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Flathead problem? update

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by glmke, Jun 26, 2010.

  1. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

    Drove the hotrod to work today,and with the weather here in the great NW that's. A treat lately.My problem is on the way home my 1950 ford was running like crap!. When I would push the gas pedal down the 239 flathead would sputter and cut out and
    Hesitate. I was able to limp her home and opened up the Hood. At a quick glance I noticed that the fuel filter had no fuel in it. So I believe that is the cause but What should look for in a salution. Thanks for the help.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2010
  2. LUMBERJACK 50
    Joined: Jun 15, 2009
    Posts: 56

    LUMBERJACK 50
    BANNED
    from upland ca.

    the pickup in the tank could be blocked....do u run the stock mech. pushrod or a asst' or electric pump?
     
  3. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

  4. 51 MERC-CT
    Joined: Apr 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,594

    51 MERC-CT
    Member

    Might be sucking air past the cork gasket that seals the glass bowl on the fuel pump.:)
     

  5. Lost in the Fifties
    Joined: Feb 25, 2010
    Posts: 459

    Lost in the Fifties
    Member

    Disconnect coil wire first, then remove fuel line @ carb. and crank engine over. If no fuel, hold your finger over fuel line and check for pressure. If fuel pump is working, you should have pressure.(Remove and pump arm by hand to check operation.) If not, check to see if fuel pump pushrod is worn too much to operate pump. If it is not working, you can weld 1/8" onto top of rod and grind off to fit in cup on arm. If everything is operational, remove gas cap from fuel tank. Blow through fuel line from front to rear with pressurized air. This will sometimes clear an obstructed line. If it now works, remove and clean fuel tank. I have had all these scenarios happen over the years. Good luck!
     
  6. I had the same problem as Lost in the 50's mentions, my fuel pump pushrod was worn. I packed out the actuating arm on the pump to get me home, then welded (extended the push rod). Eventually I replaced the stock one with an electric one which worked great but I hated the "ticking" of the electric one. Good luck, I hope you sort out the problem.
     
  7. LUMBERJACK 50
    Joined: Jun 15, 2009
    Posts: 56

    LUMBERJACK 50
    BANNED
    from upland ca.

    thats what im think'n could be the pushrod....it could be worn
     
  8. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,512

    BLUDICE
    Member

    Put on a electric fuel pump, I've been fighting my for a couple weeks now because of our hot/humid temps lately - put the pump on last weekend and it saved my butt 3 times this week driving back and forth from the Indy Road Rockets Rumble car show going on this week! I even left the stock pump on! I still use the stock one most the time. I have a togle switch I flip on when the engine starts to act up.
     
  9. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

    Good tips thanks guys. Any recommendations on electric
    fuel pumps
     
  10. i would not recommend a holley pump as they are very noisey. get a low flow pump and run a regulator. you only need 2-3 psi, assuming you are running a 94 or 97.
     
  11. DICK SPADARO
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,887

    DICK SPADARO
    Member Emeritus

    This seems like repeating a broken record but, most fuel pump problems can be traced back to the new 10% ethanol fuels from your local gas pump and the effect on the diaphram of the fuel pump. If you have no or low suction on the fuel pump in let side the first place is to check the gas tank for fuel, second is to blow thru the line to check for obstructions, third is to check the line for signs of loose fittings or cracks, fourth is remove the fuel pump and disassemble to check the condition of the diaphram . If the diapram is not flat, its shot. it is overstreched out and lost most degree of function. If it looks like a toad stool mushroom , its shot, and needs to be replaced. More than likely if you store your car over the winter or use the car very little the fuel pump diaphram is shot and all you have to do is replace it. This is turning int annual maintenance because of the new fuels, they are not made for this style fuel system.
     

  12. As noted by obsolete zach, he is very correct, the holley on mine works well, but is very noisey. When I can here it over my pipes, trust me its noisey. Also as he noted, run a regulator, in most cases if the carb has been rebuild in the near past, even 2 PSI is high, 1 to 2 psi is usually more then enough.

    Good luck.
     
  13. eaglebeak
    Joined: Sep 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,271

    eaglebeak
    Member

    The gasoline that you are getting these days has a lot of ethanol in it. It loosens up the dirt in your gas tank.
    Plus, the new gas will boil at a lower temperature causing vapor lock. Does your fuel line run near your exhaust?
    Was it really hot out?
    The road temperature will heat your gas tank.
    Etc., etc.
     
  14. Flatman
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,975

    Flatman
    Member

    Check the one way valves in the pump and see if they're working, I've seen them stick so the pump won't pump. The factory rebuild kit contains a new pump rocker arm, as the cup end wears out, along with the spring, diaphragm, and new one way valves.
    I run a stock pump and it works great for my two 94s.

    Flatman
     
  15. chevyfordman
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,358

    chevyfordman
    Member

    I ran my forty ford like bludice does and it worked perfect for me even in 100 degree days.
     
  16. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

    thanks for the help
     
  17. Billet
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 275

    Billet
    Member

    Before spending any of you hard earned money try blowing the fuel line to the tank. Unless it's a new tank there is a possibility that debris has plugged the fuel at the tank outlet. Remove the fuel cap and listen for air while blowing about 3-5 psi through the line. Worth a try before replacing parts you don't need- Good luck
     
  18. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

    ok I took the Fuel pump cleaned it out blew some air through the lines, reinstalled and still have the same problem. very little gas in the fuel filter so my best guess is the fuel pump is bad. do i buy a new one or is it better to buy a rebuild kit and that something i can get from Napa or where?
     
  19. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

  20. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    New pumps are available from any local auto parts(NAPA, CarQuest, O'Reilly's, etc) a day or a couple hours from the warehouse. Most won't stock them on the shelf.
     
  21. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Rebuild kits are only a few dollars...

    Make sure it's no sucking air too. I put a film of grease or vasoline on the cork gasket where the glass bowl is - common to get leaks here.
     
  22. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

    where can you get the rebuild kit.
     

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