Projects Finally My '26 Chevy Roadster Build

Aluminum can be cut with woodworking saws, a chop saw would work perfectly, but the magnetic will most likely be steel, so probably best to use a lower RPM cold cutting saw if you have access to one. Either way since yours are magnetic (although you said aluminum, I think all of the cases are aluminum, make sure on the center that it is metal or glass). Both can be cut down, just that the glass are a tad more difficult.

A slitting saw on a horizontal mill would probably work well.

 

"use a lower RPM cold cutting saw if you have access to one." Like a hack saw? It said in the listing that they could be cut. If they choose not to say how then they can replace them until I figure it out.

 

No, I was thinking like an Evolution (S380CPS), I think they spin about 1450 rpm or something like that and use a carbide tipped blade. They call them cold saws as you can literally grab the metal and it's not hot just after cutting (cold to the touch). Fein makes one, as does Milwaukee and Makita, AFAIK. For magnetic that is what I would use. For glass I would see what others have cut them with. People have definitely cut down the glass ones.

 

I've never heard of them. I'll look around.

 

Metal cutting band saw would also work. Thin cutoff wheel in an angle grinder would probably also work. Lots of ways to skin that cat. I have an Evolution, it's indispensable, IMO, for welding any types of frames using miters you can go from saw to welding They cut dry. Car folks tend to use an angle grinder to get a nice fit. If you have a horizontal band saw that flips up with a small table, that would work fine also. But there is one thing about the cold cutting type metal saws...they cut square when setup correctly. Band saw will depend on the operator.

 

It's probably only 3 cuts. A hacksaw or a cut off wheel will be fine.

 

Indeed a regular hacksaw would work fine. I can usually get a pretty square cut if I mark with a square and use a cutoff wheel, just not as bullet proof like the Evo. Portaband would do it.

 

I just got the last sparkle for my engine. I've been looking for one of these that I could afford for years so I broke down and got one I could not afford.

 

It looks great! After so many years of looking, you just can't help your self!!!!!! How is the build coming?
Be Careful, Have Fun!

 

Slick

 

I'm getting engine pieces painted and am almost ready to assemble. Working on small parts. Still fighting myself for shop space. It's mostly taking place in my mind. I keep going back and looking at the wood & pictures and am much less intimidated. I want to build off the frame from the sills up so I have a couple of things to do to the frame when I get the "feeder line" little pieces off of the chassis table. I bought an aluminum radiator for a '32 Ford high boy and I think it is going to fit the '26 shell very well. The bottom mount will need to be built but aI can do that. That is waiting for the front crossmember install as well.
I went to a friend's celebration of life yesterday and found out that his last request of me was to help his son finish the pickup he'd been picking at for at least 20 years. The son is game but clueless. His skills lie elsewhere. I need to go down and see what is left to do and help the family identify what they have before the buzzards arrive. A bunch of cool old Chevy six & pickup stuff for sure. They will have a auction in the spring.

 

Nice grab Six Ball is that two peice cover? I see it was not made with a seal stop/flange area.

 

Thanks. Yes, it is two a piece. I haven't tried to fit a seal in it yet but there isn't any machining in the bore. The lettering is a little messed up too. Someone took a little too much off of the the right side when cleaning up the casting. I can fix it a little and live with the rest.

 

Maybe that was a vibrating line rubbing it over the years...no 3 wishes just worn lettering...Part of the soul...circa?

 

Sounds good! I am in the same boat as far as shop space, just have to watch that I do not trip and fall! That radiator sounds great. I know that the original 26 Chevys are hard to find! I may have to go the same direction as you on my next build. I still have not got the tractor out to get my 26 frame in for wood building, but still planning to. Have wood strewn allover (not finished)(trip hazard) Hope you have good luck with your friends son and his build!

 

The 32 Ford seems very close and since it is just an aftermarket aluminum thing it doesn't technically break the "no Ford Parts" rule. I hope to get out today to get some radiator pictures and make a couple of small cuts that will let me do more measuring for the brackets for the shell to radiator mounts. I can not tell yet if the cap will clear my hood. A few weeks ago I helped my son take down a RV shed to use for his shop. 40'x32' If we can get it back up an LOT of the stuff in my shop will move there. Then he can trip over it.
Meanwhile notes to self: A dozen things to do.
1. Assemble engine
2. Finish Intake & exhaust manifolds
3. Rebuild carbs & linkage
3. Modify & assemble transmission
4. Install front crossmember & one spring perch (rivets)
5. Build rear crossmember.
6. Prep & mount front springs
7. Mount steering box and play with front axle & steering linkage see how what is in my head fits reality.
8. Modify axle if needed assemble whole front end & steering
9. Make main wood sills so I can locate firewall. Probably need cross sills & rear sill.
10. Finish radiator & shell mounts & locate radiator.
11. Measure for & build motor & trans mounts
12. Make more notes

 

One bite at a time. Lol need to attach a little fork to your shop keys

 

OK, I spent a couple of hours in the shop and some of it fitting the radiator to the shell. First I took a few pictures to show measurements & the bottom mount plates. Core is 16 3/4" wide & 20"high-perfect! Well, 17 would be perfect. Over all height is 25 1/2 and width of the bottom mount plates is 20". That is too wide to fit inside the shell. I trimmed 1/2" from each side. I was able to get it in but I think another 1/8" off each side & rounding the corners will be better. The core fits the size of the shell reveal very well. And I am good with that. The bottom piece of my shell is rusted out and I'll have to make a patch. There are two layers of metal there and one of them is riveted in place I can do some tweaking here. The top tank is not quite the right shape and rubs on the shell, I can fix it. The cap won't work as is. I may move it to the top like the original one. The problem then is gettin a pressure cap fitting through the hole in the shell & getting an overflow tube in place. The fins of this radiator areVERY "delicate" and no doubt bugs will make a mess of them. I really don't see this radiator making it through my heavy handed techniques but I'll have something that will fit have a tougher one made if needed. It will be good enough use for the build. Sorry for the fuzzy pictures my camera thought the radiator was Dina Shore. It feels good to get some of this out of my head and have something I can see.

 

Boy, that is close! Can the filler have a 45 degree angle to move it back and to the left?

 

That might be possible. I might be able to lower it 1/4"-1/2" and back and left. There are some pieces on eBay that might help get it a little lower. I thought of making a fixture on top that a filler neck could screw into so it would fit the hole in the shell. I may have to massage the front of the top tank. I'll try to get back out there tomorrow.

 

Darn close- thank you for doing the leg work on this Six Ball!!!

 

Re your radiator, at work we have used a piece of perforated sheet in fron of an Aluminium core, if you squint only a little it passes off as a honeycomb core. Just a thought...

 

I've looked at some honeycomb mesh and that might be an option. I'm trying to avoid things that look like other things. If I could find a GOOD '26 Chevy radiator I'd use it. If I have to put something in front of the radiator it will more than likely be an aftermarket guard and I don't like them either. I'm not used to running cars with an exposed radiator so I'm unsure here. Since I have collected these parts over many years major expenses have been covered. That money is gone! So if I have to use this $120 radiator as a model to have copied for a different stronger one I'm ok with it. Maybe one with a honeycomb core. For that I could maybe have the '29-'30 I have rebuilt to these specs. At any rate this '32 Ford is close and maybe some of the other aftermarket '32s might even fit better. If the bottom if my shell was not rusted out it might not fit. With all TIG welds this thing can be modified at home. And then there is this. The honeycomb version doesn't have a price listed but they make them.
https://thebrassworks.net/products/1926-chevy-radiator

I also saw my cabinet maker friend today and his business is so slow he asked about the wood part if the build. I'm going to take what GG2 and I have put together so far and let him see if he wants to play with some of it. If we can feed the right measurements into his CNC machine........?

 

View attachment 5228165 View attachment 5227991 View attachment 5227992 View attachment 5227993 I looked at more radiators on line and think there was a better choice as far as the filler cap goes. There is one with the same measurements but hose connections are different. The top hose is far to the right. Using an inline connector with a cap I could move the cap to a place with more clearance and still be high enough to avoid cavitation. It may be possible to do the same with the one I have.



Just got in from little shop time. I made some protective covers for the core. They may help. I did a little more fitting on the bottom mounts just rounding the front corners helped. I think I can narrow it another 1/8" and still be able to use 5/16' or 1/4" bolts to mount. I need to remove some rivets and take the rusted corners out. I think I'll be able to use the stock mounting holes in the crossmember and make all look good. Someday.

 

I ordered this.

How does the stock overflow tube work. I don't think these were pressure systems but it looks like it would be constantly blowing water out throughout the tube. Does it enter the tank and run up by the filler neck?

 

***Was in shop so checked----- I was wrong with my first statement!

 

Yes-the tube goes right up nearly to the cap.

 

Just checking in.

 

Also checking in. Any progress?

 

Nope! I've been doing a lot but none of it getting the roadster further along. My wife's Jeep lost four wheel drive just before the last storms. It's been a couple of weeks and we hope to get it back today with a new transfer case. Working on clearing the road to get a propane truck in between storms. Packing the shop with more junk. Trying to decide how I want to paint the timing cover & intake manifold. No wood or chassis work. Need to get help from my son on the exhaust manifold. Not getting as many components assembled as I'd thought. But I'm alive and kicking'. That is better than some of the options.