I have searched threads and done some reading. I have looked on the HAMB and other forums. I have read websites and stories. I get conflicting information and such. But long story short I still don’t get it. I have a flathead 6. I installed a remote oil filter like the one in the link below. I did not make any other changes to the engine and everything worked fine. I seemed to have good oil pressure. I pulled the engine because the front and rear main seals were finally toast. I am working (very slowly) on the rebuilding process. Lets talk about full flow oil vs. by pass. I have been told that I cannot run the filter setup I have because I will starve the engine of oil and everything will go to pot. I don’t want to do that, however logic would have told me that if that was gona happen it would have done so sometime in the last few years while that filter adapter was on and the truck was running with it. Logic to me seems like a full flow or by pass would be something that is built into the block and won’t really have much to do with the filter and assembly. I mean all I have done is replaced 1 filter with a different one and that’s it. I just don’t get how the filter assembly will make a difference. I can understand that 1 filter might have a higher micron rating then another. Can anyone shed light on the situation? As I said I have already searched and read and still just don’t get it. That and different sources say different things. http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/D/2/D25708_o_1000.jpg
I don't know what engine you talking about...Ford, Dodge, etc... but I don't think it makes any difference where the filter is located relative to whether the oiling system is full flow or by-pass. I'd be as interested as you to hear from the experts on the subject..
an excellent observation. i have a flathead straight 226. 6 cyl. out of a 1958 Willys pickup. my understanding is that this engine is a continental.
I dont think the Continental 226 is any different than any other older style motor. When you put on a bypass filter, one of the fittings from the motor to the filter has to have a .020 restriction to keep pressure to the bearings. I would not use the adapter you show, that is for a full flow filter. I think the bypass canister may be much different inside.
Flatheads typically had an oil filter available as an option. The cheaper models had NO oil filter, the optional filter could be fitted by the dealer. This was called a bypass filter, it only filtered part of the oil but it filtered it very fine. It took 15 minute or half an hour for all the oil to go thru the filter. It had to be installed according to the factory instructions to make sure the oil went where it was supposed to, red hot or stone cold. If the filter was installed correctly it did no harm, it protected the motor from wear and extended the oil change intervals. Supposedly the newer full flow filters are better. But I would say, any filter is better than no filter. And if you drive on paved roads and change your oil and filter regularly, there should be little or no difference .
anyone got new advice this week. i actaully got the block back from the machine shop. gona start assembly soon.
It depends on if the original filter was a bypass or full flow system, like 'ol Don said. If it was a bypass system, it has a restrictor in it to keep most of the oil in the engine passages to keep up the pressure, and only a small portion goes through the filter. A bypass system dumps the filtered oil right back into the pan or rocker cover, and not into a pressurized galley. A full flow filter is installed in "series" with all of the oil flowing through it, and then having the outlet connected to the pressure galleys. Installing a full flow filter on an engine that is not designed for full flow means that the oil will take the path of least resistance, which will most likely be through the filter instead of through the engines bearings, etc. You'll be able to tell very quickly when you only have a couple of lbs of oil pressure. Can you post some pics of the original filter system? I'm in Shawnee, so might be able to come have a look in the next few days and have a look at it if you want, although I'd definitely prefer to see some pictures first.
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=will...nh=175&tbnw=224&start=0&ndsp=15&tx=117&ty=108 http://www.google.com/imgres?q=will...nh=175&tbnw=229&start=0&ndsp=15&tx=124&ty=129 http://www.google.com/imgres?q=will...nh=179&tbnw=235&start=0&ndsp=15&tx=130&ty=152 the links above are what the orginal oil canister looked like. they arent mine but pulled from the web. i just got my block from the machine shop today. so there is not much to see there. i will try to get pics of my hoses. i know that i was runnin decent oil pressure (when i had enough oil, my front and rear seals were toast. ) something like 35 lbs idle and more then that (dont remember the number) when under a load...im gona look at my pics. i dont remember if i had any fittings between the hoses and the block. i might have. Maybe those fittings ristricted the oil enough so the system had enough oil???
My 60 Willys wagon had the Continental engine in it and it had the by pass filter on it. I had the problem of finding filters for it. My 1946 Lincoln welder ( Cont.4 cylinder ) has the same filter setup on it. it's better than no filter. Lee
OK, that's a bypass setup, not a full flow. You can use the adapter you have with a spin-on filter, but you'll have to make sure that the restrictor is in the feed line to the filter. It sounds like it was still there when you installed the adapter (before the overhaul) since you had very good oil pressure at idle. Just install it like you had it before, and you should be fine. Even though that adapter is normally used for a full flow system, they can be used in a bypass system as long as the restrictor is in place to limit the flow to the filter. You had it right, put it back the way it was, and enjoy.
I think the filters, for old flatheads and such, are more for the benefit of the owner than the motor. The driving conditions and the oil is 10 times better than it was in 1930. The remote flathead cannisters should be plugged and chromed. Then fill them with as many "sawed off" tools as will fit!
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