Finally got to get a few more hours in. Seems like they are getting farther and farther apart. I am sure everyone feels that way though. I built the rear kick up I am using a high arch rear spring, for a few different reasons. Everything is just tacked together for now, until I can get the axle under it to make sure everything is at the right height. I was definitely a little nervous start this part but I like the way it is coming together. I took out a little pie cut to get the upper arms back to parallel before the kick up. And this is how it sits today. All joints will be getting fish plates once I weld everything up, it is just tacked together for now.
I got cracking on the rearend. I cut up the brackets for the 4 bar. Not much of an update because they are not on the car yet but it is something. They are made of 1/2" plain carbon steel. and this is what they will look like over and under the axle.
I would rethink the yokes for the 4 link. Not only will they be loud and ride rough, I would be surprised if they didn't fail very quickly. They dont have any allowance for twist in the joint, which would add to the rough ride and may break when the axle twists in the car - going into a parking lot for example. If you wanted that look, you MIGHT be able to get away with machining and installing a bushing in the housing bracket. Otherwise, cool build.
Could you explain a little more. I am not quite sure what you mean. Are you saying you thing the Clevis will break? Definitely open to some suggestions. I thought the reason a set up like this would work is because it allows to move up and down just not front to back. While still allowing a lot of adjustment for ride height and adjustment on how the rear end bites.
kamp is right, having a rubber bushing in the 4link your building will help with NVH all around. when he says he's saying like when you make a right hand turn into an inclined driveway your suspension will need to squat on one side and raise on the other. having a solid mount like a clevis there's no means for allowing that to happen, there is no rubber bushing to allow for any give. also a bushing will help with road bumps and when you stand on the gas and let off. it just helps absorb the shock, like how a taller tire rides better than a low profile one, but the clevis's still look cool tho.
I have not made the part of the set up that attaches to the chassis yet. So I still have time to change it up a little. I would still like to keep the brackets I have made now. So I will keep the Clevis Clevis' on the axle side and use tubing mount with a rubber bushing on the other side. Anyone have a source for the rubber bushing you have used in the past. I guess I can just pick up some rubber from McMaster and cut my own.
Well it has been 2 months since I have got to lay a hand on my build but today I finally got a couple hours booked in between the kids and the wife. Nearly finished cleaning the rear end and I tacked up the spring hangers. I think I will need a shorter spring because when I bounce on it the spring bumps the hanger. but I am happy to make a little progress, and finally a couple new pics. I know it does not look like much compared to my old man's '37 RR in the background but it's mine. and a couple pics of how the rear sits under the kick up.
Nice work Kev, it sure has come along since I saw you last. Yes you will need to shorten your rear spring. Is the spring over the diff or behind it? I am assuming over from the pic's. If you go behind it, then you will not need to shorten it so much if at all, plus it will give you a little extra free space as the rear cross member could be positioned further back and it will lower the rear a little as well. Just my 2 cents while I am out of arms reach!!!
DAMN, Kevin, it's looking good! Not to be critical, and it just may be my preferance, but in the pics it appears the axle needs to go back an inch or so, so that the tire is framed evenly by the fender radius. Or, maybe that's not what you want! edit: After looking at the other side a little more, it appears that I was wrong and it's already as I suggested?
These are 42-48 Ford backing plates not 39-41. The early ones have dual cam shoe heel adjusment bolts at the bottom and the the later ones, these, have fixed studs.
It is a spring over, after mocking it up a bit I think I might tuck the tank behind the spring. So I want to leave it over if it can work out. Can you make a spring shorter or do I need a new leaf? No you are right, in the picture it is off, but the tires are just sitting there- the axles are not in the rear yet. Plus you can see the body is also sitting off the frame a bit in the rear. That is because the fender well is hitting the axle right now, but I could not resist putting the body on to see how it will sit. Everything will be lined up just right by the time I finish. Well that is the plan at least. Thanks for the info, I am not going to use them in my build after all, but it was fun to do.
Kevin, you can just shorten the main leaf. Calculating by how much is usually the problem. The other thing is to reference the main leaf with the 2nd leaf to ensure they remain roughly relative to each other and the 2nd leaf does not become too long or bind into the shackle when installed. A blacksmith/spring setter should be able to advise you on exactly how much you will need. If you email me your spring details and the space between the centers of your perch holes, I will be able to give you a good indication of how much to consider taking off. The other trick is to have the spring reset as it is if the distance between standard and your new perches is not too much as the reset will pull the ends of the spring in. The problem with these kind of old style springs is that a reset may raise the ride height, similarly shortening the main leaf has the potential to lower the ride height. Scary is'nt it!!! Some times a combination of the two tasks maybe required. Your 2nd leaf will play a part in moderating the changes.
Russell sorry I missed your calls I was at the lake with the family celebrating a little late fathers day. I will pull the spring off so I can take some measurments. Because I need all the info and help I can get. On that note does anyone have a good spring guy in southern California?
No worries Kev, I will try calling you again thru the week. Try and get me the measurement between the center of your spring shackles when resting parallel to your diff which would be the really the same as your spring eyes center to center measurement when installed on the diff. When I call you I will explain the rest then.
Nice idea using a front spring perch. Expect a 5"+ drop on the front end with that 900# beast unless your front spring is beefy? I'm looking forward to more progress!
So know I am working on the spring. Here is the little spreader I made. Quick Easy and Ugly but it does the job. Russell here are the measurements I took from my set up. There are 10 springs and the pack is about 2.5" tall at the top. Any advice is appreciated. I am a little worried because I like and planned for the ride height where it is now. But the spring hits the hanger if you bounce on it.
Russell good talking to you just now I really appreciate it. I just called the spring shop and they mentioned something that made sense. Since I can mount the spring the way it is now with no interference unless I jump up and down on the chassis. They suggested building as much of the car as I can to get as much of the actual weight as I can (including the engine). Then make the adjustments to the spring. I like that method because it means I can keep moving with the spring the way it is now. The sooner I can bring this project home and away from my work the sooner I can really dig in and put in some quality hours. So I think I will do the method you were talking about on the press but I will do it a bit down the road.
Hey Kevin, I know your not this far along yet, bhut what steering wheel and column setup are you using? Think I've got an extra wheel, that's pretty cool, if you need one.
Buddy I have not nailed anything down yet but have been keeping my eye out for something just right. I think I am leaning towards a cowl set up though. Send me an email with what you have in mind.
Got to put some time in on Friday. I cleaned up the rear axles and pressed on some new bearings, the old ones sure wanted to be a part of this project and did not want to let go. But a little persuasion on the hydro-press and off they came. Here they are cleaned up. You are looking at a real genius though. I cleaned up and put back on the bearing retainer plate before reading the assembly procedure for my rear disc brakes (which does not use the bearing retainer plate) so I got some more practice at pressing on and off a pair of wheel bearings. But I am back on track. Here is a shot of my spring spreader, typical I guess but i am glad it worked. I have seen a couple pics of them folding up on here.
IT'S A ROLLER BABY!!! Never mind the 2x4 under the body I have a little more work to do making the tires work, but they will. And finally for this update at last it is put together enough to take it home. It will look like a real downgrade when you see how tight my garage is but now I can work on it at night when the kiddos and wife are asleep, which means I can start putting in a bit more time (hopefully).
Free bump and an attaboy! I'm really diggin the stance, and can't wait to see the mill! You need some of those tank heads that say 'Cadillac', to stir the pot a little!
The Jalopy Journal
