My flathead has Champion H 10 C spark plugs on it now. I changed to aluminuim Edelbrock heads and want to put new plugs in also. When I do a search on the internet for the plugs for an 1950 Ford V8, the code comes up as RH 10 C. Part #854. Is this correct? Was there just a change in Champions code numbers? or is there a difference? Jared
I believe the "R" is resistor and indicates it is cool to use with electronic ignition, but am not an expert. I have used both in flatheads and noticed no difference, but use stock parts, points and such. If you have the electronic dist, the RH10's are the right one.
The consensus amongst the oldtimey Ford V-8 guys on the "other" sites is that Champion plugs (as currently manufactured) have a sharp/ragged thread that is incompatible with aluminum heads leading to seizing. Most recommend a Bosch equivalent. I don't remember the number but I think you can find it on the "Techno site." quote=rodrelic]I believe the "R" is resistor and indicates it is cool to use with electronic ignition, but am not an expert. I have used both in flatheads and noticed no difference, but use stock parts, points and such. If you have the electronic dist, the RH10's are the right one.[/quote]
When I screwed my motor together two years ago, some guys recomended NGK B4L. They work well for me, and I recomend them. Use a lot of anti-seize.
NGK B6L (B4L is hotter), or Autolite 216 - the new champions aren't of the same quality they used to be...
grandpa and i both were going through sets of H10's like water....this comes up on the fordbarn regularly.....i took everyone's suggestion and switched to the b4l ngk's and have yet to replace one..........however, this is just idling in the driveway.....i haven't put any miles on it yet..... i use never sieze on most all of my threads anyway......this deserves it much more!.......steel and aluminum doesn't mix
Champions just went down in quality(way down). They just aren't the plug they used to be. I use NGK or Autolite on my old cars, Bosch on my VWs.
Hecho en Mexico! I get about 1000 miles on a set of the current H-10C Champions. Found a couple of sets of the old Champion H-12's and have yet to foul a plug. They burn nice and chocolate brown, have a slight soot ring when you touch your palm with them. Also I took the 97's off and replaced them with 81's on a 275 ci 51 Merc engine running a Winfield SU-1A cam and it got even better, I use a Edelbrock regular dual carb manifold and a new set of Edelbrock heads. Hope this helps,
Can't say I've ever had an issue with using Champion plugs from lawnmowers to Flatheads. Of course H-10 is a recommended heat range . You'll have to find the proper heat range for your eng's state of tune/app. I believe the C in the RH-10C stands for copper R for resistor. Anti seize is a must in aluminum. Heck, I would recommend it also in cast iron heads as well. I think the Champions look good and nostalgic as well. If you cannot thread the plugs in by hand ,by all means check to see what the hang up is. Good luck
i've never been a champion fan going back to the 60's they always fouled more than any other plug/ i do run them in my harley flathead tho // as far as thread clearance it always been a common flathead problem thats why the mechanics in the 50's-60's ALWAYS had a thread chaser tap in thier toolboxes. i wouldn't think of putting plugs intoa new aluminum heads without first chasing the threads. anti sieze is good
I agree - don't run those damn Champion plugs . . . aren't worth a crap. The threads are poor and if you're running multiple carbs and the engine is a bit rich at idle, they foul really easily. I like the NGK plugs - they ran really well on both my street and blown race motors. I also ran Autolights - just can't remember the part numbers. (use a cross-reference guide). On older aluminum heads, you should consider putting steel thread inserts in them while you have them off the motor (not helicoils). Once I switched to these, I am always confident that I can take the plugs out many times and never have to worry about stripped threads. It beats the heck out of the ugly feeling of changing plugs and feeling the old threads give away . . . as you tell yourself "maybe it's just not tight yet" . . . Dale
Picked this up over at the MSN site: NGK - B6L Autolite - 216 Champion - H-10 Motorcraft - AL7 Bosch - WSAO ND - W14L AC - C45L I think these are stock replacements - check your plug reach on non-stock heads. Have heard nothing but bad reports on Champion - I used the NGKs in my last hot flathead - very happy with them.
Why is it that the Champions seem to work in Harleys? My buddy swears by Champions in his Triumph and his Knucklehead but I've had poor expereinces with them in damn near anything I've ever used them in. Of course, his Triumph hasn't been on the road since 1982... Is fouling with Champions a common problem?
I aggree with Dale. Even on a NEW set of aluminum heads; I use these ... http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html
messing with this tonite my champions h10c are fouling in like 100 miles should i try the ngk's ? i also have real eddie meyer heads will i have a problem? is the plug depth the same as the champions? what should i do? billy
Check the thread depth on your heads. Someone else on here was saying his heads are thicker than stock. That makes sense. Iron is stronger than aluminum so if I was making a cast aluminum head I would want more threads myself. Also most newer engines and sparkplugs are longer than 7/16 which is the length of an "H". Like a "L" series plug at 1/2 inch and "N" at 3/4. If your plug tip is not extending into the exhaust flow towareds the exhaust valve, it will not be "cleaned" by the hot gasses. That's why they put plugs over the exhaust valve. To keep it from fouling. Check with your head mfg. or if it's off, look to see if the plug tip is exposed about the same as on a stock head. If not, don't cut out the extra threads that are there for a reason just so you can use the same plugs as the factory did. It's a Hot Rod. Treat it as such.
what spark plugs did original eddie meyer heads recomend for thier heads ? or what are you useing? billy
About strippin' the holes, I have something from the world of 4 banger car with aluminum heads and deep plug holes (gimmie a break, it was AWD turbo and ran like stink, OK ), but it should work just fine on a flatmotor... Put a piece of vacuum tube on the connector on the plug. Use the piece of hose to thread the plug down in the head, as you would have to try really hard to cross thread it compared to by hand. I stripped one once and had to fix the damn thing, after that I started doing this and it always worked well.
Many early engine that we mess with could use a slightly hotter heat range plug than was originally recomended by the manufacturer, when using unleaded gasoline. I've been using Champions all my life and have not had any complaints, but I don't always run the recomended heat range. HemiDeuce.
I have 1932 heads on my '36. What plug is correct to run in that big 18mm hole? I could use a slightly hotter than stock range, the engine is olddddddd.
Am I totally wrong in thinking that: fouling plugs would mean that you are running rich or have worn rings, not the wrong brand of plug? I've run Champs and Autolites by the way. Both looking equally sooty. I know it's running rich.
1932 heads have a 7/8 - 18 spark plug. Not sure what to recommend, but I got Autolites as there aren't many options in that thread.
I switched from H10's that last time I was running flatheads - can't stand them. Does anybody know the NGK part number/x-ref for H-10's? I don't have an NGK book available at home. Thanks! Dale
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