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Technical Ford banjo rear axle seal leak. Brakes soaked.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by thomasanonymous, May 11, 2016.

  1. I pulled the rear hub off of my 1940 Standard and the drum lining and shoes are covered in axle oil. The last thing I want to do is replace the seal. Can I plug up the axle somehow and just grease the bearings at regular intervals? Is there a sleeve or collar I can install to prevent the oil from coming through?
  2. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    from 1960

    Check and see if your vent is blocked,if so fix it and clean up the mess.If not you must change the seal.It is not difficult.
  3. Nope, looks like that banjo needs to be split open and have the inner seals by the carrier bearings replaced, there are also seals made now that go near the ends of the shaft before it exits the tube. I recommend both seals on each tube and if the axle has been converted from a torque tube drive line, you will need to drill and tap for a breather fitting.
  4. Thanks guys. Can you tell me where the vent is located? This car has the original torque tube drive.
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  5. It vents through the torque tube into the transmission case. Think of it like an expansion chamber.
  6. Where should I check first for blockage?
  7. The seals are probably just worn out, not blown out which would be the result of hot air being trapped.
  8. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Their is is an outside seal that you don't have to break the diff apart. I'll try to find the # and get back.

    National 6510 seal will press in between the axle and housing just pull off the brake drum. If you google other # manufacture seals will replace. Mopar seal I think.
    Last edited: May 11, 2016
    stillrunners likes this.
  9. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,805


    Rebel; I could use that number also. I've got a '46 truck rear that was open driveshaft, but I've got more laying around her to build.
    cozmic likes this.
  10. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus


    When i was rebuilding my Banjo or working with a friend to do all I could do for him to rebuild it I did research to get a couple of those 6510 Nationals. Scarce as hens teeth but we/he found a couple new old stock. What I remember their were other replacements to cross reference but I didn't have to use them.

    I'm glad now though I didn't find out about them before Mike started rebuilding it. It really had other problems inside and now it is perfect.
  11. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 4,496


    There are two seals on the axle tubes ends. One rides on the axle and is removed toward the center section. The other is a seal in the hub. It can be changed by removing rhe hub only. I made a driver for the tube seals from a piece of conduit and a washer. I had made another similar rig to drive them out.
  12. 48-760
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 138

    from OH

    32 to 48 Ford Rear inner axle housing B-4245: National 450044 (this seal may be used for the torque tube below)

    32 to 48 Ford Torque tube seal (front) B-4245: National 450044, LYO 28004 (see previous listing above) as measured: 1.087 shaft , 1.834 OD x 0.433 W from V8 Times( CR 10926 1.094 Shaft x 1.828 Housing Dia. X 0.438 W)
    National 450044: 1.093 shaft, 1.828 bore, 1.834 OD, 0.437 W
    CR 11170 or Victor 49029
  13. Thank you Steel Rebel. That it exactly what I was looking for.
  14. Fel-Pro 14697, Trostel 36320, Chrysler T905 are interchangeable with the National 6510S seal.
    steel rebel likes this.
  15. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Your very welcome Tom it's called giving back. The HAMB guys have saved my ass too many times to count without dropping my pants. And that would be twenty and a half.

  16. Thanks for sharing the numbers! You guys are HAMB gurus.
  17. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,683

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Steps...remove housings, measure side gaskets as they control preload and mesh. They will probably be the standard .010, perhaps very slightly compressed. Replace with exact same to avoid having to re-set everything. Clean but DO NOT run tap into bolt holes, which are close tolerance!
    Drive out old seals from outer ends...just screwdriver and hammer.
    Tool for knocking in the new seals can be improvised as above, but where are you? Someone like me with proper tool may be nearby, and if you want a good repro tool Bratton's sells the tip which you just screw onto a piece of 1/2" pipe.
    Reassemble with same thickness side gaskets as you found.
    dmar836 likes this.

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