Technical Flathead blower intake casting

I just picked up a friend's project. It is a casting pattern that is partially finished. He doesn't have time to deal with it and knows that I can make it work and sell them through my buisness. It is a flathead blower intake manifold that will have a flat plate attached to it to adapt to any blower.

I will be working on this along with another pattern for a hemi blower water crossover. All he wants in return is one for his hot rod. So I will post progress as I finish it and work out all the details.

 

Badass. That's the ticket, at least he's stand up and knows you have the patience to perfect and produce a product for mass sales. It's nice to hear your gunna cut him in on it. Too cool dude.

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

That's what it's all about, collective ideas and helping each other with the talents we have been blessed with. All while supporting the hobby/sport of hot rodding.

 

Looks to be limited to a v-belt drive since there is no room for a pop-off valve. Another consideration is it adapts a blower to the late, radiator hose forward '49-'53 heads easier than the earlier block and heads. Early heads will need the hose barbs modified to clear the mounting plate.
None of this is a bad thing, it will still fill a need and a true rodder can and will make it work. The 1-800-chk-book guys not so much.

 

Looks good, but to late for me. Various parts and pieces of mine are at a buddy's machine shop to be turned into a flathead blower manifold. I'll be watching to see where yours goes.

Couple of suggestions:

Make sure you get a good mockup with early and late blocks and heads. Those pesky coolant outlets make for some tight fits. For mine, with a 4-71 blower, my options are to prune the blower case and plate for the early heads, or leave them be and run the late heads.

And as previously stated, look for a good place to put a pop-off valve. you don't need much more than a few square inches of flat area to put something.

 

This was originally designed to have an adapter plate on top to use whatever blower on. The blower that is slated to go on my friends is a 4-53 GM unit comparable in size to the B&M 144 unit. he will have to make new end plates with sealed bearings as these were engine oil lubricated. I have a 6V-53 blower that I might check the fit on but it might be a bit long for the manifold. It also would need to be driven at about 1:1.

 

Super cool!

 

Here is a picture with my 6V-53 GM blower sitting on the pattern to get an idea of size. The 4-53 blower is about 5-1/4" shorter.

 

Getting the pattern smoothed out.

 

How do you form the inner cavities? Is there a separate mold that gets used to form internal passages in sand?

Steve

 

I have a pattern for a flathead blower manifold that was made during the '50s. I see you don't have any provision for a popoff valve.

 

For now I am just going to cast one too test that the pattern is long enough for the shrink that happens when you cast metal. I asked my friend about a pop off valve as he had not Incorporated one into the design. The port's will be bored on the first one if it works but I will end up making a core for the inside of the intake for production.

 

This is where a core comes in. The inner passages are made in a core box with sand that has a special binder in it that is activated by CO2 that is introduced through ports in the core box. After it is activated the core box is opened and the core removed ready to be placed in between the two halves of the sand mold. The core must be held in place that is why there are soft plugs in engine blocks, that is where the core protruded into the sand of the mold.

 

The pattern finally got painted so next time I get down toward the foundry I will drop it off. I plan on getting a picture of it tomorrow and will post it.

 

Yes please!

 

Painted black.

 

Have you gotten any further on this? Havn't seen anything posted recently.

 

When it got painted somehow the paint never hardened so it was still tacky. Not so good for sand casting. So it has been at the paint shop and got repainted on one side but also got damaged and had to be repaired. The painter is clueless about how sand casting works but I think he now understands that any imperfections will be in the part that is cast. I unfortunately work for this guy and am constantly trying to do right for the customer. What a battle, I will get on him to get it done hopefully this week.

 

plain old silver paint is what works best.

 

Thanks, I will see about doing it that way with silver paint.

 

any update? looks cool. Interested.