Poises super slider

 

I have parts fabbed and as soon as I can get to it two of my cars with leaf sprung fronts are getting them. Hi-speed cornering without one is always an adventure.

 

I have one on mine. Runs string straight, no twitch, shackle sway or bump steer.

 

In the process of building my 30 coupe. Put a Panhard bar on and have the SoCal steering dampener installed as well. Had a few comments about the front end being too busy. With the grill shell, motor etc in place you have to really look to see either.

 

There is, of course, some mounting/positioning geometry for a Panhard bar that should be followed if the intent is to avoid bump steer. When the shackles on the Ford front spring swing right an left [due to cornering forces] the axle/wheel assembly moves independently of the frame....and the steering box is mounted to the frame. The result is that the tires steer right or left without movement of the steering wheel when cornering or hitting a bump. Putting on a Panhard bar will stop that back and forth 'shake' of the axle in relation to the frame. But the Panhard bar should be positioned properly because, if its geometry is poor, it too can induce bump steer. See the Pete and Jake's tips in their catalog.

 

Thanks Model. I am thinking one to bottom of spring mount (center) and then parallel to a concocted frame rail bracket (5/8 heims).

 

Thanks guys. Anyone not run one for 20 years with no issues? I am running one, just wanna hear if any luck without them as well?

 

Center of spring to where?

 

Pork
Ok, I guess I'll have to be that guy.
This is one of the reasons I chose to use a "dead perch" on my roadster, that and to pay homage to all the dirt track cars that used them; considering the "theme" of my car.
Don't want to derail your thread, but if you haven't heard of one; a Google search will lead you to some interesting "facts", not just opinions.

 

Ideally if you build a panhard bar you want it mounted to the pass frame rail and run it as long as possible. It should be as level as possible as well when the car is at ride height.

What a lot of the old timers do around here is hang a piece of channel iron down behind the axle and mount a bearing to the axle that just fits in the channel. They say that it is an old flathead racer trick.

 

Mysterion had to have one!!

 

More important with a cross steer than conventional steer.

 

I agree with Denny, a dead perch was the answer for me, my Model A (avatar) now handles great with no noticeable change in the ride, couldn't be happier!

 

Agree that a panhard is a good idea with cross steer front, and that a dead perch would do the same, never seen the setup Beano mentions.
I have a panhard on the front of my '31 Hiboy and like it. The rear has transverse and the spring is just a little too long (I bought the roadster as a rolling chassis/ body someone else started), ands the rear shackles are almost vertical. Have thought about a panhard there, but this thread has me wondering, anybody ever tried a dead perch on the rear? It's a 9 inch Ford rear with spring behind fabricated hangars.

 

I have never been a big fan of a dead perch, they actually don't drive bad, it is just something in my head. But I'll bet it would work, at least I would give it a try. It is something that would have to be fabbed up but if it works you would have yourself a nice little cottage industry.LOL

Ok I was looking for a pic of the bearing setup I was talking about and found this tuning fork setup. The bearing would work along the same lines and I'll keep looking for you.

 

I have used the bearing in the channel trick (deuce factory) and it works fine, until the channel wears, then you have to shim the channel. It gets very scary when there is more than .003-.004
clearance between the bearing and channel.

 

Jim Busby, 32 fiver, just about the coolest trad. type car on the planet.
It would have been a travesty to put a panhard on this car.

 

I use dead perches on front and rear of my transverse-leafed '27 Highboy tub ('32 rails with rear T spring behind) (both 'deadened' on passenger side, as 'T' is not confined to counter-clockwise roundy-racing)
Many circle track roadsters (CRA cars, also midgets and sprints) tethered dead perch on drivers (left) side to 'hang' from spring in directional force...
I use them on the right, like I did at the shop: Most cars then were using Vega cross steering boxes, and pushed/pulled from the right spindle.

One inquisitive 'Tennis Shoe Type' asked me why I 'restricted' spring movement when I could make a Panhard rod: "Why use the SPRING?"
I said, "I dunno...'Cus it was THERE?"

 

I find it interesting that Google has the facts and others only have opinions. My LSC runs better than 250 mph according to SCTA [however, the timing staff will have to admit that the time slip may only be an 'opinion' because Google was not consulted]. Worse, being that I didn't go to Google to get the 'facts' it's possible the beam axle set-up I built for the pictured car is just an 'opinion'.

Come on. Take some good advice. SIMPLY go to Pete & Jake's site and read what they have to say on the subject. You could Google them I suppose. Yes, there are scholarly written tomes on vehicle steering geometry but semi elliptical transverse spring/beam axle set-ups don't require rocket science.

 

I apologize for t5he intrusion on this thread, never thought for this to happen.

 

My LSR roadster has a dead perch and is straight and true at 200. Don't know much about a street application.