Projects FED with killer Flathead

Thanks guy's!

Small stuff was done today also.
The injector is a Hilborn 2-port, that i bought from a guy in Australia, came from one of "terrible" Ted Gotelli's gassers, it has number 131 stamped inn it. I have not messured it, but vill as soon as i go back to the garage.

The scoop came on a deal that a good friend did a couple of weeks ago.
He bought a Hilborn 4-port with both the original scoop, and this one.
It has a modified base, to fit the 4 port, but he thought it was to short for it, so i ended up buying it.
I think it's a Enderle? Any other suggestions?

My friend has done some buying latly, both a car, blower parts, pluss some other stuff, came from HAMB classified!
HAMB is the BEST!
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Taildragger&fenderless

 

I don't think anything looks better on an 2 or 4 port Hilborn injector than a Hilborn scoop. I believe that Hilborn still makes this 2-port 4-71 injector -- you should be able to buy a new scoop from them. I bought a new one for my 4-71 two port and a new 6-71 four port about 2 years ago . . . seems they were around $200 each.

 

A litte uppdate!

Engine block is now finished.!?
But as allways, there are some issues. One big for the moment is the crank, but my very good friend here, B&S has come to rescue me
Hope to have this sorted out soon, but the result will take some time.

Anyways, i just have to make the best of it, so i will continue working on other details The cocpit erea is staring to look desent, made a new dash with stearing support and guage placement.

Also almost ready to paint body, as i did some grinding and hammering yesterday!


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

lookin good Fenderless.......................

 

Kjell, can you tell us what the crank issue is, and is the problem easily fixed?

 

Well i have some issue with the crank, rods don't fit!

I have't brought this up here, because i am now in a dialog with the guy.
Hope to get some kind of solution soon.

And again, our very good friend B&S has helped me alot with this issue! I have sendt him some word just now, after talking with the "guy"!

After everything started to look well, all parts in place and final assembly was due to start soon, i really hit the wall finding this out!

But i will try to motivate myself doing other stuff, final painting, pollshing...

And i will have to start on my wife's car soon to, the 49' need some rust repair and some other stuff before hitting the road

The modell A will have to wait this year!

Here' an idea 38Flattie, howe about slipping the Killer into the 49 Ford Cupe parts car for a team-up on the lakes?

I'll keep you updated!

Br
Kjell

 

Hmmm, 1949? We could run on the XXO/BGCC- 132.857 MPH!

Very doable record.

Get the car ready, and I bet we could make it happen....

 

Many bad words have come out of my mouth latly!
Who to blame, i will not convict anybody here, as of now!
I just knows what i know, and i have learned an expencive lesson!
I know that it's not easy to do everything correct and cover your ass from over here!

Enough said for now, time to look ahead!
I have gotten a good teacher now, B&S. So if everything works out, i will have a new set of rods from Crower in 5-6 weeks time.

Will spend my time doing other stuff on the rail!

OR

Start working on the 49 Box

...............................
Taildragger&fenderless

 

Hey Fenderless,
Just ran across this thread.....fits right in with what I'm messing around with now....."another Flathead FED".....whoooo hooooo.

I'm now suscribed.....keep up the good work, looking forward to your progress.

 

Thanks Skotz

What do you have??? Fill us inn..

I have been very busy with other stuff, allways alot to do when spring arrives!!
But have finally made som progress....
Grinder1 redid the pan, making it alot bigger, will now hold about 2 gallons.
I got to shoot som colour on the back-side of the bodypanels and block this evening.
Also got the inner/floor panel from the powdercoater ..
Hope to get the frame ready tomorrow, so somebody else can shoot it!

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Looks good Fenderless...........

 

Thanks Carl

Finished the frame today, just final prep before shooting-time

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

What a terrific project, really strikes a chord with me!
Fenderless, answering your questions of Jan 2. Being old, I sometimes forget to subscribe to great threads like this and hence rediscovered it today! Our chassis was of unknown origin. We were running a Fiat topolino altered with the flathead in it and were at NE drag way for a nostalgia event. Small flea market there and in come this chassis as a roller. Guy had received it in lieu of cash for a house painting job. Car originally had a narrowed early olds rear with Micky Thompson mag center section. We believe it to be early 60s, 135” wheelbase and cut down chromed ‘32 Ford spindles, probably just before the big movement to P&S dragster spindles. We put the 3 3/8 by 4 motor in it from the altered. Great chassis, went straight as an arrow. Found the chute pack body at a swap meet, fit right over the original tin work and we used the original tonneau cover snap screws to secure it on, pissah! We ran four strombergs, a Vertex, a mongrel cam, and used a Chevy 3 speed case, sans tail shaft, that had a factory bronze back plate sold aftermarket to allow ‘55 and up chevy three speeds to be installed in ‘49-’54 Chevys and not have to replace the torque tube rears with open driveshaft. So it made a really short trans and we ran Second and High. Car ran in the 12s with carbs, and went 11.77 with the hilborns and alcohol. All swap meet stuff, except the hilborns which were as cheap new as at New England swap meets.
As pictured on your thread, posted by SlickWilly, the new owner, Dick Kinsailus who lives on Cape Cod, was running a bigger motor. We are happy he has never painted over the DJ Louver Service logo on the tins. He bought Reggie B’s 3 ½ by 4 ¼ behemouth motor after Reg melted down the pistons on its debut. I was the push car driver that night and evidently the block fill material Reg used had wrong coefficient of expansion and as the motor heated up, the cylinders decreased in diameter the pistons melted down. Reg had used H-D sleeves if I remember on the overbore. Anyway Dick bought the motor, seeing as how the Kong heads were okay, the crank survived too. Note that Dick is running the car open block and uses forced ventilation after a run to cool things down. We ran captive water all the while, no water pumps with no problems, had moon temp gauges in each head.
Anyway keep pumping out the pics and build data, I am fascinated. Back in the early 90s we could put together a seven or eight car flathead dragster/altered field at NED. Those were the days.

 

Thanks olcurmdgeon

Kool story and innformation.
And as you can see, i can not check out the FED part just yet!
Sold grandpa's old moped today, so i can get my parts and go racing.

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Hello all.

A very good day ,today
My new Crower rods are being sendt tomorrow!
So now i hope to get this crank case out of my head

Took apart the blower yesterday, need to plug the two holes leading to the main housing. Had an small oil lead that i could not understand, but found out that the gasket compund did not like the alcohol.

Did some testing on the Sun blue-line water temp. guage today at work.
Have read some threads on the issue with sender.
The senders that i have (2Kohms cold state), don't match-up with the blue-line, as many have stated before.
Found out that i needed about ekstra 5K ohm's to get the guage to read room temp(low/0)
But when water temperature reaches about 200F, then it will read very low temp.
Instead of tracking down a sender, i tryed something diffrent.
I took a 12V to 6V converter (Sony car power for Handycam), and hooket it up with the sender that i have.
Almost Bingo!? Could live with the readings, but have to map it excactly so i don't melt down the Flathead!?

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

It's to make sure it trips the old Chrondeks. One wheel is actually slightly ahead of the other on some rails too... Same reason, the light gets blocked by both tires instead of just the closest one. Needed these tricks back when everyone was running those super skinny, small tires.

 

Think Whitey is from Witchita Kansas.
Here's a Valvoline ad from early 70's and a picture from 2006.

 

Water Temp Gauges: If it was mine, I'd use 'mechanical' gauges - I trust them a lot more than anything that has an electrical sender. Same with oil pressure - simple and reliable gauges make me happy

 

Well Dale, i love to put old stuff together, thats why i fell for the
blue-line's. They look soooo god with the lights in them!
Here is what i had in mind, the temp guage are just for monitoring right and left hand side of the engine by flick of a switch, the right temp will be monitored by my crewshief (Grinder1).
Oil pressure is a mechanical Sun Blue-line too, so thats abit more critical to follow up. I might even put a pressure switch on it with a bulb, just to be on the safe side. Dout that in see much at the top of the track.
(It's somewhat crouded inside the cockpit)!?
I have also a challenge with the tach with the Sun tach-box. The batteries innside it are dead, but i think i can make a external power-supply for the 2.7V needed.
Same as the oil pressure, i double-up with a shift-light!
What do ya think? Is it safe now?

Br
Kjell

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Hi guys!

I know there is not "happy days" for the moment, espesially for all the peoples and families struck by the tornado in Joplin.
So it's with mixed feelings that i say that i was a little glad when i finally got my Crower rods today!
Next up is sending bottom end for rebalancing!!

PS! honor all volunteers that helps out in Joplin!!

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Some progress today!
Made an appointment to rebalance monday.

Have a nice weekend!


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Kjell, that thing is looking wicked!

 

Great to see that the rods showed up and you're heading down the assemble the engine path! Keep us posted and make sure you take a video when you first fire the engine . . . I gotta hear it!

Dale

 

Thanks 38Flattie & Dale!

Yes, thanks to your recommendations Dale, i now seem to have solved the issue with the crank. They really look great, and strong too.
They are a litle bit heavier than the Scat's, 718grams.
can't seem to find te papers on the Scat rods, anyone have the weight on them?


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

hey Fenderless, just what was the problem with the crank and what type of crank, Rods ect. And what was the fix............Carl

 

Carl
let's say that i have learned my lesson, expencive thou,
but now things are looking bright, big smiles!

Kjell

 

great build...flatheads forever...

 

Thanks for the PM............................

 

After a small breake, we are now back on track

We started to mockup the valvetrain, and found out that we are gona need some serious shims to get to our innstall hight on the springs.
If my measurements are correct, we need a 0.255" shim, so we desided to make one solid intead of stacking.

Second challange is to get the adjusting bolts in the roller lifters all the way down!!? I don't want to do this when they are in the block, just final adjusting down there I think we will rethread the bots allmoust to the head, leave some of the old threads enought to lock them??

I have also started to wire it, some boxes are needed, sorry
Also want's lights in the Blue-line's

Kjell

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Just saw this. Nice car and the flathead is killer. Love the scoop. Lippy