Here's my latest project, the floor is shot and the wood interior structure is gone. I want to replace the floor as soon as possible so that I can move the body around without having it flex. Direct Sheetmetal is right down the street from me and I spoke with the owner yesterday about building a floor for this 35 Chevy; after hearing the $1,200 number I decided to see what I could do on my own. I have put in a request for a catalog from EMS and a few other vendors...does anyone else have any tips on how to go about this floor replacement?
obviously, you can cut the floor out of something else. I usually make a panel small enuff to be manageable, tack it in, make another, etc.
Made mine in the coupe. 4x8 sheet of steel, a shear and a piece of pipe to roll out the tranny hump. Worked for me and it's cheeeeap!!!
you wouldnt want to have flat metal in there, unless its a small piece, you would want to have beads rolled into the meatal to add strength, harbor freight sells a popular bead roller, and it does its job pretty well for how cheap it is.
Charlie. I would just weld in some braces for now to move it around.Gauranteed if you put a floor in now with no motor and trans in it you will be changin it later.Your floor will be dictated by the firewall-trans and driveline tunnel.Your seats will also tell you where to start your cross frames to bolt the seat.I could come up with more but I think you get the point.Feder
I've built a few. Easy if you have a brake and a bead roller. Without one or both, it's harder, but still very doable. Feder is right, wait untill the chassis/drivetrain is done.
[ QUOTE ] Charlie. I would just weld in some braces for now to move it around.Gauranteed if you put a floor in now with no motor and trans in it you will be changin it later.Your floor will be dictated by the firewall-trans and driveline tunnel.Your seats will also tell you where to start your cross frames to bolt the seat.I could come up with more but I think you get the point.Feder [/ QUOTE ] Good point. I was already thinking about the bracing I would need to hold the sides apart at the right distance while I fit the floor, looks like it would be best just to brace it all up good right now and work the floor as the chassis comes together. This car had the wood rails bolted to the frame and the floor was wood-screwed into the rails. I am ordering new rockers from EMS and want to tie the floor directly into the rockers and get rid of the wood completely. I talked to a guy in PA yesterday who builds up wood kits for these old Chevy's, solid ash, $1,995 complete. Too rich for my blood but if anyone wants his name/number send me a PM/email....
floors are fun to do, just make sure your doors are on and fit decent in the openings, i sometimes tack the door in place so i know the openings didnt change(itd be bad surprise!)
When I needed new floor pans for my 56 Safari, I bought a few 1/2 sheets of 20 gauge and borrowed my buddy's bead roller. I rolled the same 3 beads in each one that the factory did and welded 'em in place....big mistake. I won't use 20 gauge for floors again, even with beads rolled in. I think the roller could have handled 18 gauge metal ok and that's what I'm using next time. 16 gauge works ok too with few beads necessary for strength. Most rollers won't roll beads in 16 gauge.
I usualy use 16 gauge on floors bur i have a homemade bead roller and it rolls beads in 16 gauge no prob! but new bead rollers are so chincy
When I did my 37 chev coupe it looked the same as yours.What I did was take the doors lined them up an tack welded them shut.Squared everything up on the frame.Then I tool some 1x2 square tubing.welded them them across the front of the door post and the rear of the door post.from side to side.That set the body back up and gave it great strength.I bassically did the same for the rear of the body.I then set my drive train in the car.mounted the fenders and figured out the placement of everything..I then proceeded to remove the firwall and made a new smooth one..I did purchase the rocker panels from EMS I put them in next to tie the front and rear door post together.Then I cut the front 1x2 tube and made a tranny tunnel.bassically just a square then I just got some 18g. sheetmetal put some beads in it and fabbed the flooor pans.I used the 1x2 tubing for floor braces.It looked really clean.I think it cost me $145.00 CND to put the floor in that car.I wish I had some pics to share but I lost the car and all the car pics and all my parts in a storage fire.By the way I have been trying to find a 36 chev coupe up here for the last 4 years.
Charlie,I contoured some 1-1/2" angle iron down the rear door edge and tied it front to rear & side to side with 1X1 tubing to hold everything together.I'm setting my 35'Chevy coupe on a homemade frame.I will be fabricating my floor after I get my driveline & steering in place.By the way,Did you know a Camero speedometer fits that dash perfectly. Charlie
Charlie, that sounds just about right for the doors, how are you handling the door jambs? Do you have any measured drawings for this body? Some areas of the lower body are so far gone that I am not sure how much needs to be added back on... What year Camaro speedo?
LOOK OUT!That thing is gonna fall off of the trailer!I cut all the stuff off of the 51.I then got the doors correct and welded the rockers in.After that I went nuts with 1" box tube!The sheet is bead rolled and glued to the box for a corrosion proof underside.I then added stainless screws to secure it further.
[ QUOTE ] LOOK OUT!That thing is gonna fall off of the trailer! [/ QUOTE ] You are exactly right! In fact I was in the process of pushing it off the trailer. THe body wasn't attached to the frame so right after I took this photo I pulled the trailer forward and slid the body/frame off the back. I had Mona hold up one end of the body while I slid the frame out from underneath it. Here's a shot from when we just got back from our 1200 mile, 34 hour trek to the bay area...
$1200 will buy you a lot of tools, so you will be able to do a nice yob yourself. If you think you are going to this more than once, think about getting a electric beadroller from Mitler Bros. And you dont absolutely NEED a brake, if you take your time with a couple of pieces of 2x2 steel tube and a rawhide hammer. But Feeder is right, brace and re-enforce the body first, ( I would replace all the wood with 1/2" square tubing ), get the doors to fit right with nice gaps. And at least mock up your driveline,including the steering colomn and pedals.
Not only does she put up with you bringing home "projects",she helps you do it!Good job Mona!Hello from PA!
hell that floor is a piece of cake square tube sheet steel . Do the tunnel last till you set the motor and trans look at lulabelle's pic that is the best way when you have a body that's that beat up did my 34 tub the same way was a 4 door now is a tub you can get that done with about a sheet of 8x10 if you plan you cuts right. I used 1 8x10 sheet but I used the good stuff galva neal steel has a coat that does not rust only were it is cut and that takes a while to rust I seen this stuff sit out side in the rain for 3 years and not rust just where it was cut . I by it from the limo shop it runs me about 80 bucks a sheet but may cost more from a steel place I get a break. But it is worth it not like plain steel that would rust soon as it is in the car ask nads about that I have less than 150 in my floor and it not coming back out in my life time not unless I take it to the slat flats.yeah baby! will try to post some pics if I remeber where they are.
And yes it can be done cheaper than that ask nads about the square tube clothing racks they are kickass and on the cheap.
Hey here is apick of my packard that I am building the floor for now. I had to stop working on it as the snow and rain started to fall, but I will get back on it. I built a support frame underneath out of 1"X2" tubing I made the humps out of 2" strap steel and then bent a tunnel out of sheet by bending it over a welding bottle. I also rounded the edges where it drops down to the original floor (channel) I only have the back seat area and the front part of the trunk done so far.
Use 18 guage with beads rolled in. 16 guage for the small sections of toe board. This way you have a smooth area(no beads for resting your feet on and a strong area to weld in the lower column. Make the trans tunnel out of 16 guage, it aks as a spine to stiffen the whole floor. Give yourself extra tunnel clearance at the rear to that you can put it in the weeds later and not have to modify the tunnel. Make patterns in sections out of poster board and tape them together to make the template for bending. Watch how you run your beads so that they dont interfere with seat mounts. Buy the firewall from direct sheetmetal and make the rest yourself. I will email pix of my 39 floor in stages if anyone wants them. To much of a pain to post here.
[ QUOTE ] Charlie. I would just weld in some braces for now to move it around.Gauranteed if you put a floor in now with no motor and trans in it you will be changin it later.Your floor will be dictated by the firewall-trans and driveline tunnel.Your seats will also tell you where to start your cross frames to bolt the seat.I could come up with more but I think you get the point.Feder [/ QUOTE ] Feder is right. 1/2 conduit works wonders. Hell you might decide to channel before you're done.
Are you sure thats a 35 Chevy? kinda looks more 36-39sh to me. like the others said, start with it mounted firmly, possibly at the cowl, then block up the body till square and door gaps right then start tacking in tubing diagonally from a pillar to b pillar then to the rear of the body. Check,check and recheck squareness, it will try to move on you once you start welding. Charleled, I can honestly say you have suprised me with the willingness to take on such a serious rebuild. IMohsoHO, this is a perfect candidate for a custom rod treatment ,sectioning,chop,channel,make into a three window or carson top with chop.So,whats the build plan?
[ QUOTE ] Are you sure thats a 35 Chevy? kinda looks more 36-39sh to me... Charleled, I can honestly say you have suprised me with the willingness to take on such a serious rebuild. IMohsoHO, this is a perfect candidate for a custom rod treatment ,sectioning,chop,channel,make into a three window or carson top with chop.So,whats the build plan? [/ QUOTE ] The tag on the firewall says "35" and the suicide doors were only used on the 35 Master DeLuxe models. As for a build plan, I have a 50 Merc to finish up before I get serious with this coupe. I have to shift stuff in and out of my 2-car garage while I'm working on it so I just wanted to get this body a little more sound so that it won't get any worse by moving it. I already have a nice Jag XJS posi-IRS (makes the driveline tunnel alot easier to design) and a 2002 LS6 motor out of a Z06 Vette. Not as traditional as most but I may change my mind before it comes time to build up the drivetrain. You are right, this is a challenge, I intend to work the hell outta my new Henrob rig! If anybody has good dimensions for this body/floor I'd appreciate anything that is offered...
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