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frame jig height???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by I_be_moose, Aug 20, 2006.

  1. I_be_moose
    Joined: Aug 29, 2004
    Posts: 673


    Getting ready to fab up a frame jig. What is the best height to set it up for? I don't need the measurement as that might vary person to persaon. What I am interested is is waist high or something like that. Gonna be set up at first to do a deuce style frame but plan to make it adjustable for other styles...


  2. 32"
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2011
    Joined: Apr 9, 2002
    Posts: 1,783

    A hot rod chassis jig can be at elbow height, with provision for working from underneath or flipping the frame upside-down.

    If you're building something for a race car with a cage, a height of around two feet is easier to work with.

  4. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,033


    Hey Tim, I'd set it so that when seated you can comfortably weld your brackets/cross members/etc on. Being able to get under it is a very nice advantage. FWIW I did the digger at about 36" - seemed pretty comfortable to me.

    BTW the slickest chassis jig I ever saw was a simple beam (large heavy beam) that had crossmembers that slid forward/backward - it allowed virtually 360 access to the chassis during construction. You simply positioned the crossmembers to the appropriate locations and had nothing else in your way. Food for thought maybe.
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  5. TimDavis
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 714


    32" to the top of the table(bottom of the rails) - Good working height for me at 6' tall.

    Attached Files:

  6. 35ratbstr
    Joined: Feb 18, 2006
    Posts: 488

    from Colorado

    You might consider a surface plate rather than a I-beam jig. the surface plate is handy because you can scripe a center line and work from there. i am building a track t on one right know and it has been great. i tacked rectagular tubing on the surface and set my frame rails on it. you would want to make it long and wide enough to put a complete front or rear on. it makes it handy to run a square around on for measurements. i could post a few pictures in a few days if you have any interest?
  7. TimDavis
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 714


    I agree with 35 -

    The surface table is great for building the rest of the chassis - a stanchioned jig is really only good to get a perimeter frame together. If you are building a simple ladder style chassis ( model A-type), you can get away with doing the whole thing on the surface table.

    Building a '32 chassis with stamped rails requires some fixed-type jig to correctly locate the rails themselves before you can start building anything. New lengths of 2x4 box tubing is perfectly straight - the stamped '32 rails are not even the same side to side or from one to the next.
  8. hammeredabone
    Joined: Apr 18, 2001
    Posts: 734


    My table is open and 36" High. It is 9' long and 36" wide. I like it open I can get under and inside the frame I am working on. I have made 2by2 stantions that hold the axles up. I can set the frame at ride height. I have done my friends modified frame and it has worked out very well, it has wheels and is moved around with little effort. Next frame will be a 32.

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