I'm looking for input/opinions on replacing my '36 Ford helmet distributor with the following: Anything I should look out for (cam changes, fan interference, etc)? I've searched this forum and the barn and pieced together some info, but nothing real conclusive stating this would work and has been successful. I will be converting to 12volts, so any input on coils/etc (as well as solutions for coil mounting) would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.bubbasignition.com/about-us.html Points are nice, if they fail on the road you can usual fix it right there.
......uses Mallory replacement parts..... That sounds to me that it was made in a back alley shop and not Mallory. How good is the machining and attention to tolerances, are the bushings any good, and how about the advance mechanism? Saxon is right, contact Bubba.
Also,some of the new electronic ignitions won,t work with a generator as they require more amps than a generator can provide
My 42 runs perfect on points. Some things really don't need improving on. I sold a really cool old shovelhead a few years back. About 2 weeks went by and the guy called and asked me if I knew anything about electronic ignitions. I said no, the one I sold you had points. He said he changed it but now it wasn't running. I asked why he changed it. He said so it would be more dependable. :/ ** side note: Id be willing to bet that NOBODY's electronic ignition will be working fine in 75 years.
Get a '37-41, preferably a '42 with "11A" stamped on rear of shaft. Clean and lube shaft, especially where cam moves, and advance mechanism. Buy some GOOD points like echlin. Have coil rebuilt, or get coil and condenser from GOOD supplier from a '56-62 Ford...or 55 if 6V. Decent points need a glance once a year in heavy daily use. Aftermarket electronics, and anything made by Mallory since about 1970, are pretty dodgy items.
Don't get me wrong, I'm a fan of points....the '50 on my avatar uses points. To everyone's point, they are reliable and work well. One of the reasons I was looking for another option was due to the accessibility of the points on these helmet distributors. Right now I've got the front end off the car, so it's not too bad....but once it's back together...my word, I don't know how you would get in there to do anything.
Bruce, Does the '42 distributor with 11a require a cam change? Also, my helmet is 3 bolts and I believe the crabs are two (based on what I've been able to determine). What changes would be needed to make the '42 dizzy work?
If you use a '42 crab distributor you can pop it off with two bolts and one small nut to check the unit on your workbench. Then replace it back in the car and snap the cap back on. And you will have lots more room for wires and fanbelts than you did with the helmet distributor. Using the '42 distributor in a '36 will require a small spacer/adapter since the '36 cam is a different length than a '42 cam. Check out VanPelt's for that piece. And Bubba's for the distributor.
To remove the dizzy when the car is assembled, I find it easier to go from the underside of the car. You just need to turn the dizzy 90 degrees to fish it out.
I was writing about '41 11A, which is a bolt on helmet type with better advance and points than the 36. '42 21A crab type uses same points and advance and is easier to work on than the 11A helmet, requires a simple adapter that both hooks it up to your 3 bolt caver and moves it out 3/8" or so to fit early cam.
A sorting out of Ford hardware: The cams used in '32-48 Flatheads can be divided into 2 types, LONG ones used in '32-6 and '37-41 flavors and SHORT ones used 1942-48. Ford eventually supplied the short ones for all replacement needs, and supplied a little adaptor button that lengthened short to long to make things work. Button is still supplied by all the resto parts places. The difference between shot and long is around 3/8 to 1/2 inch, entirely in the nose that drives the distributor. Because of the replacement part use, many engines you think have long cams actually have short cam with button...if you remove distributor, you can grab the cam nose with pliers and pull to see if there's a button! Use of short cam distributor models on a long cam engine just requires a spacer, and the distributor adapters fill that role. Ford distributors: Earliest 1932, patented under Mallory's name...100% recall, essentially extinct, there are maybe 2 known survivors. Regular 1932...rare and expensive, functionally not really different from '33-36. 1933-1936, common as dirt. Model 40, almost all have rear drive stamped 40B, indicating best advance model. 3-screw domed coil. 1936 Model 68...flat-top round coil (hard to find), the points used and the "68" stamped advance were used in '37-40 distributors. Oddball half-breed but not a problem mechanically. 1937-40 Model 78. All new but very similar to older stuff. Uses points (used from 1936-1948 actually) from the 68 and same advance with "68" stamped on rear of drive. 2-screw coil. Parts easier to get than the earlies. 1941 Model 11A...same as above, except has the excellent 11A advance, quicker and longer than earlier models, same advanced used until 1948. 11 on the drive. These '37-41's have 4 mounting holes, different patterns of 3 used on big engines and V8 60's. 1942-8 are same distributor body and works, the '42-wartime with flat crab cap, the '46-48 with a fat cap system that cured wet problems of the '42. Swapping cap, clips, and rotor allows either kind to be built on same body. The '42's ventilation system could not keep up with condensation, the late cap cured the prob. These all use the 11A advance mounted on a shorter main shaft, same points as '36 68, 78, and 11A. These '42-8's are by far the easiest to work on...there small size allows them to be dropped off the motor in 30 seconds for simple tuneups and timing. These are the distributors meant for use with the short cam and no adaptation. They require the spacer/adapter mentioned above to use on all the helmet distributor motors. These are by far the easiest flathead distributors to use because all parts for tuning are available from respectable sources and the open design makes them easy to work on. See other threads on here on the adaptation of the '36-48 Lincoln V12 helmet as a dual coil distributor for V8's, a job that will delight lunatic tinkerers!
Even if God forgets to come get me and I'm still alive 75 years from now I don't think I am going to give a crap if my electronic ignition is still working on my flathead.
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