Yea Tom it is always a pleasure to yak with you guys at Eagle in fact it is a pleasure for me to yak with anyone........
Looking good! Keep on crankin! This is gona be fun! Hope to meet you some day Carl. Br Kjell ..................................... Taildragger&fenderless
Well its been a shitty week, the computer went down and its taken a week to get all the bugs out. Did get the valve seats ground and the block pressure tested and sealed so it looks like ifn I can get the block cleaned out this week its almost time to assemble some of this pig. Of course I still have some head work to do but that is for another time......
Great reading here! It took quite awhile but I got through it - like a good book that you just can't put down. Looking forward to the next chapter!!!
Question, why is it everything you do requires things you didn't think of?.... Humm send cam off to be ground, humm build box to send it off..... Insert cam in box send off to Pete...... Now on to the next steps, make my own cam bearing insert tool and quit borrowing my buddies.......Tomorrows project............
Okay - let us in on the cam . . . what profile are you going to have ground and by whom? If you need any valve work, let me know . . . be happy to help out. B&S
Pete One is doing the cam to Potvin 425 specs Dale,(left today) thanks for the offer but I have already taken care of the valves......
Well Dale I have been trying to talk a buddy of mine out of his Howard M14 (I ran an M8 for years and loved it) but I gave up on that he just wants to keep it under his bed????? go figure..... so anyway its off to Petes to let him work his magic on it, can't wait to hear this thing make smoke........
Such an inspiring thread! Carl, what are those cylinders in your intake ports for? Your gonna have to explain it to me.
1st I'm not a professional Dragster Builder but I've had great luck building my axles by putting the "drop" in my axles needed for ride hieght then using in my builds a stock F-1 Ford axle as a jig (width seems good). Hope that helps, Rocky
Kisam: Carl, what are those cylinders in your intake ports for? Your gonna have to explain it to me. They are the stone holders for my valve seat grinder, they are in the intake ports for ease of use while I was doing the seats........ Yea Roc I am a glutton for punishment I guess........ Mr Slingshot: Thanx for the kind words, and Roc did a great job on the front axle on the Evil Twin see his thread: about half way down the thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=533613&highlight=roseville+carl&page=29
Thanks Buddy we are trying to get it done by the first of the year, my new years present to myself...... Spent today making a cam bearing tool, tired of borrowing my buddies,
Spent today doing some more valve work..... Then spent some time on the springs, getting ready for the cam which should be in this evening oh boy am I waiting for that!!!
Well the postman showed up today and am I happy. Thanks Pete1 looks great!!...........now on with the program!!!!!
Hey Carl: Not to stick my nose in (but here goes!) - is the valve face seat you were showing "complete" or a work in process? Hopefully I'm not over-stepping my bounds, but here are a couple things to note (probably preaching to the choir) You should at least two-angle the valve face seating area - to reduce the head thickness, weight, etc.. Sometimes I use 3 angles - just depends on the valve. If you're running 45 degree angles on the seats (looks like it), then back-cut with a 30 degree angle. If you're running a 37 or 30 degree intake seat angle, then adjust your back cut accordingly. Lots of old-time flathead racers ran their intakes with a 30 degree angle and a 15 - 20 degree back cut. Note: If you want me to grind and post some flathead valve pictures, just let me know. Here are some basic numbers for face seat widths (everybody has their own opinion!). a) Exhaust - Seat Face Area: I normally put about a .090 to .100 wide seat area (on the valve) - then set the seat width in the block to about .050 to .060 or so. Center the seat in the valve (on exhaust) - you get it too close to the edge and it will want to burn. b) Intake - Seat Face Area: I put about a .060 to .080 wide seat area (on the valve) - then set the seat width in the block to about .040 or so. Put the seat contact area (in the block) close to the edge of the valve - leaving about .010 or so. c) Valve Head Thickness - Margin: I like to have .040 to .060 on the intakes and .060 to .080 (can even be a bit more) on the exhausts. You need some head material to cool the valve and the wider seats on the exhausts help as well. Sometimes these numbers are tough to hit on old/used valves - the intake is normally less of an issue (as it stays cooler) than the exhausts, but don't get the exhaust valves too thin - the seat area will burn. If the ones you're trying to use are already thin . . . find some more! Here is a non-flathead valve picture - for those who may not know what 'margin' refers to: Also, the seat finish looked quite rough - hopefully you valve grinder can put a better finish on than the picture depicted. (Heck, you may not have ground them yet!). If you need any valve work, just let me know - can always fit you in among my various projects. I always hand lap my flathead valves (fine compound only) - then once I install them (with springs), I pour some lacquer thinner into the port (tipping the block on the stand) - to see if any of them 'weep' - usually you'll find a couple. Normally you can just go a little more fine lapping and correct it. If not - time to redo the valve and/or seat.
Dale it is still a work in progress, haven't finished grinding yet I use a three angle job with 30 seat on the intakes and 45 on the exhausts and I also hand lap them in, that was just the lathe work on the bottoms ............. So much to do but I do have nothing but time!!!...........
Dale, actually I also run an interfearance fit on my valve jobs 44 on the valve 45 0n the seat............
Na don't stay quiet as there are guys who haven't done any of this before, and I don't care how old we get we can always learn something. Something about paying it forward works for me.
I'll chime in! Thanks Bored and Stroked. That's some info I wasn't aware of, and I'll store it for later. Keep up the great work Carl!
See Dale thats why ..........we need to educate and help all out there who believe the world is flat....... maybe thats why I am keeping on with this thread......someone once said to me "if you live long enough everything comes back in style" guess I've lived long enough as now its great to help the younger generation feel the joy of running a flattie, and impart what little I know about them.......pay it forward.....but enough of this soapbox its back into the garage for me........
Thanks guys, allways stuff to learn about Flatheads! This is why i love the HAMB! Br Kjell .............................. Taildragger&fenderless
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