The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kenneth S, Dec 14, 2008.
The Ranger roller cam is an easy swap.
Over the years people have argued that Ford made, or didn't make a slider cam just for the turbo (it depends upon who was measuring them). The Ranger roller cam is a good, cheap cam to run with, and without a turbo, not to mention no more worries about having a cam lobe go flat.
Thought you might want to know whats up, so, today i swapped the fuel filters as i had a nasty idle problem since the cold arrived (engine kept dieing even after it was warm-ish), and to my amazement its runnin a lot better.
Still not sure how much better as today is raining and couldnt really floor it as the 155/80s arent the most grippin tire on the wet...well, actually even on the dry LOL
Still havent flushed the carbon buildup, but plannin on doin it by the week, but anyway, does it make sense to you that clogged filters make the car run like crap?
Clogged filter(s) will definitely make it run like crap.
What head do you recommend for a 3/8 dirt circle track car turning 8000 rpm max. Esslinger told me to stick with a Dport. On this thread there are flow numbers that suggests the turbo D head would be better.
Which years are the head from that you suggest and what vehicle.
The Oval head I was told works best on a motor spinning up to 9000.
Not sure who to believe. I`m looking at building a brand new engine and I want to do it right the first time. You could PM me also.
I`m leaning towards the Dport but not sure turbo D head or not.
The D-port 2.3 head came out in 1979-88, the turbo D-port came in 1986-88 Merkur's, and Thunderbirds. Even though the turbo head shows more flow it could be a fluke that the one that was flowed was better than one from a non-turbo simply due to the fact the ports in the head is "as cast". If you tested enough heads you would probably find a non-turbo that flows more than a turbo head. Stay away from the oval port heads if possible, the oval intake ports are way too big for the size of the engine.
P.S. do an intro post before the intro post police show up.
Ok since I'm stuck on the EOA 2.0's I found this tonight I anybody wants them. Some good reading maybe and hard to find in print (around $70 if you do).
If they don't work here's the page, first 2.
Mike! This IS the intro police! WERE HERE!!!!... I see YOU have not done a proper intro. HMMMMMMMM We will be watching you HeeHeeHee.
Esslinger knows high rpm motors. Good people to listen to. Expensive place when its time to open the cash box.
BTW Welcome to the HAMB now go do your intro and meet some folks.
According to Boport the D-port heads(turbo & non-turbo) are nearly identical once basic clean up work has been done. He says 3 out of 4 turbo heads are usually cracked so starting with the EFI D-port is the way to go.
probably putting one of these into my 64 fairlane 500 with a t5..should be fun
At it again....
Today i start the car at lunch break drive about 50 feet and it dies. And doesnt wanna start again either...
Sooo, i got fuel in the carb and fuel pump works, so i determined no spark.
I swapped the resistor and nothin, swapped the coil and nothin, checkt for cracks in the cap carbon bit but its fine, and same thing for the rotor, it looks like it has no carbon marks, but ckeaned it anyway to no avail.
Didnt have points handy so couldnt check on those.
Points have some short marks, theres some slag, like welding slag, that came from them. I thought it was normal, but is it?
Other than tryin changin the points, if it doesnt fix it, what else do you think i can do?
like, is there some kind of relay?resistor etc between the + side of the coil and the ignition switch that can go bad?
Could be a bad condensor, I'd get a new set of points, and condensor.
yeah, i called it a resistor but i meant the condensor. Its the little cilinder bit that hooks to the points right?
I changed that but nada.
So is ''slag'' on the points normal?
Yep, it hooks to the points, there shouldn't be any slag on the points. Ignition switch maybe? If you don't have a ballast resistor before the + of the coil it will burn the points.
Has anyone tried a quick shift shifter on the older pinto trans, I hear the plastic threads let go where it screws into the trans on the stock shifter and this one is made of metal.
I have had a heap of old British Fords and i think the metal one is the way to go,there is nothing worse then having the shifter coming out of the gearbox in the middle of a hard shift and that is what happens with the stock/plastic ones.
Intresting. When i got this car it had one of those later dizzys contolled by a ecu type thing. When the controller bured i swapped the og points dizzy.
Maybe the controller acted as a resistor?
Im rather sure i dont have any unless its under the dash behind the instrument cluster.
Then again, i checked a blow off picture of the 2.0 liter and it doesnt show anything between the + and the ignition switch??
Anyways, i'll swap the points tomo morn and let you know.
Thanx so much for your help.
bonez, what car, or truck do you have the engine in? What year is the wiring harness?
totally o/t, its in my album.
The conversion is the only thing i didnt do, i bought it because it already had a 2.0 instead of the stock 1.6
The 2.0 is a '92 with a 205 block, while the stocker was from '72.
Im positive the wiring is stock, so 72.
Points changed and still nothing. Gonna try plugs later.
I have a feeling it might be compression related thou, as all signs are there, like poor performance, white smoke during winter, and oil consumption. White smoke is not huge, but you can deff see it specially at traffic lights.
I have a spare engine but i hope i didnt completeley killed this one
A mechanical issue usually won't cause it to loose spark (unless it fouls the spark plugs, or something hits the plugs closing the plug gap). When it's not running are you checking to see if you have any spark comming out of the coil? The a lot of early cars with points have a resistor wire running from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil so it won't burn the points up. When you are cranking the engine you should be getting a full 12 + volts to coil, then when it running it should drop down to something like 9 volts. To check the engine run a compression test on all cylinders with all the spark plugs out of the engine, and note the psi for each cylinder. The do another compression test, but before you test each cylinder put like a 1/4 ounce of engine oil in the cylinder you are testing the take another compression reading, if the pressure is higher the pistons rings are gone (the extra oil will help seal the rings seal for he compression test).
Yeah, i know what youre saying. Im sure theres no spark cause i cant hear the plugs "clickin". Im gettin very preoccupied as its my daily and only runnin car at the moment. I kno it needs valve seats and most probably rings too so thats why im thinkin that.
Anyways, can a bad ground make the engine/starter turn but not fire? Or maybe the connection from the starter is weak causing no elecrtricity to get to the dizzy?
Im i dreamin things or is this possible?
Sorry for the stupuid/newb questions. I always focused on the chassis part of cars and im real basic when it comes to engines..
Seems to me you've been chasing this problem for a while, so maybe its best to go back to basics.
Eiminate everything you can.
Hotwire the coil directly from the Batt.
Run a new wire to the dist.
Put in some ground wires.
Just for testing purposes...
That's some good advice ^^^^^
If it starts, and stays running with the ignition hot wired then you will know for sure if there's something wrong with the wiring harness in the car.
I was running a Rally Cross in my Escort Mk 1 with a crossflow Kent motor one day and went to grab third and the Nylon thread pulled out. The shifter was now in my hand, so I handed it to my Co driver and and said "here, apparently I don't need this anymore". Finished the run in second gear.
I bought a Hurst for it and it was Nylon as well, they said it was a higher quality but it pulled out after a while as well. I ended up making a truss that went over it and safety wired around the bottom of the tailshaft - no more problems
Yes, im sure all the troubles i had in the past few months are caused by the same problem, and shit happened to hit the fan before i diagnosed it.....
So, how do i hot wire the coil, simply run a hot wire from the + batt terminal to the + coil terminal?
Should i leave the condenser hooked too? I guess so but better safe than sorry.
Yeah, disconnect al your existing wires off the coil and dist.
And run a wire from the + pole to the + on your coil.
( check if the coil needs a resistor, wire in a fuse and a switch if you want to be safe )
And run a wire from the - on the coil to the Dist.
You need the condensor to make it run.
If you have a second condensor ( this was sometimes done as a radio interference supressor ) take that one off.
I've seen things like Electronic Tach's completely mess up ( conventional points ) ignitions...
Its obviously a temporary/for testing only sollution only ( and make sure you still use your ign switch so you dont lock your steering column while driving, and your charging system still works ),
but I've run races with the coil aligator clipped into the batt + pole.
When you are racing for points, you dont always have time to do it the better and aestheticaly pleasing way...
But of course, racecars have their steering locks removed...
I must have been one of the lucky ones as I've never had stock one come out. Those fine threads could be a real pain in the ass at times.
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