I put a Speedy Bill T5 conversion in my deuce. 1940 221, stock k member, 1940 clutch and brake pedals. They "sold" me on the 10.5 Long style clutch. Problem is that it feels like the old Ford 11" truck clutch in pedal pressure, and like I need another 1/2" of pedal travel. Have added spacer on pedal to pad for that. If I redrill a cross shaft pivot lower to gain movement I will be making higher pedal pressure, correct? Anyone used a hydraulic setup like P&J #3040 with my setup? I'm using a 1940 cross shaft, anyone know of a Ford shaft with a shorter arm to try? By the way, an S10 2wd rear with wheel adapters is the same from mounting surface to mounting surface as a deuce. Buggy spring fits if you reroll eyes shorter. Clears deuce rear crossmember better than the stocker!
From your post you should have purchased the Ford style clutch release unit. The 40 style engine uses 10" 42-48 passenger pressure plate and a 10" disc that matches the T-5 spline count. Second issue is with the 40 pedal assembly, this unit does not align the clutch throws correctly and this misalignment creates a throw travel issue. If you have installed the 40 style clutch cross link it must be indexed correctly to function and you have to have the correct butterfly style lower shaft in the adapter. Will it work? yes, it may just be out of adjustment on the pedal throw rod but you are going to have to post a picture of your set up and this may indicate why you are having an issue. Your ratios should be correct because you have used all the complementary parts.
I am using a Fidenza aluminum flywheel. Currently 1200 miles away from car for winter, so pictures are a problem. As I think about it, it seems like the freeplay to clutch is much longer than previous. (Like the clutch fingers are further foward than the Ford parts.). I had to increase length of rod between pedal and arm on bellhousing. I think you may be right in the leverages, as the arm on bellhousing seems to be rotated more to get to contacting clutch levers. I had a working setup with flatty, 48 pickup 3 spd floor shift trans. I kept knocking out trans internals with the power, plus I thought fully syncro'd shifting would be great. Suggestions for a better pedal setup for a deuce with stock k member? Hate to do it, but maybe go back to a 10" plate?
One question since you assembled this from parts did you put the clutch throw fork on backwards? Quick check your butterfly shaft lever to the case, fin should be about level or running at a 10-4 index.
Just realized it can't be put in 180 degrees off, it will be in same angle since it is on center. Is the angle for a fully retracted bearing, or at contact point with levers?
The shaft is symmetrical so the next option is that you have not positioned the pedals correctly and the using the stock clutch pedal has positioned the pedal crank position to low so you are not getting enough travel in the pedal. Your pedal arm should be at 90*to the actuator crank arm or the two levers should be somewhat parallel to each for proper operation. If your pedal is too far rearward or to high it doesnt allow the pedal to attain proper travel because it tops out too soon or bottoms out too soon on the floor boards..Check that area next.
In case any one opens this up to read, the problem was in the internal springs of the clutch. It's made by Mc Leod. I called them, they said to remove 3 to 6 of the 9 springs. 6 removed is the same as a stock '32 clutch in pressure, 3 removed is the same as a stock 11" pu disc. I removed 3, now it works great. The tech guy said the 9 spring is a racing only clutch, Speedy Bill should never be selling it for street use as it destroys factory linkages.
Great response to older thread, Rodder! Clutch linkage geometry can be a 'blind op', if attempting to measure angles with frame rail, part of floorboard, sub frame, ect. in the line of a clear view. Thanks, and a remembrance to the late Dick Spadaro. Miss him...
The Jalopy Journal
